broke my bleeder nipple off

believe me.. its a PIA and i have seriously considered bypassing it. the problem is that there are other systems that depend on the feedback from the abs module im told.. but i dont think that bypassing it will hurt much of anything other than i dont have abs.. mehhhh.. so im doing research on bypassing it.. to be honest abs is not a plus for me, i do not ride in the rain or on surfaces that require abs and i do not grab a fistful of brakes.. if its a situation where abs needs to save you from running into something, its not going to save you. but its nice if you hit a slippery patch.. i just think it has no place on a bike like this..just MHO

as for the bike, i did a slight resurfacing of the rotors to remove all traces of the old pad material put in new HH pads.. its currently sitting. yesterday morning i checked again for air. this time on ly the right caliper is still producing air..i bled until no air.. then waiting till last night and again the right caliper produced air.. again this morning and more air..i checked a few minute s ago and more air..always about the same , starts solid then at the third pump with the lever 4 to 5 bubbles only the right caliper bleeder though. it does not seem to be lessening, but i will keep trying, im going to try the reverse bleed method mentioned by andyB

i talked with another member who said he went as far as replacing the calipers and bypassing the abs till the softness went away and the front brake felt right. to him

1hander said:

believe me.. its a PIA and i have seriously considered bypassing it. the problem is that there are other systems that depend on the feedback from the abs module im told.. but i dont think that bypassing it will hurt much of anything other than i dont have abs.. mehhhh.. so im doing research on bypassing it.. to be honest abs is not a plus for me, i do not ride in the rain or on surfaces that require abs and i do not grab a fistful of brakes.. if its a situation where abs needs to save you from running into something, its not going to save you. but its nice if you hit a slippery patch.. i just think it has no place on a bike like this..just MHO

as for the bike, i did a slight resurfacing of the rotors to remove all traces of the old pad material put in new HH pads.. its currently sitting. yesterday morning i checked again for air. this time on ly the right caliper is still producing air..i bled until no air.. then waiting till last night and again the right caliper produced air.. again this morning and more air..i checked a few minute s ago and more air..always about the same , starts solid then at the third pump with the lever 4 to 5 bubbles only the right caliper bleeder though. it does not seem to be lessening, but i will keep trying, im going to try the reverse bleed method mentioned by andyB

i talked with another member who said he went as far as replacing the calipers and bypassing the abs till the softness went away and the front brake felt right. to him

Click to expand...

The new Bosch cornering ABS system is great! It’s saved me on the track a few times and was non-intrusive. It would be not smart to remove it in any situation less than full on race bike and even then there’s advantages to keeping it (more room for trail braking error, costs associated with said trail braking errors, etc). If you think the front brake for these bikes is bad, you have either bad brake feel or it’s a mental thing.

ive considered that its just in my head but it seems like its only gotten worse over time..its possible i have a problem in the brake system. thatts why im contiuing to bleed it,,,if t keeps putting out air then that air is getting in somehow.. the hunt continues

1hander said:

ive considered that its just in my head but it seems like its only gotten worse over time..its possible i have a problem in the brake system. thatts why im contiuing to bleed it,,,if t keeps putting out air then that air is getting in somehow.. the hunt continues

Click to expand...

First, are you sure the air bubbles are coming from the system vs a bad seal at the tube/nipple.

Second, I’d follow this regimen to bleed the brakes.

Third, I’d look for any leaks.

Fourth, I’d change crush washers or seals at any part that has been loosened or touched.

i have ordered all new crush washers, but i have not found a leak yet. thank you for the info..

Do you get bubbles when bleeding the master or just the calipers?

If you have a TEXA or OBDstar, check to see if you can activate the ABS pump.

What I would do is put plumbing in to bypass the abs and then try to bleed it. At least then you'll know sorta where it must be.

i considered that as well but its not that easy, it would involve purchasing or making custom lines just for a test. the v4 has hard steel/ soft line hybrids that are formed to fit through the radiator area. a good bit of money just for a test.

my bad luck continues. the new HH pads were a bust.. super hot in the middle of the pads turned blue.not touching on the edges..the first set did the same thing...i thought it was the rotors...but . i put the original used pads back in a they are twice as good as the HHs are ,,,,be it on a cold hit... or running at highway speed and hitting them, the brembo pads that come in it are better than HHs fir the street anyway.. i wont be changing to another pad... the ebc HHs are not what i remember them being at all. maybe i just got bad sets but i have never even heard of such a thing..they were straight out of the packaging.. but its just my bad luck these days, i dont even care .. lifes too short..

i remember HH pads were snatchy...even cold..when rolling slowly if you gave the lever a slight ...... you could hear clunk...where the pads would snatch at the discs..thes do no such thing, even at highway speed if i grab a handful, its about half a second before they really start to bite. .once
im super frustrated.. i looked at the bleed hose while i was bleeding the master again.. after riding. and noticed small specks of black floating through in the fluid ..the damn brand new seal is being chewed up for some reason..i have one more test.. i have been getting consistently air from the right caliper but not the left .. so this time im going to... bleed the left caliper first , if air comes out of the left but not the right...then i know the air ir coming from farther upstream of the both calipers..

