....this might be a stupid question but I was not smart enough to test before I started changing things.
I replaced the reservoirs on my 1199 and upgraded to an Oberon clutch slave while I was at it. Filled and bled clutch fluid about 10 reservoirs full.... maybe more. Lever is nice and firm, just as I remember it.... BUT when on the rear stand, with the level pulled in and the putting the bike in first, the rear wheel will spin slowly while still holding the lever in. If I put the bike into second and still keep the clutch lever pulled in then the wheel doesn't rotate anymore. Do I still have a little bit of air in the system?
I used a power bleeder to initially suck the fluid down to the bleeder nipple then I reverted to the manual method of pumping the lever 10 times and slowly cracking the nipple, then closing the bleeder before releasing the lever. I had a nice stream of fluid coming out with no little bubbles, and I repeated the process at the master cylinder until I was happy but it was a little more finicky up top because even after the fluid was coming back nice and solid I would do it once more to make sure and then a big air bubble would come through for about 1" of hose but the lever was so stiff that it didn't make sense that such a large air bubble would be right there. I bled my rear brake using the same method and its nice and tight just as I remember it (who uses it anyways). I will be doing the front brakes this morning. Any insight? Just hydraulic drag in a very low gear?
I replaced the reservoirs on my 1199 and upgraded to an Oberon clutch slave while I was at it. Filled and bled clutch fluid about 10 reservoirs full.... maybe more. Lever is nice and firm, just as I remember it.... BUT when on the rear stand, with the level pulled in and the putting the bike in first, the rear wheel will spin slowly while still holding the lever in. If I put the bike into second and still keep the clutch lever pulled in then the wheel doesn't rotate anymore. Do I still have a little bit of air in the system?
I used a power bleeder to initially suck the fluid down to the bleeder nipple then I reverted to the manual method of pumping the lever 10 times and slowly cracking the nipple, then closing the bleeder before releasing the lever. I had a nice stream of fluid coming out with no little bubbles, and I repeated the process at the master cylinder until I was happy but it was a little more finicky up top because even after the fluid was coming back nice and solid I would do it once more to make sure and then a big air bubble would come through for about 1" of hose but the lever was so stiff that it didn't make sense that such a large air bubble would be right there. I bled my rear brake using the same method and its nice and tight just as I remember it (who uses it anyways). I will be doing the front brakes this morning. Any insight? Just hydraulic drag in a very low gear?
