Brembo RCS Clutch MC // Microswitch Elimination

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kinser

kinser

Joined
Sep 11, 2013
Messages
40
Location
South Carolina
I'm working on fitting a Brembo RCS 17 Brake MC and matching RCS 16 Clutch MC on the 1199. On the brake side, I replaced the OEM start/stop switch with one from Ducati Omaha and the new MC came ready to accept the OEM microswitch used for activating the brake lights... so I'm all good there. Not so lucky on the clutch side.

On the clutch MC, there is no method of attaching the OEM microswitch that signals the computer that the clutch has been pulled. So I'm wondering what others have done in this situation, since there are a couple options.

Option 1) Eliminate the clutch microswitch altogether and just unplug it from the harness. Downside here is that the bike can no longer be started if it is in gear. Not a huge issue, unless the gear position indicator fails to tell the bike it is in neutral.. an error I've had to deal with in the past.

Option 2) Wire the clutch microswitch wires and the start/stop button into a relay that will activate the start switch and the clutch switch any time the start button is pressed. I've done this on race bikes in the past, but it's a PITA and means having to find somewhere to shove a wad of wires going into a relay... a relay that could fail, leaving me stranded on the road trying to MacGyver my way out of it.

Option 3) Use 7 zip ties and 2 feet of duct tape to take the little switch onto the fork and just press it if I ever need it! :mad: :D

Any help or suggestions for a more complete and/or elegant solution would be greatly appreciated.
 
lardawge said:
I have this setup on both my race bike and street bike.

Vortex Brake Light Switch - SoloMotoParts.com
10mm x 1.00

It plugs right into the harness.
Click to expand...

I... I think I love you. I've seen these before, not sure why I blanked out on it and didn't think to use one here. Are you using it on the clutch side? My only concern would be that it would require a higher hydraulic pressure to activate than the clutch mc would generate. I would imagine that it wouldn't be all that high though, since you would want your brake light to activate even if you're barely on the lever. Got any insight there?
 
I only use it on the clutch side. It works a charm with no issue. I've ran it on my race bike (base) for a while and just converted my R with similar results. Both using the same switch.
 
kinser said:
I... I think I love you. I've seen these before, not sure why I blanked out on it and didn't think to use one here. Are you using it on the clutch side? My only concern would be that it would require a higher hydraulic pressure to activate than the clutch mc would generate. I would imagine that it wouldn't be all that high though, since you would want your brake light to activate even if you're barely on the lever. Got any insight there?
Click to expand...

Okay guys, not that kinda site lol
 
Last edited:
The 2015 R and base model shifter won't work without the switch, and will rev-limit at 9000 or so rpm.
 
DynastySS said:
Hey sorry to bump an old thread here, but I was wondering how exactly this switch works? It screws into the banjo bolt or something?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

You actually replace the existing banjo bolt with this unit. It has a built in pressure switch that activates any time there is hydraulic pressure applied to it. The end result is that any time you place pressure on the brake lever, the switch activates and turns on the brake lights.
 
kinser said:
You actually replace the existing banjo bolt with this unit. It has a built in pressure switch that activates any time there is hydraulic pressure applied to it. The end result is that any time you place pressure on the brake lever, the switch activates and turns on the brake lights.
Click to expand...

Kinser,

Does works on Clutch side as well? did you use it and it will be awesome if you have pic :D
 
youngR said:
Kinser,

Does works on Clutch side as well? did you use it and it will be awesome if you have pic :D
Click to expand...

It will work on the clutch side, however, you might not wanna do that as it has some unexpected results... The ECU (2013 1199) modifies the throttle mapping when the clutch lever is pulled in and changes it to a very linear mapping curve. When the lever is out, it has a non-linear curve to it... so that the throttle is less sensitive at the beginning of the range of motion for the throttle and more linear and comes on faster at the higher end. When you pull in the clutch with the OEM micro switch, the lever is almost all the way in before the switch engages, so you never notice that change in the throttle mapping... since you're off the throttle by that time anyway. However, when using the pressure switch that we're talking about in this thread, the switch is activated the INSTANT you move the clutch. The problem then becomes that as you take off from a stop, the throttle is mapped to the more sensitive setting, then when you completely let go of the clutch, it suddenly becomes less sensitive and the bike slows abruptly. You don't have this problem with the OEM switch because it disengages as soon as you begin to release the clutch.

So how did I fix this? Well, I didn't. Most of the time, the bike doesn't need to know if you've pulled in the clutch or not. The only time that it needs this is if you want to start the bike while it's in gear and that is something that I never really need to do. SO, the configuration I went with was to install the pressure switch for the clutch side as well, but I did NOT PLUG IT IN. So the bike never knew if I pulled the clutch or not and therefore always kept the "normal riding" throttle curve in place. If I ever came into a situation where I wanted to start the bike while in gear or something like that, I would simply plug the connector in, then unplug it once I was done and going back to normal.

I fully realize how ganky that .... sounds, but that was the only solution. This is why I now ride Yamaha. :)
 
kinser said:
It will work on the clutch side, however, you might not wanna do that as it has some unexpected results... The ECU (2013 1199) modifies the throttle mapping when the clutch lever is pulled in and changes it to a very linear mapping curve. When the lever is out, it has a non-linear curve to it... so that the throttle is less sensitive at the beginning of the range of motion for the throttle and more linear and comes on faster at the higher end. When you pull in the clutch with the OEM micro switch, the lever is almost all the way in before the switch engages, so you never notice that change in the throttle mapping... since you're off the throttle by that time anyway. However, when using the pressure switch that we're talking about in this thread, the switch is activated the INSTANT you move the clutch. The problem then becomes that as you take off from a stop, the throttle is mapped to the more sensitive setting, then when you completely let go of the clutch, it suddenly becomes less sensitive and the bike slows abruptly. You don't have this problem with the OEM switch because it disengages as soon as you begin to release the clutch.

So how did I fix this? Well, I didn't. Most of the time, the bike doesn't need to know if you've pulled in the clutch or not. The only time that it needs this is if you want to start the bike while it's in gear and that is something that I never really need to do. SO, the configuration I went with was to install the pressure switch for the clutch side as well, but I did NOT PLUG IT IN. So the bike never knew if I pulled the clutch or not and therefore always kept the "normal riding" throttle curve in place. If I ever came into a situation where I wanted to start the bike while in gear or something like that, I would simply plug the connector in, then unplug it once I was done and going back to normal.

I fully realize how ganky that .... sounds, but that was the only solution. This is why I now ride Yamaha. :)
Click to expand...

Kinser,

Thank you for the explanation. So you just unplugged it and and start in Neutral.
 
This seems easiest route. especially if you are not doing stop and go in street riding. I currently do Track only so this shouldnt be an issue.
 
Wow- awesome! Thanks for the explanation!!!!! I was having this issue and thought I was going crazy! Run mine unplugged now. Which is fine until the gear pos sensor goes out. Which happens this weekend...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Bringing this thread back to life.

I am thinking of machining a tiny bracket that mounts to the RCS 17 clutch master so I can mount the oem micro switch so it all works like the oem setup.
 
Finally got the part made and few bits machined to get the bracket conversion all done here are the pics.
 

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For me, that switch was a nightmare. I used the Factory Brembo switch that SimonKobe sell for the billet Brembo MC. For some reason when that switch is activated, things are weird for a bit afterwards so .... that stupid switch. I rigged the circuit to the horn button on the Ducabike multi switch unit. Now if I do kill it, instead of trying to find N, I just hit the horn switch with the starter. Works perfect and I don't have to engage that switch circuit unless absolutely necessary.
 

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