Breaking in complete!

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the ducati engineers that built and designed this engine just wrote the break in procedure in the manual for a joke. They spent lots of time and money testing and then writing the procedure.

But they did all that because they had nothing better to do. You can get much better advice on here from guys who have owned a panigale for 5 minutes and paint houses for a living.

(no offence to any house painters)

100%
 
The Ducati engineers that built and designed this engine just wrote the break in procedure in the manual for a joke. They spent lots of time and money testing and then writing the procedure.

*sigh* here we go again...this is the same endlessly parroted response - the same people say never use anything except OEM oil and air filters because they're the "best" (proven false) and always wait 600 miles to change the oil the first time because you need to let the crap circulate and help parts bed in (or whatever, proven false)

"But the manual says so!"

Who cares? Common sense and countless case studies trump the manual and it's outmoded break-in methodology.

In reality, the break-in guidance in the manual is an extremely conservative procedure intended to cover a vast range of possible owner uses. It's always better for the manufacturer to err on the side of caution. Regardless, it's been proven over and over (and over) that a moderately hard break in with short bursts of throttle (initially in the lower gears, to prevent excessive heat, higher gears later) works - plain and simple, end of story. With short trips, frequent oil changes, occasional hard throttle, break in is complete well before 1000 miles, and many compression/leak down/dyno tests prove it, unequivocally

This is the most balanced article I've seen on the topic - this is the method I use and my engines never use a drop of oil. Gentle break in motors very often use *some* oil

New Engine Break-in Procedure
 
*sigh* here we go again...this is the same endlessly parroted response - the same people say never use anything except OEM oil and air filters because they're the "best" (proven false) and always wait 600 miles to change the oil the first time because you need to let the crap circulate and help parts bed in (or whatever, proven false)

"But the manual says so!"

Who cares? Common sense and countless case studies trump the manual and it's outmoded break-in methodology.

In reality, the break-in guidance in the manual is an extremely conservative procedure intended to cover a vast range of possible owner uses. It's always better for the manufacturer to err on the side of caution. Regardless, it's been proven over and over (and over) that a moderately hard break in with short bursts of throttle (initially in the lower gears, to prevent excessive heat, higher gears later) works - plain and simple, end of story. With short trips, frequent oil changes, occasional hard throttle, break in is complete well before 1000 miles, and many compression/leak down/dyno tests prove it, unequivocally

This is the most balanced article I've seen on the topic - this is the method I use and my engines never use a drop of oil. Gentle break in motors very often use *some* oil

New Engine Break-in Procedure

Very well said and i couldnt agree more. I am not saying one should take their bike to redline leaving the dealership, obviously there is a right and a wrong way to perform a harder break in. But the harder break in methodology has proven to be superior over and over.

I have said it before, anytime somebody is going to start a debate with "well, the engineers at (insert OEM) spent a lot of time....", just please stop. Seriously, just don't.

By that reasoning we should never change the type/brand/style of chain or sprockets, sprocket carrier, oil, filter, levers, rearsets, tires, clip-ons, battery, etc. I mean, the OEM engineers know best, right? :rolleyes:

The OEM is worried about liability, covering every type of use imaginable, protecting their interests and avoiding warranty claims.
 
*sigh* here we go again...this is the same endlessly parroted response - the same people say never use anything except OEM oil and air filters because they're the "best" (proven false) and always wait 600 miles to change the oil the first time because you need to let the crap circulate and help parts bed in (or whatever, proven false)

"But the manual says so!"

Who cares? Common sense and countless case studies trump the manual and it's outmoded break-in methodology.

In reality, the break-in guidance in the manual is an extremely conservative procedure intended to cover a vast range of possible owner uses. It's always better for the manufacturer to err on the side of caution. Regardless, it's been proven over and over (and over) that a moderately hard break in with short bursts of throttle (initially in the lower gears, to prevent excessive heat, higher gears later) works - plain and simple, end of story. With short trips, frequent oil changes, occasional hard throttle, break in is complete well before 1000 miles, and many compression/leak down/dyno tests prove it, unequivocally

This is the most balanced article I've seen on the topic - this is the method I use and my engines never use a drop of oil. Gentle break in motors very often use *some* oil

New Engine Break-in Procedure

Great article from 1991 . I have had many race bikes and this is the first I have run in from the "book " . The Pistons are ...... huge so heat cycles and run in play a important role with this particular bike from your regular 4 IL or whatever bike .
Fact is do what you want but from experience the cautious run in is your better insurance from having a good motor and like I said in a previous post both motors will be the same but in the longest term one will be better .
This this has been debated to death so flip a coin .
 
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Again? Really?
 

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