Anyone who has done their own desmo service

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You don't need the tool. Make sure the piston is at TDC for the head your working on, then push the shim down. The valve will move, but it'll stop at the piston. You're not raming it so you won't do damage. Then remove the split ring and slide the shim off. I did this 2 years ago and no issues.

This works fine for the exhaust valves but when installing the new shims on the intake side your supposed to use the tool and torque it properly seat the collets. You don't need to do this with the split rings but do for the collets to properly seat them.
 
Funny all the people that don't know what they're talking about. If you have a 1199 or 1299 and need to remove the INTAKE valve shims, you need the tool. Simple as that. Unless you are taking the head off, which means splitting the bike in half.
 
Funny all the people that don't know what they're talking about. If you have a 1199 or 1299 and need to remove the INTAKE valve shims, you need the tool. Simple as that. Unless you are taking the head off, which means splitting the bike in half.

Yes, I'm sure @Disco was just thinking the exhaust side as he's a smart guy and helped me out in the past on other stuff.

If you don't correctly seat the collets on the intake your clearances will be off so it's a must. I just went through all this last year and thankfully was able to find all the tools but it's a pain.
 
Thanks for the backup, Seth. To be fair, I did only change 2 exhaust shims on the last one and am current pretty sick, so please forgive my slip. The tool itself looks very simple; pipe with a slotted end and a bolt that presses against the opening shim while pulling up on the closing shim. Sound about right? Can't believe there's not an affordable alternative, looks like a $50 bit if kit!
 
Last year I performed a clearance check and all the valves were within tolerance. The values that I recorded suggested that some adjustments would likely be in order the next time around (mid 2019). I flipped through the shop manual at the time to get an idea of what special tools would be required. I came up with 887133468 (tool to remove half-cones/split rings… $113.00) and 887133467 (tool to fit valve collets… $200.00). When I saw your post today I took a second look at the shop manual because I couldn’t remember a $500.00 dollar tool being required to perform the job. I still can’t find tool 887133924 shown in the shop manual procedure. Did I miss it? You’re correct, the tool does exist and it’s listed in the parts catalogue as a tool to remove the half-cones, and it does sell for well over $500.00, but do you recall where in the manual the tool is shown to be an item required to perform the service? Do we have to spend $300.00+ or $800.00 for tools required to perform this service.

So questions, is the tool to remove half cones/split rings MPN. 887133468 not necessarily needed?

I would only need the degree wheel holder tool and the tool to fit valve collets? (The 200$ one) and then possibly the 600$ half cone removal tool if the intake valves need new shims?
 
also just to make sure, something like this would work for the degree holder tool? Crankshaft Turning Tool for 1990-2020 Ducati 1098 1198 1199 1299 848 Hypermotard | eBay

Or would it be better off just getting this one from hdesa ?
 
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I'll try to answer but there is a difference between what "can be done and should"...

You can remove the split rings & collets without the tool, it's just cleaner with it and you don't risk any damage or going crazy and bending a valve. It's possible just be very careful when doing it.

When installing them (or seating) them you can do the split rings without the tool but I would recommend you use the tool to tighten the collets. The seat is to a specific torque and too much or not enough will change the clearance, I only know this as I've done it myself!

If any questions message me and I'll try to help
 
So questions, is the tool to remove half cones/split rings MPN. 887133468 not necessarily needed?

I would only need the degree wheel holder tool and the tool to fit valve collets? (The 200$ one) and then possibly the 600$ half cone removal tool if the intake valves need new shims?

The part number 887133468 is only used if the heads are off the bike.

I did the job without the crankshaft turning tool, but you will at least need the tool that locks the crank at TDC.
 
If you take the heads off of the bike the need for the crank turning tool and intake tool are removed right?

Is the intake valve tool necessary for checking clearance or only for making adjustments?
 
If the heads are off you can just put the cams in "service position" and check clearances so would not need crank turning tool.

The intake valve tool is only required if you are replacing the closing shims on a valve to correct a clearances that is out of spec.

You don't need the tool to check the valve clearances, only if you are replacing shims
 
I'm in the middle of checking my valves 7,000 miles after the last Desmo service I did myself. They are fine, but there are a couple of pointers i want to share. If you are checking the opening shims, you can inadvertantly push the valve down against the spring preload of the closing arm and get a false reading because you are impinging upon the closing shim clearances by moving the rocker against the preload spring. I put my thumb over the closing rocker to feel for any movement, or prevent it if necessary, while I am checking the opening shim clearances. My best results are to use feeler gauges until they stop sliding easily, then hold my thumb against the closing rocker for all other checks. Secondly, the 'Service Position' is TDC on the compression stroke, so the piston is all the way up. Khmer 1199 has a couple of great videos on YouTube if you want to get some pointers from his techniques. And lastly, do NOT buy one of those el cheapo Chinese 'crankshaft tool' POS units off Amazon or Ebay. The tangs are very thin and will snap off. Ask me how I know. I was checking the intake and exhaust durations so I could set up some cam timing profiles, and after about 5-6 minutes both tangs started to break. No plugs in the heads, btw. I managed to get the 'tool' off the crank with one tang still dangling, and some judicious use of a small magnet retrieved the other one before it could fall inside the left engine cover, but I hate to think what would have happened if I hadn't noticed things getting sloppy and pulled things apart before it was too late. I didn't get the valve timing measurements finished either. So if anyone know where I can get the timing specs for the 1199 I'd appreciate it. I did get 230-235 degrees total duration for the Exhaust at .050" of lift, but not the center line, BBDC or ATDC marks or total lift and centerline unfortunately. I need them so I can build a custom exhaust for the bike. Kind of important to have those numbers when you are designing an exhaust system.
 
Do not make this mistake:

20231009_164004.jpg
 
Can anyone who owns the tool for torquing the intake collets on (887133467), please tell me the diameter and thread pitch of the bolt that it uses. I work in a machine shop with access to everything I will need to fabricate the tool, but I would like to duplicate the bolt size so as to match the torquing force. Thank you,
 
And then sell them here for a reasonable price 😄

Yeah I would, but my boss will let me use all the entire machine shop to make one for myself, but if he sees me going into business, he's going to want a cut... and then it won't be cheap.:D
 
Haha, fair. If you get the dimensions please pass them on. I might be able to do something here
 

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