ABS Removal 1299S

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Same thing happened to me with the CRG carbon shorty's. Had them on for a week. The difference wasn't huge, but I felt like I had a better feel with OEM. Swapped them back and sold the CRG's.
 
This seems pretty suspect.. just changing a lever shouldn't have much in the way of impact, unless said lever has more "flex" which might attribute to a spongier feel.

Does the CF CRG lever swap somehow mess with leverage ratio on the MC piston? I assume it is just a direct replacement for the stock lever, but perhaps I'm mistaken..

I agree it sounds suspect and wouldn't have believed it either if I wasn't there. It wasn't flex in the lever. Not sure if somehow the lever was pushing on the plunger oddly and creating air in the system? It was and still seems weird to me as well...
 
Chaotic, this may sound dumb but what levers are you using? Reason I ask is my friend was having serious fade and bleeding issues on his 1199R and seems that his CF CRG lever was contributing to his issue. Under warranty they replaced his MC and the issue went away and then he had his CF CRG lever put back on and the problem came back until he switched back to the stock lever again. Just a thought...

I originally had CRG CF on it also. Changed back to OEM and it didn't help anything.

We actually changed back because I wanted a remote brake lever adjuster mounted on the left bar, but the CRG levers won't accept one. So we had to go back with the OEM levers to put the remove adjuster on.

Unfortunately the brake feel/performance was unchanged.
 
Actually a good point from flobrandx!
BTW I had to replace the OEM brembo master cylinder (1x clutch on a M1200, 1x front brake on a 1199) because of "internal leaking problem" :(

Switching to brembo MCS or RCS isn't a bad idea, but expensive.

Funny thing is you find brembo RCS fakes from China for 60.- bucks. I already considered buying one just for fun and test how it works :)
 
I wouldn't put one of those fakeass "Brembo" things on my bike, no way.

They are NOT Brembo, not even close. Poor materials and craftsmanship, no attention to tolerances, QC is non-existent.

When it comes to something like decals, or tank pads, or wrist bands for the reservoir, sure why not. But there is no way I would use any of that cheapass Chinese ........ on my bike when it comes to think involved in actually controlling the motorcycle (levers, MC, etc).

Way too many horror stories out there of crashes being caused by them. Some brand-based forums even have "stickies" with several links of said crashes as a warning to others.
 
Been racing my 1299 in the twin class for 5months, my Ducati dealer upgraded the lines, replaced the brake fluid and pads prior to supplying the bike.
I ride with the ABS off and I can say the brakes are great no fade not a problem.
Carnt see the point in bypassing the ABS when you can adjust/turn off in different conditions
 
Chris, the way all those systems work (ABS, TC, WC) is the phonic wheel mounted to both wheels. The system senses differences in wheel speed between front and back by reading the phonic wheel. I know it would still be able to sense those differences because all you have done is rerouted the path for the brake fluid to the calipers. However, I don't know if the other systems would still work properly. Maybe Jarel could answer this.
 
Chaotic the 1299S is a tough one because the brakes and semi active DES works in conjunction with each other along with the 3 axis gyro. I would imagine you would have to turn off the dynamic suspension which you probably did since you are racing it. Also you will lose corner lean ABS. The TC and WC will continue to work. Leave pump in, cap off the lines and run new brakes lines from MC to calipers you should be good to go.

I had to adjust the little push rod further out on the CRG Carbons to get better modulation with the lever adjusted to my liking when I swapped to them on my 1199, 1299S and Panigale R. after that I had no problems with modulation.
 
I was talking to a guy who runs a Superstock team using Panigales and he said they have a method to remove the ABS on the R. I'll need to go back to him for details as it wasn't straightforward and we were discussing a bunch of other things at the time.
 
Carnt see the point in bypassing the ABS when you can adjust/turn off in different conditions

Because just turning it off doesn't eliminate the many places the fluid had to go and all the places air bubbles can hide.
 
Chaotic the 1299S is a tough one because the brakes and semi active DES works in conjunction with each other along with the 3 axis gyro. I would imagine you would have to turn off the dynamic suspension which you probably did since you are racing it. Also you will lose corner lean ABS. The TC and WC will continue to work. Leave pump in, cap off the lines and run new brakes lines from MC to calipers you should be good to go.

I would be completely ok with that. I don't use the Dynamic suspension and have ABS turned off anyway.

So if I could somehow get definitive confirmation that plugging the ports on the ABS unit and running lines directly from the MC to the calipers would let me retain fully functioning TC and WC, that is what we will do.

The problem is that we have to KNOW it. I race multiple bikes and the mornings are hectic as is. I can't show up at the Grand National Finals, find out the plugging/rerouting has disabled the TC and WC, then expect Livengood to be able to strip the bike back down and return everything to OEM before the first race.
 
An old thread, but I have just done this on my 1299s race bike with no issues.

All I did was turn the ABS off in all modes and plugged the pump off and ran lines direct from master cylinder, brakes have a much better feel now on track.

The Orange ABS light remains on the left side of the dash which I believe this stays on anyway if ABS is turned off, but I get no 'error' codes and I don't want to turn ABS back on to find out if it throws any errors.

Now I just need to figure out how to bypass the DES without throwing any errors.

Cheers,

Mike.
 
Cheers for the post, it's good timing as I need to do this next week on the racebike! I really want to remove all the ABS junk completely but I'm yet to find a 'black box' for the 1299 / Panigale R line unfortunately. You can get the 1199 version from bikesportsdevelopements, I guess there are complications with the 1299/1199R models?
 
Yes that's correct Mick at BSD could not do the 1199R/1299 delete cause he doesn't have a bike to use to get the CAN info. A very small few of us have deleted the ABS electronically and the wire loom from the harness so its a big job and very tedius. Easiest thing to do which has been mentioned a lot is plug all the ports on the pump and go direct lines from the MC to the calipers.





Cheers for the post, it's good timing as I need to do this next week on the racebike! I really want to remove all the ABS junk completely but I'm yet to find a 'black box' for the 1299 / Panigale R line unfortunately. You can get the 1199 version from bikesportsdevelopements, I guess there are complications with the 1299/1199R models?
 

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