Clutch push rod engine oil leak
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It's been covered a few times, but this thread should give you some ideas:
oil leak from the clutch pushrod hole (1199 base 2012)
oil leak from the clutch pushrod hole (1199 base 2012)
Thanks Disco
I have read that thread, a lot of misinformation and no real measurements for the mod, was hoping to get some good info and measurements off someone who has done the mod.
YamaBond is your friend man. My new to me 1299 had same leak after the first time i changed front sprocket (you have to pull slave and rod out). Had a leak after first ride, tore it back apart, affixed the yamabond and moving on with life man. I was never able to get good measurement's out of anyone either, whats shown in that thread was my best guess, but never eneded up acting on it since was able to fix another way..
good luck my friend,
JAG
good luck my friend,
JAG
Ok well here is the correct information. First identify if you have the updated chain guard with the seal (see photos, one is stock the other I made). If yours doesn’t have the seal, get one that does or you can get an o ring that fits tightly on the slave rod and when you tighten the guard back in place, it will deform and and accomplish the same thing.
I have never known that not to work however that somewhat depends on what’s left of the integrity of the internal seal ring. If the above doesn’t fix it, yes you could start piling Yamabond in various places and see what happens.
The pushrod mod to me is sketchy only because you would need to get it right. The rod diameter is 10mm and the clearance is fairly tight so the rod would need to be machined fairly accurately and the groove depth deep enough to recess the ring accordingly to fit the clearance and allow for smooth operation. If you have a lathe and some decent measuring ability, this could be an option.
All that said, to fix the issue “correctly” order part #s 93041771A and 93040931A, get the correct blind seal puller and seal seat tool, split the case and make the repair.
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between the slave sealing surface and the chain guard, and between the chain guard and engine case. Just about a pea sized amount spread around with a zip tie.
i believe in both my 1199 and 1299, the real issue is the interior oring about 4inches inside the motor...impossible to reach without splitting case...F that...
Yeah exactly not going there if I can avoid it, OK cool I will try the gasket goo and a tighter O ring, if this fails I will try the machined O ring grooves in the push rod , but I will make my own push rod out of solid aluminium so the rod is not compromised by the machined grooves
Cheers
Thanks for your help
Yeah the pressure is what worries me, that’s why I will go the solid aluminium round bar, no chance of that collapsing , I will see what eventuates and if I need a spare rod I will keep you in mind.
Cheers
The clutch slave rod is hardened steel and again a precision fit. I made some Titanium rods for my own stuff (photos) Iwould strongly suggest as did JAG that you do not use aluminum. At that diameter 8mm, there will be insufficient rigidity even in a 7K series alloy for the application. Machined down to 6mm to properly seat an o-ring and it will fail. Additionally, surface wear would also be an issue. The groove procedure is mechanically simple. Here is the setup and the bit.
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Upon further arrival examination, I’m going to have to say I’m extremely skeptical of the “rod mod”. Here are pics of two different 99 cases I pulled out. In the slave rod hole you can clearly see the internal seal.
What is also apparent is that there is a sleeve in there as well which is a smaller diameter (I measured it) than the last section of the case hole. This sleeve creates a really precision fit on the rod and as I said a different diameter than the final section of the case.
I don’t see how you put an o-ring on the rod, have the rod travel the distance it needs to and not have that sleeve transition lip jack up that o- ring. Not saying you couldn’t precisely position the ring so it just misses the lip but that’s a stretch. I’ll have to take some measurements.
That being said you would now need to source an appropriate o-ring that was robust enough to last and thin enough as to not remove a bunch of rod material. Again the o-ring would need to be a hair over 8mm when installed, sketchy. It would be great if the OP who talked about the “rod mod” could post the pics of the goods. I’d like to see it.
What is also apparent is that there is a sleeve in there as well which is a smaller diameter (I measured it) than the last section of the case hole. This sleeve creates a really precision fit on the rod and as I said a different diameter than the final section of the case.
I don’t see how you put an o-ring on the rod, have the rod travel the distance it needs to and not have that sleeve transition lip jack up that o- ring. Not saying you couldn’t precisely position the ring so it just misses the lip but that’s a stretch. I’ll have to take some measurements.
That being said you would now need to source an appropriate o-ring that was robust enough to last and thin enough as to not remove a bunch of rod material. Again the o-ring would need to be a hair over 8mm when installed, sketchy. It would be great if the OP who talked about the “rod mod” could post the pics of the goods. I’d like to see it.
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all very good information Endodoc and thanks for that, what a prick of a design by Ducati, what is wrong with a seal that can be accessed and replaced externally!!
Anyway I will try to beef up the O ring behind the slave cylinder and apply som goo and see how long I can get away with it.
Thanks all.
Anyway I will try to beef up the O ring behind the slave cylinder and apply som goo and see how long I can get away with it.
Thanks all.
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Endo, is the surface finish on the sleeve higher than the bore on the case? I'd be apprehensive about sliding an orings on a surface not prepared for it. You could wind up replacing worn orings quite regularly. The shaft would be far easier to get a suitable finish on, hence the plate and oring fix is likely the more reliable solution.
Disco, yes it is an that was my concern as well in addition to the concern you mention regarding the surface prep. Just a .... show all the way considering if you look at the solution Ducati uses on the shift cover (an externally mounted seal). Quite bizarre until you factor the same engineers gave you a front cylinder spark plug access panel that doesn’t allow you to access the plug and then it starts to make sense.
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I did this once around 2022july and it kept me all summer and after that i parked my 1299 into garage until last month and then in april i have been a short ride and now the leak started again... how about yours?
Thought I’d update on what I did about this issue hopefully helps. I had the same oil leak issue coming from the push rod. I put gasket maker on the inside of the plate but personally didn’t like doing that as you remove it and you have to keep doing it. Plus a Ducati tech told me that the o ring on the inside of the mounting plate was to stop anything getting inside . So I just did what they had done to previous Ducatis and grooved out the rod and put 2 o rings on it. Started bike up got up to temp and pulled clutch lever a few times as it’s a track bike so can’t ride it. No oil leaks atm but I’ll keep an eye on it after I do a track day
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