Front wheel removal:Need help

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I can't tell you out of own experience, has I haven't removed the front wheel yet. But I can give you the info acc. to the workshop manual:

1: Support the front wheel (stand)
2: Remove the 2 brake caliper screws on each side (4 Total) (don't remove any hoses). After disconnecting the the brake calipers DONT operate the brake lever anymore (would cause the brake pistons to be expelled).
3: Loosen and remove left axle nut. Recover the washer.
4: LOOSEN (dont remove) the wheel shaft screws under the fork legs (2 on each side).
5: Remove the wheel shaft from front wheel
6: After removing the wheel shaft, recover the two metal spacers stuck in the front wheel.
7: Remove the oil sealing ring inside the front wheel (don't know if that is really necessary if you plan to just swap tires).
 
Found it in the manual, but i'm not 100% sure if its correct. Cause the Axle nut seems like an M30 to me...manual says M25 though. The torque settings should be correct though:

Front Fork:
Screw retaining Ohlins fork bottom end clamps to shaft: M8x1.25 / 19NM (seems like an M6 to me). Before tightening, set front wheel back on the ground so that the fork can compress.

Front Wheel:
Nut retaining front wheel pack to LH fork leg: M25x1.25 / 63NM (seems like an M30 to me).

Front Brakes:
Screw retaining callipers to fork bottom end: M10x1.25 (seems like an M8 to me) / 45NM/pre-torque 2NM= Pre Torque calipers with 2NM, pull front brake lever 2-3 times...then tighten down to 45NM WHILE keeping the brake lever pulled.
 
python4933 said:
6: After removing the wheel shaft, recover the two metal spacers stuck in the front wheel.
Click to expand...

Seem like (and I could be wrong - I often am) that when I changed out my tire a couple months ago, these two spacers were of slightly different shape.
I think the left one is symmetrical (i.e. it doesn't matter which way you put it back on) but the right side was asymmetric (pay attention to how it was on).
Or maybe I'm just getting it mixed up with a tire off some other bike. In any event, check 'em as you take them off.
 
Charlie is correct. Acc. to the parts catalogue, left side is symmetrical (and thicker), right side is asymmetrical (and thinner).
 
Just compared the screw sizes with the parts-catalogue..these should be the correct sizes:

Brake Caliper Screws (# 779.1.331.1D): M10x60
Front Fork Screws (# 771.5.069.8B): M6x25
Fron Wheel Axle nut (# 748.1.065.1A): M25x1.25
 
python4933 said:
Just compared the screw sizes with the parts-catalogue..these should be the correct sizes:

Brake Caliper Screws (# 779.1.331.1D): M10x60
Front Fork Screws (# 771.5.069.8B): M6x25
Fron Wheel Axle nut (# 748.1.065.1A): M25x1.25
Click to expand...

Thats the thread size and pitch ;)
 
python4933 said:
Yep...as the "M" would indicate... Metrical Thread ;)
Click to expand...

Not sure what Metrical is haha, but I was pointing out that those numbers you posted were of the thread size and pitch, not the size of the socket required to get the nut off, which is what he was after. Just trying to help limit confusion.

If you wanted to order Ti bolts for those, then your numbers would be beneficial.
 
Be careful putting the wheel back on. When you're inserting it between the fork legs it's really easy to catch a brake rotor on the lip of the fender and scratch it. Sit or stand in front of the bike and watch both sides as you slide it in and you won't have any problems.

Also, be carful tightening the pinch bolts. The torque spec is really low and it's easy to break them if you get overly enthusiastic.
 

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