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@WetDog Racing no you can't just use springs from other brands UNLESS these springs match in internal and outer diameter as well as length. Unfortunately, I have yet to find a replacement for the Showa fork springs; most people just have an Ohlins conversion done.
 
roadracerx said:
@WetDog Racing no you can't just use springs from other brands UNLESS these springs match in internal and outer diameter as well as length. Unfortunately, I have yet to find a replacement for the Showa fork springs; most people just have an Ohlins conversion done.
Click to expand...

Hmm not ideal... Thanks for saving me a couple of hours of unnecessary work. Guess I'll have to wait an extra couple of weeks before I can set it up properly
 
@roadracerx
V4 2020 with Ohlins 956 FL Front and DU468 Rear.
Front is 3mm above triple clamps (factory showas were flush or rather 1mm) and 40mm SAG. (I measured inner tube / full stroke of FL956 to be 125mm....)
Rear shock length 310mm (as recommended in Ohlins Manual) and 30mm SAG.
Tires: Pirelli Big Size Slicks (125/70 200/65)
Gearing: 15/41 or 15/42

Is that correct setup for big pirellis in your opinion? I was running 312mm shock for 120/60 200/60 tires before.

Thank you!
 
roadracerx said:
I have learned from folks like Dave Moss
Click to expand...
Your still south west coast? we see Dave almost every month still have not paid him to look at my bike. because it works so well.

2013 1199S full termi and upmap. im 9 years in to my set up, and just started riding Thill east/west, Sonoma, laguna, late last year, wear is great for my Q4s front and rear, riding slow A group pace currently in B+, im getting 4-5 days out of the tires. running the 15/41 520

Bike seems stable and does everything i want, less the damned gear position sensor goes wonky when temps get 100f out.

if you have any advise, im open. Sort of a track noob, but having a blast.
 
@roadracerx

I would very much appreciate if you could help me with a base setup for rear shock length and front fork height. Springs are correct for my weight. Sag can be set to 40mm front and 30mm rear by adjusting the preload. I guess I got a little lost with the initial changes and would like to restart with a good base geometry. Details are as follow:

V4 base 2022
Showa forks with FKR inserts (stock forks were set flush with the triple clamp)
DU468 TTX rear shock
Stock tires were Pirelli SP V3 200/60. Changed to Bridgestone R11 200/55 (no choice as these are the tires I must use in the race)
Changed gearing from the stock 16-41 to 520 15-43

Sachs rear shock seems about 4mm longer than the new TTX. Not exactly sure by how much the smaller diameter of the Bridgestone and gearing change affects ride height. I made a mark on the hub and set the length to the new chain to be the exact same length as the stock one if that’s of any help.
Would be great if you could give me an approximate length for the rear shock combined with front fork height adjustment that you think could be suitable to start with.

Thanks so much for your help.
 
@WetDog Racing unfortunately it isn't that easy without a ride height tool because you have changed gearing. Is there a reason you went so much shorter? This will make the bike VERY peaky and sensitive on the throttle pickup.

Stock Pirelli diameter for 120/70 ==> 604 mm and 200/60 rear ==> 672 mm.

The Bridgestone R11 has the same diameter in front but the rear 200/55 is 655 mm. That is a 8.5 mm change in ride height which is HUGH! I bet the bike is running wide out of corners....

Most shock linkages have a 2.5 : 1 ratio. That means for each mm the shock moves the swingarm moves 2.5 mm.
Take that 8.5 mm ride height change due to your tires and divide it by the linkage ratio of 2.5 which gives you 3.5.

With the bike on STOCK GEARING and sitting 8.5 mm lower in the rear with these R11s I would measure the stock shock eye-to-eye then adjust your Ohlins shock to 3.5 mm longer so the geometry of the bike is back to stock.

Measure the swingarm length with the stock gearing and correct chain tension. You should take note of where the axle is within the eccentric so that you can try to duplicate this swingarm length and ride height with your shorter gearing.
 
roadracerx said:
@WetDog Racing unfortunately it isn't that easy without a ride height tool because you have changed gearing. Is there a reason you went so much shorter? This will make the bike VERY peaky and sensitive on the throttle pickup.

Stock Pirelli diameter for 120/70 ==> 604 mm and 200/60 rear ==> 672 mm.

The Bridgestone R11 has the same diameter in front but the rear 200/55 is 655 mm. That is a 8.5 mm change in ride height which is HUGH! I bet the bike is running wide out of corners....

Most shock linkages have a 2.5 : 1 ratio. That means for each mm the shock moves the swingarm moves 2.5 mm.
Take that 8.5 mm ride height change due to your tires and divide it by the linkage ratio of 2.5 which gives you 3.5.

With the bike on STOCK GEARING and sitting 8.5 mm lower in the rear with these R11s I would measure the stock shock eye-to-eye then adjust your Ohlins shock to 3.5 mm longer so the geometry of the bike is back to stock.

Measure the swingarm length with the stock gearing and correct chain tension. You should take note of where the axle is within the eccentric so that you can try to duplicate this swingarm length and ride height with your shorter gearing.
Click to expand...
@roadracerx
Wow you are good.
Let me answer your questions first:

Bike struggles to turn in sharply and is very slow on direction changes. Not so much of an issue running wide on exit, but bike feels very long on corner entry and mid corner and forces me to these wide radius turn ins to avoid going wide on exit.

For the gearing choice: The track I’m setting up the bike at is small and not well suited to 200+hp bikes. Actually planning to go even higher in the rear (probably 45). On the R1 I run a 15-47 on the same track but don’t use 1st gear. On the V4 the quality of the gearbox makes it easy to feel confident using 1st.

