Adjusting front sag???

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Hahaha…I think I need to spend more time on the Peloton and less time on the Ducati lol

look how far I had to tighten down the spring to get 25 mm of sag WITH a 115 nm spring, the heaviest they make lol

How much do you guys think I should have them lower the rear end make up for that?

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What is your static sag with that much preload? You don't want it to be zero. Hitting a bump will bounce you out of the seat.

Unless you are really tearing it up on a track 25mm rear rider sag isn't very much. For street use and beginner track I'd look for that to be 35mm.

Right now I'm 28mm static and 40mm rider front with 12mm static and 35mm rider rear.
 
Just adjust using the preload nuts on the top of the fork and the preload adjuster on the rear shock. No need to turn the engine on. You will want to disconnect the electronic damping connectors on the forks before you turn the preload nuts. No need to disconnect the electronics on the rear though.

The sag process is pretty easy, you will want 2 people unless you have a digital tool like slacker. I have that tool and it’s awesome since I can read sag without a helper.

Good starting point for sag is 30mm total rear and 35 total front. I run mine lower on the track but this is an ok place to start.

To sag it, you will sit on it, no bouncing at all. This is why you need a second person to measure it if you don’t have an electronic tool.
+1 on the slacker. Ingenious gadget that is
 
What is your static sag with that much preload? You don't want it to be zero. Hitting a bump will bounce you out of the seat.

Unless you are really tearing it up on a track 25mm rear rider sag isn't very much. For street use and beginner track I'd look for that to be 35mm.

Right now I'm 28mm static and 40mm rider front with 12mm static and 35mm rider rear.

how important is it that the rear sag be less than the front?

gunna play with it some more today, but the bike feels tight as a drum just sitting on it, haven’t rode it yet sense cranking the springs down, will do that later this morning.
 
It doesn't have to be less than the front. For street riding it could be equal but as a general rule you want the front to have maybe 5-10mm more rider sag.

With naked bikes its more typical that they'd be equal. Sport bikes tend to see the bias toward the front.
 
Also there is theory and practice, but once you set it up get your notebook out and write down everything, sag, clicks, your weight, fork height, tire pressures, gearing, possibly swing arm angle, ambient temp, etc etc go for a ride see how it feels, note your natural pace. What you are looking for initially is a baseline where the bike feels ok, if something does not feel right dont change multiple things- only one thing. Then go for a ride, take notes rinse and repeat. Eventually you'll get to a place where for your unique style and conditions there will be a sweet spot or the baseline you can always go back to if get lost. Plenty of advice on here on how to tune it but its really important to have a process since there are so many variables
 
Also there is theory and practice, but once you set it up get your notebook out and write down everything, sag, clicks, your weight, fork height, tire pressures, gearing, possibly swing arm angle, ambient temp, etc etc go for a ride see how it feels, note your natural pace. What you are looking for initially is a baseline where the bike feels ok, if something does not feel right dont change multiple things- only one thing. Then go for a ride, take notes rinse and repeat. Eventually you'll get to a place where for your unique style and conditions there will be a sweet spot or the baseline you can always go back to if get lost. Plenty of advice on here on how to tune it but its really important to have a process since there are so many variables

Right on thanks.

just went for a go spirited test ride, bike is turning in really well, maybe a bit too much

the damping and rebound felt pretty good and it’s not bouncing me out of my seat on bumps

although when it lands after the bump it’s not settling quite as smoothly as I’d like.

the one big issue though is that the front end feels less stable under hard accelerations and at higher speeds…90 mph and up
 
that might be getting used to it, previously with the rear squatting it may have given a feeling of stability. Everything is a tradeoff, the faster you go the harder it is to turn so if you set the bike up to be on rails its not going to turn as well. Try loosening your grip or take a note of how youre riding. I had a problem for a with high speed tank slappers on a certain kink, I was tensing up, but as soon as I relaxed my vice grip hand the problem disappeared.
 
that might be getting used to it, previously with the rear squatting it may have given a feeling of stability. Everything is a tradeoff, the faster you go the harder it is to turn so if you set the bike up to be on rails its not going to turn as well. Try loosening your grip or take a note of how youre riding. I had a problem for a with high speed tank slappers on a certain kink, I was tensing up, but as soon as I relaxed my vice grip hand the problem disappeared.

yeah I posted that last post on the end of the outbound trip, the ride back it felt a lot better…for sure some of it is just muscle memory needing an adjustment.
 
Have you tried going up on the steering damper?

If I can make a suggestion, put each ride mode into DES Fixed. You can go into each and note what the compression and rebound is, etc. Make all of the DTC, ABS and DWC settings the same for all of the modes, leaving the DES (suspension) in their fixed defaults. Go ride and try each mode.

For the 2021 Panigale V4S the settings seem to vary more on DES Fixed than Dynamic.

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