Aftermarket Handlebar Switches

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bp_SFV4

bp_SFV4

Joined
Jul 10, 2020
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Location
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I was looking at getting myself a late Christmas present for use in the 2023 riding season and have been considering aftermarket switchgear for quite sometime. The stock stuff is pretty flimsy and I'm constantly hitting the highbeam lever on accident. Plus, it would be nice to have something durable in case of a slide. I'm mainly looking at Jetprime but looking to get some feedback on what others have tried. I was thinking about getting the 7-button left since my bike does see some street time along with the right 3-button throttle housing.

Not that I'm out braking the stock setup, but is there any reason why the JP throttle housing with the buttons wouldn't work with a RCS master or the like should I decide to upgrade that?


 
Hi bp,
The timing of your question is perfect, as I too am looking to upgrade my switches, but for track only use.
So far I've come across these brands (link), and hope folks here will chime in with their recommendations amongst them, and also offer suggestions for other brands to consider:
 
I’m in the middle of installing BSD switches (no turn signals) and RCS masters.

I seem to have misplaced the clutch switch though, or it might not have been included so the left hand buttons will have to wait about a week before I can offer a review.

Initial impressions are that they feel great…

I’ll update this thread soon.
 
Yea, it was a good upgrade, however I keep forgetting the sequence to toggle between the screens on my CNC racing version
 
Alkhater said:
I’m in the middle of installing BSD switches (no turn signals) and RCS masters.

I seem to have misplaced the clutch switch though, or it might not have been included so the left hand buttons will have to wait about a week before I can offer a review.

Initial impressions are that they feel great…

I’ll update this thread soon.
Click to expand...

will the RCS clutch master take the micro switch? I didn't think they had the mounting holes?
 
ive had several types over the years the BSD cluster, the Jetprime and im now with the BSD one that mounts on a clamp. that gave me a bit more clearance for thumb brake..
 
andyb said:
will the RCS clutch master take the micro switch? I didn't think they had the mounting holes?
Click to expand...

They don’t… disregard what I said about the clutch switch, I meant the switch control module. My bad.
 
Ah Roger......the BSD one is separate, interestingly the jet prime one is integral to the switch wire..and a bit smaller!
 
I made my own. I have a toggle to turn on the bike. This “keyless” switch unlike the JP setup does not req a key or elock. I made a CF switch plate sir the starter and used a nice aluminum OTTO sealed push button.

On the left side I bought the empty shell halves, push buttons switches and switch buttons from Jet Prime. They sell all of the switch shell configurations, and components separately so you can build your own setup depending on what you want.

I used OTTO switches throughout, 22759/16 Teflon/nickel wire, Insultherm Raychem/sheathing. I used Resintech 125 epoxy on all the terminations.

I have a push button momentary clutch switch on the bottom of the left switch. If I need it to start the bike in gear, it’s there.

A lot of the aftermarket switch packs use cheap Chinese momentary switches (CNC) cheap wiring and cheap rubber sheathing. It’s not that difficult to do and actually less $$ if you buy the good stuff and do it yourself. You also get any customization you might want. I also rebuild the Domino’s with upgraded wiring. What they ship with is quite fragile.
 

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endodoc said:
I made my own. I have a toggle to turn on the bike. This “keyless” switch unlike the JP setup does not req a key or elock. I made a CF switch plate sir the starter and used a nice aluminum OTTO sealed push button.

On the left side I bought the empty shell halves, push buttons switches and switch buttons from Jet Prime. They sell all of the switch shell configurations, and components separately so you can build your own setup depending on what you want.

I used OTTO switches throughout, 22759/16 Teflon/nickel wire, Insultherm Raychem/sheathing. I used Resintech 125 epoxy on all the terminations.

I have a push button momentary clutch switch on the bottom of the left switch. If I need it to start the bike in gear, it’s there.

A lot of the aftermarket switch packs use cheap Chinese momentary switches (CNC) cheap wiring and cheap rubber sheathing. It’s not that difficult to do and actually less $$ if you buy the good stuff and do it yourself. You also get any customization you might want. I also rebuild the Domino’s with upgraded wiring. What they ship with is quite fragile.
Click to expand...

Wow, nicely done 👍
 
Wiring workspace. I get all the Ducati connectors from Cycle Terminal, Mouser, and Digikey. All the wiring and harnessing tools and Autosport connectors from Racespec. I can now build racespec harnesses in any custom configuration I need.
 

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I may have to look into that more. I had no idea OTTO was so proud of those switches.

Is the wiring as simple as a +5V in (or +12V whatever) then the switches just redirect the +5V?
 
Endodoc. Stop playing around with handlebar jewelry and get working on a V2 ABS delete!!!!!!!! Come on now!!!!!
 
It’s pretty straight forward and almost as simple as that. The difficulty is the meticulous routing, terminating and engineering the fit. My wife wanted a larger flow wrapper for our Boise mfg facility. They shipped it in sections. All the wiring was in big bundles lying in the crate. I told her, you bought it, you make it work. Fired up on the fist shot. If she can do it, you guys can do it.
 

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This is a complete ABS delete. I have been running it without issue for a year. I built it for my harness so it will not plug into the stock harness. I would have to build another version. Quite a bit nicer than the big box with plugs
 

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The pain in the ... thing with the V4 is the connector they use to join the main harness to the left hand controls. I'll have to find a pic of it, but it seems like it would be making a USB type-C by hand.
 
If I’m doing my own stuff I just use the Autosport connectors for point to point. If it terminates into something proprietary, then I have to source the connector. I have everything for the older V2 (mits system) and most everything for the V4 but still sourcing better connectors for the ECU. In your case if those connectors were not not available I would lop it off ant the harness and replace it with a different connector.
 

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This is the offender. It's maybe 1/4" square, probably 9 to 12 conductors, I can't remember. The good news is there's enough wire length between the ECU and offending connector one could amputate it and even re-attach if need be.

1672105469053.png
 
Last edited:
Hard to make it out. If you have a clear shot of the inside of the male pin connector, I can find the set. Then the question is do you have the necessary pin tools for it. Standardization for electronic connectors is the poster child for WTF and the myriad of special tooling is baffling. I have the DMC master kit that does almost all of the MilSpec and just about everything else but if you don’t do a bunch of work, the tools are somewhat prohibitive.
 

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