I usually have a different gearing for each track I ride at… Seems like a ride height tool will probably be mandatory on the V4.

Thanks for the calculations on compensating for the tires. I’ll lengthen the rear shock to its max length. Now my questions are (let’s assume stock gearing): That 3.5mm in extra length on the rear should compensate for the tire size difference. But what about the fact that the TTX is shorter than the stock Sachs rear shock? I should compensate for that as well to be back to stock geometry right? Since the shock is already at max length can I do that by dropping the front a few mm compared to stock position?

I don’t have a shock length measuring tool but let’s assume TTX is 4mm shorter than the stock Sachs shock.

Thanks so much man. You really know your ....!
 

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WetDog Racing said:
@roadracerx
Wow you are good.
Let me answer your questions first:

Bike struggles to turn in sharply and is very slow on direction changes. Not so much of an issue running wide on exit, but bike feels very long on corner entry and mid corner and forces me to these wide radius turn ins to avoid going wide on exit.

For the gearing choice: The track I’m setting up the bike at is small and not well suited to 200+hp bikes. Actually planning to go even higher in the rear (probably 45). On the R1 I run a 15-47 on the same track but don’t use 1st gear. On the V4 the quality of the gearbox makes it easy to feel confident using 1st.

I usually have a different gearing for each track I ride at… Seems like a ride height tool will probably be mandatory on the V4.

Thanks for the calculations on compensating for the tires. I’ll lengthen the rear shock to its max length. Now my questions are (let’s assume stock gearing): That 3.5mm in extra length on the rear should compensate for the tire size difference. But what about the fact that the TTX is shorter than the stock Sachs rear shock? I should compensate for that as well to be back to stock geometry right? Since the shock is already at max length can I do that by dropping the front a few mm compared to stock position?

I don’t have a shock length measuring tool but let’s assume TTX is 4mm shorter than the stock Sachs shock.

Thanks so much man. You really know your ....!
Click to expand...

Looks like the DU468 length is adjustable from 308-314 mm. It’s set at 310 when sold.
 
Hey Roadracerx, your opinion would interest me.
I have a 2019 V4S, weighing 215 lbs with all gear and wonder what the right setup (eapecially the rear) for my bike would be.
I am a pure trackrider, fast group midpack.
Bike is complete stock, except for
- Full akra
- 15 teeth sprocket in the front

My problems/questions:
1. Handling could be better
2. Racefairing is scraping (Motoxpricambi)
3. I wonder if I should increase my rideheight, if so, how much
4. I wonder what the rider sag should be in the rear and the total sag in the rear
5. Btw, Do I alter the rideheight when I use the chain adjustment extender on this bike (which I had to extend cause of the 16 to 15 teeth change in the front sprocket)?

Can you help?

Best regards
Sammy
 
Sammy0080 said:
Hey Roadracerx, your opinion would interest me.
I have a 2019 V4S, weighing 215 lbs with all gear and wonder what the right setup (eapecially the rear) for my bike would be.
I am a pure trackrider, fast group midpack.
Bike is complete stock, except for
- Full akra
- 15 teeth sprocket in the front

My problems/questions:
1. Handling could be better
2. Racefairing is scraping (Motoxpricambi)
3. I wonder if I should increase my rideheight, if so, how much
4. I wonder what the rider sag should be in the rear and the total sag in the rear
5. Btw, Do I alter the rideheight when I use the chain adjustment extender on this bike (which I had to extend cause of the 16 to 15 teeth change in the front sprocket)?

Can you help?

Best regards
Sammy
Click to expand...

Where on the fairing is it scraping?
 
Anyone know where you can by fork springs for the 2022+ NPX forks? Same as NIX30?

Also can anyone refresh my memory on what the stock fork springs in the 22 are? At 147 lbs with gear, I wasn’t able to get close to the recommended sag (42 mm) posted a couple pages back with all preload out. Despite this, I did my first trackday yesterday with the bike. Bike felt great. Very confidence inspiring. But I wasn’t using full travel. I think I had 15-20 mm of travel remaining. Any thoughts?
 
SuperDomestique said:
Anyone know where you can by fork springs for the 2022+ NPX forks? Same as NIX30?

Also can anyone refresh my memory on what the stock fork springs in the 22 are? At 147 lbs with gear, I wasn’t able to get close to the recommended sag (42 mm) posted a couple pages back with all preload out. Despite this, I did my first trackday yesterday with the bike. Bike felt great. Very confidence inspiring. But I wasn’t using full travel. I think I had 15-20 mm of travel remaining. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

cant you utilise a shorter measuring device or put some weight on?
 
@SuperDomestique any Ohlins dealer can get them. I can help you if you like. All springs are the same length p/n 4744 but the rate is different. 10.0 was the rate for many years on Ducatis but in 2022, the new pressurized fork has increased travel by 0.2-inches and a reduced spring rate (10n/m to 9.5n/m). This means there is a 9.5 N/m spring in each fork leg for the 2022 bike.
 
roadracerx said:
@SuperDomestique any Ohlins dealer can get them. I can help you if you like. All springs are the same length p/n 4744 but the rate is different. 10.0 was the rate for many years on Ducatis but in 2022, the new pressurized fork has increased travel by 0.2-inches and a reduced spring rate (10n/m to 9.5n/m). This means there is a 9.5 N/m spring in each fork leg for the 2022 bike.
Click to expand...

Think it’d be worth going for 8.5? How difficult is it to change them?
 

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