Anyone tried to tune V4R geometry using AI models yet ?

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Dave Moss's materials surely part of AI models these days

Has anyone tried to tweak geometry using AI models ?
In all this I don't know what AI is, my point was missed. Everybody's riding style is different, everybody's mass distribution is different. The bike needs to be set up for you. The only way to perfect the bike for you is to translate what you're feeling in your palms, a** and balls of your feet into set up changes. If you don't change anything significantly, you'll never have enough data. I love it that SD steepened his bike and can feel it. I have never measured a single one of my bikes. I move the geometry around until it does what I want, provides enough feel so I have confidence in the front, is easy to ride fast with little effort and no puckers. The set-up is always relative to tire choice.
 
Holy crap...your 1950 robot fantasy BS has nothing to do with modern AI in the context of this thread.

Fork cam ✅

ETV map ✅

AI ✅
He describes the societal changes that we are about to begin to undergo. Way more relevant than you think. I'm sorry that my ability to map bugs you. I'm not selling anything, nor will I ever even share my maps. Not for the ham handed. But carry on if it makes you feel better. I heard you mama was a wide receiver for the 49er's...
 
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It’s called talk to a reputable suspension tuner. All this stuff is really just algorithmic, i.e. shortening trail=more nimble but trade stability. Humans are still the best thing to translate “feelings” into quantifiable changes. All the information that AI bases its answers is derived from material humans have learned.

Although, AI did nail the trail question

ChatGPT said:
If the **turn-in issue is only on entry**, the main goal is to **get more weight onto the front** and slightly **steepen the rake** without making the bike unstable. Here’s how to fine-tune your setup:

### **Adjustments for Better Turn-In on Entry**
#### **Geometry Tweaks**
✔ **Raise the rear ride height by 2-3mm** → This shifts weight forward, steepens the rake, and reduces trail slightly (**target: ~98mm**).
✔ **Drop the front by raising forks 3-4mm** through the triple clamps → Helps the front bite sooner when initiating lean.

#### **Suspension Adjustments**
✔ **Reduce fork rebound damping slightly** → Helps the fork settle into the turn quicker after braking.
✔ **Increase fork compression damping slightly** → Ensures the front stays loaded under braking, improving front-end feel.
✔ **Reduce rear preload slightly** → Keeps weight forward and prevents the rear from pushing the front wide.

### **Other Considerations**
- **Tire Profile:** A more aggressive front tire (like a Pirelli SC1 or equivalent) will help quicken steering.
- **Body Positioning:** Make sure you’re getting your weight forward on corner entry to help load the front tire.

Try making **one adjustment at a time**, starting with raising the rear ride height and dropping the forks. If the bike still feels lazy on entry, tweak fork rebound and compression damping next.

Let me know how it feels after trying these changes!
 
Sport bikes are designed to turn in with the fork loaded and at the bottom of the stroke. Meaning initial hard braking followed by trail braking. If you can't brake hard enough, trail brake, the bike won't want to turn in easy. If your bike comes with high end suspension sag measurement is ALL you need to look at. Rider with gear on the bike . Ball park: 1"to -1 1/4 '' rear, 25mm. Front 1 1/2"to 1" 1 3/4" 35mm. If you can't get close to these numbers then spring rates need to be changed. Ducati sets the bike up for a rider weighing around 175-180lbs. Ohlins valving is good out the box. This may sound simple, and it is, but unless you are a top club Pro or National Pro SBK level that's all you need other than getting better as a rider. I was, so this is my experience. Spend your money on the track with good rubber.
 
Sport bikes are designed to turn in with the fork loaded and at the bottom of the stroke. Meaning initial hard braking followed by trail braking. If you can't brake hard enough, trail brake, the bike won't want to turn in easy. If your bike comes with high end suspension sag measurement is ALL you need to look at. Rider with gear on the bike . Ball park: 1"to -1 1/4 '' rear, 25mm. Front 1 1/2"to 1" 1 3/4" 35mm. If you can't get close to these numbers then spring rates need to be changed. Ducati sets the bike up for a rider weighing around 175-180lbs. Ohlins valving is good out the box. This may sound simple, and it is, but unless you are a top club Pro or National Pro SBK level that's all you need other than getting better as a rider. I was, so this is my experience. Spend your money on the track with good rubber.

Golden words
 
Sport bikes are designed to turn in with the fork loaded and at the bottom of the stroke. Meaning initial hard braking followed by trail braking. If you can't brake hard enough, trail brake, the bike won't want to turn in easy. If your bike comes with high end suspension sag measurement is ALL you need to look at. Rider with gear on the bike . Ball park: 1"to -1 1/4 '' rear, 25mm. Front 1 1/2"to 1" 1 3/4" 35mm. If you can't get close to these numbers then spring rates need to be changed. Ducati sets the bike up for a rider weighing around 175-180lbs. Ohlins valving is good out the box. This may sound simple, and it is, but unless you are a top club Pro or National Pro SBK level that's all you need other than getting better as a rider. I was, so this is my experience. Spend your money on the track with good rubber.
Yes and SD (sorry SD) for example weighs 140 lbs (?) so even with the springs changed appropriately the front is loaded less and the cg is further back and lower than for the intended 180 lb rider. Seat time instills confidence, I agree spend the money on rubber.
 

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