Engine off. For God's sake unplug the connectors at the top of the shock. Don't be that guy that twists the .... out of the wires. Big adjustable wrench, I just layered some electrical tape on the jaws to stop the tool marks. I still have to order a pair of nylon jaw ones.
You first need to measure the exposed portion of the fork with no load on the front wheel. This is easily done with one person and the bike on a kick stand, or even a headstock stand...the one with the knob that goes into the triple clamp, since there's no weight on the front.
On the kickstand just kneel down on the right side of the bike with it on the kickstand. Push up on the throttle side of the handle bar to leverage the weight of the bike onto the kick stand. This will cause the front tire to raise above the ground. Measure the exposed fork with a metric tape measure. Stand the bike upright so its weight is on the forks. Measure the exposed fork again. The first measurement minus this one is front static. Wrap a zip tie around the exposed portion of the fork and tighten it down. Nothing crazy, it should still be able to slide easily. Slide it up so its touching the fork seal. Gently get on the bike both feet off of the ground. Don't exert extra downward force. Now measure the top of the zip tie to the bottom of the exposed fork. The very first total exposed fork tube measurement minus that is front rider sag.
On bouncing it. There are a few different school of thought. I think its K-tech which teaches this averaging system where for one portion you don't bounce it, and the other you do and average them together. I'm a bouncer from way back. When you do this with a Slacker, you find that it doesn't really matter. The bike will settle in the same place. But bounce or no bounce the important thing is to be consistent in how you do it. Since every Dave Moss video show him bouncing the front when measuring sag, its what I do. It just doesn't work with the zip tie method as the extra downward force will move the zip tie more than the rider's weight would.
Slacker V4 is the ..... The only word of caution I would give to using it is to pick a good point on the rear. The subframe can flex as will the body work. I usually put the hook onto the edge of my license plate and zero the tool by lifting it using a towel run under the gas tank. You can do it just like the front and leverage the kickstand to get the rear off of the ground.
First sag is set for your weight, then your skill. The zip tie will tell you how much travel you are using under braking. If it gets near the bottom, you need more preload. As a baseline, front is 25-30mm static front with 35-40mm rider front. Rear is 10-15mm static with 30-35mm. You want a slight bias to the front, greater rider sag on front vs rear, with a sport bike.
