Can I see some sweet safety wire pics yall?

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For the sake OF YOUR SAFETY people...do not put safety cable in a loosening direction!! The basic concept of safety wire is to put a positive retention, in the tightening direction of the bolt threads, to assist the correct fastener head (allen, torx, etc.) that allows the tool to properly torque the entire thread length. The reason we have allen drive type heads on caliper bolts and not a phillips screwdriver, is because the screwdriver does not apply the same "full torsional" , tool fully seated in bolt effect to the fastener head.

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The cable is not there to just hold the bolt in if it was to back out. How do you retain torque if the wire is pulling on it in a loosening direction?

These cable pictures are loosing torque due to vibration and heat cycles and you're bound to lose the intent of your brake caliper install and mediocre safety cable.




Do not use the clips - these have a free rotation axis and completely null the rigidness of proper safety cable - the cable is effectively a hand made rod from wire. If it loosens it will rotate on the clip that is not secured in 4 axis, up - down - left - right. The clip and the safety cable (rod) will rotate on the 5th axis. It will rotate only to the allowable length of cable, but the bolt will still loosen if the wire/rod is not extremely tight - which then you would not be using the clips because you would see how loose the clips are.

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JAG the caliper bolts are damn good for your first go, nice twists all the way along, pulling correctly on the bolt heads and tight against the caliper. The pig tail is more for personal safety so you don't clip anything on the wire, like a cut zip tie, but you've got the eye for it
 
JAG the caliper bolts are damn good for your first go, nice twists all the way along, pulling correctly on the bolt heads and tight against the caliper. The pig tail is more for personal safety so you don't clip anything on the wire, like a cut zip tie, but you've got the eye for it

I know you think you're trying to be helpful, and you seem to be knowledgeable on some things, but all you're doing is making enemies on this forum

You are correct that he did a great 1st attempt but his safety wiring technique has fundamental issues that we need to help him with. If you've done any type of safety wiring in your life you would know this is not correct:
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And you're alluding to what as far as making enemies? Or are you mad that I'm providing correct information to your wrong posts?

Quote me where I'm wrong and I'm happy to discuss it in detail. That's what a forum is for. Obviously not here to make enemies on the internet, but share knowledge

If you look closely at the bottom bolt head, which I did not at first, you'll see there's only 1 path for the wire to go through on the bottom bolt. There needs to be a 2nd set of safety wire holes perpendicular/90° from it, because there's assumption that the safety wire hole will line up correctly with the bolt at proper torque.

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If you fail a test and make an F or subpar grade, do you blame the teacher or do you blame yourself?
 
Trust me buddy, I'm not mad.

All I'm saying is you like to speak about your 'information' on certain subjects but when folks ask for evidence you're slow to respond.

I would ask you for pictures of the safety wire on your bike using that nifty $1,000 tool you previously implied Jag and others here should buy but I honestly don't care.

Simple question then: Do you think Jag used correct technique for his front caliper's safety wire as per my image above?
 
I provide all my information correct as is? Like I said show me where I'm wrong.

Evidence as in how, because I suggest a tool to be used that works great, I have to show you that I own the thing to prove my point? Or do you need to see something in real life to believe it's true? I have pics of my bike all over this forum so I'm not sure what you're getting at.
 
You can mark the bolts as a good visual indicator to start with and run firm safety cable from there. I'm in the middle of closing out injector re-build and replacing the dry clutch so I'll get back to you with safety cable pics once I'm at that point of the build. These are my calipers as is

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And no I'd accept an A- on the LHRB thread as the topic doesn't apply to keeping ABS 🤓 thank you for the correction though..
 
I don’t have a good pic of my calipers safety wire job, but it was a harder one to make look good with tight wire. Ultimately, I’ve had luck with reversing the twist direction when making the pig tail.


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I used .032 inconel wire, it's better at handling high temperatures and doesn't run any chance of corrosion

Front left caliper:
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Front right:
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looks good! ive ordered new caliper bolts with holes, along with new drain plug (with holes). For Filter Cover, i just drilled the stock bolts. I have an oil change coming up just before COTA weekend and ill do all this just prior along with new tires front and rear!

thanks for all the pics and tips everyone
JAG
 
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