so either the abs pump, banjobleeders/crushwashers, or mastercyclinder/ banjo bleeder/crushwashers. have a leak/ it could be the banjo bleeders,crushwashers.i checked the brake line i built..it holds 350 psi air pressure indef and is rated for 650psi ..... im going to get new crush washers, go back to original banjo bolts as well to eliminate too many openings that might be leaking. then if air comes out of the left caliper... ill mount the radial one last time..to make sure there is still no air coming out with the original.. then i have to find another master. im hoping it only comes from the right caliper. ill replace it.. i really think its till the damn master.. but i dont know why... im just done

if this brembo axial is also leaking then i dont know why, im not an engineer but if its also no good then for reasons that i cannot find 4 or 5 master cylinder s have failed even after new seals. i have checked bore diameters checked for bore taper and they are all within .0002 in diameter of the radial masters bore and have almost zero taper...only thing i can guess is maybe the seals that come in the axial brembo goldline masters are slightly larger or of a harder durometer. idk.. i just want to eliminate as many possibilities before i spend 1300.00 on a damn master cylinder.

its time for me to stop hoping that its not the master cylinder and just accept that im going to have so spend the money... so if would have not been a cheap ass, i would not have spent close to 800.00 on 2 new masters and 4 used.. plus rebuild kits,,, plus the insane a mount of time ive spent fuqin with this.. all i can do call myself a fuqin idiot.
sometimes i cant see the damn forest through the trees... this i think was a case of I WILL FIGURE THIS OUT.. i screwed myself on this one. so in the end its all going back 100 percent to stock...minus the dual master cylinder..and the brake line i made

the biggest problem is pfm stuff for me is that its race only there are no mounts for switches.. the brake switch is easy banjo switch.. does any one know where i can find a NORMALLY CLOSED banjo switch for the clutch.. or a 3 lead banjo switch that be wired either normally closed or open..the v4 needs a normally closed switch in the clutch switch circuit that opens when you pull the lever...and i dont even know that a pressure switch will bo sensitive enough to work properly.. if not ill have design and machine some way to mount a switch, PITA

SuperDomestique said:

Do you get bubbles when bleeding the master or just the calipers?

If you have a TEXA or OBDstar, check to see if you can activate the ABS pump.

Click to expand...

for about 2 days it was the right caliper only ... but now it seems the master is producing air again as well, but not consistently ..sometimes it will, sometimes it wont... really maddening and as i stated above i saw black specs going through the bleeder hose..which can only be the seal...brand new seals. i had an obdstar but thats another crappy story.

im thinking that its the master cylinder still. because the air from the caliper bleeder does not come out on the first pull of the lever its the very end of the second and the third pull of the lever, which i was thinking might be about how long it would take air bubbles to get from the master to the caliper.. the brake line diameters is very small..i think 1.5mm -2mm , im 90 percent sure the air is coming from upstream of both calipers.

1hander said:

for about 2 days it was the right caliper only ... but now it seems the master is producing air again as well, but not consistently ..sometimes it will, sometimes it wont... really maddening and as i stated above i saw black specs going through the bleeder hose..which can only be the seal...brand new seals. i had an obdstar but thats another crappy story.

im thinking that its the master cylinder still. because the air from the caliper bleeder does not come out on the first pull of the lever its the very end of the second and the third pull of the lever, which i was thinking might be about how long it would take air bubbles to get from the master to the caliper.. the brake line diameters is very small..i think 1.5mm -2mm , im 90 percent sure the air is coming from upstream of both calipers.

Click to expand...

Could crack the master banjo and push out air through there

SuperDomestique said:

Could crack the master banjo and push out air through there

Click to expand...

believe me boss i have .. over and over and over and over..... ive lost count ..sometimes it puts out air sometimes it doesnt, its not consistent at all. once bled and no air comes out.. air should never come again unless i open the system, cuz its a closed system..
the master mas to be leaking air ..... right?

but the times that the right caliper let out air, i did not bleed the master first.

I'm not saying remove the abs just bypass to see if when it's eliminated the air goes away. You can do this without any electronic intervention. If that's OK I'm thinking pull the bleeders, dry the bleeder seats then blue the bleeders just a little (too much and they can look ok when they're not) and look for the tell on the seat. The tell should be continuous. If the blued tell on the seat is broken anywhere bad bleeder. If the bleeder seats are ok then move to the unions. Make some fine soapy bubbles, not too much surface tension, and pull the lever in then put some bubbles around the unions. If you see the bubbles disturbed as you release the lever it's a leak at the union. Good luck. What a PIA.

baggerman said:

I'm not saying remove the abs just bypass to see if when it's eliminated the air goes away. You can do this without any electronic intervention. If that's OK I'm thinking pull the bleeders, dry the bleeder seats then blue the bleeders just a little (too much and they can look ok when they're not) and look for the tell on the seat. The tell should be continuous. If the blued tell on the seat is broken anywhere bad bleeder. If the bleeder seats are ok then move to the unions. Make some fine soapy bubbles, not too much surface tension, and pull the lever in then put some bubbles around the unions. If you see the bubbles disturbed as you release the lever it's a leak at the union. Good luck. What a PIA.

Click to expand...

If you need some bubbles SD has quite a few going spare.....

lol

Busas have similar bleeding issues.
Assuming your seals everywhere are ok....
What we do is also bleed at the abs pump.
I haven't looked at my V4 abs pump but I'll assume it's similar.
Zip tie the front brakes overnight.
Bleed master and brakes as you have done.
Keep pressure on the front brakes. Slightly crack the correct bolt at the abs pump. This will help if air is trapped there. Make sure you don't let air back in by keeping pressure on the brake.
There is no need to put the pump into any special mode.

I could have sworn someone at some point mentioned using bleeder banjo bolts on the ABS pump fittings. I don't know if I like the idea of cracking open a banjo bolt while trying to use it as a bleeder.

You can put bleeder bolts on the abs pump...
I felt it was quicker to crack the bolt open to purge the remaining air and be done with it.
Wasn't too big of a deal

i have done that

Sounds like Andy has you covered when it comes to advice. Good luck w your disaster

What’s the internet say..