Front wheel removal:Need help

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Charliem90 said:
Seem like (and I could be wrong - I often am) that when I changed out my tire a couple months ago, these two spacers were of slightly different shape.
I think the left one is symmetrical (i.e. it doesn't matter which way you put it back on) but the right side was asymmetric (pay attention to how it was on).
Or maybe I'm just getting it mixed up with a tire off some other bike. In any event, check 'em as you take them off.
Click to expand...

python4933 said:
Charlie is correct. Acc. to the parts catalogue, left side is symmetrical (and thicker), right side is asymmetrical (and thinner).
Click to expand...

Right, but which way does the smaller one go? There are two sides to the smaller spacer, a thick side and a smaller side. Mine fell out and I do not have a shop manual to see which way is which?
 
Looks like thick side towards the wheel in the parts manual. Agree???
 
Good call on the blue painters tape, as it is very difficult to remove the brake calipers, especially on the right hand side with the extended double banjo bolt, without catching it on the wheel rim and damaging the paintwork. I would recommend a combination of tape and a soft cloth or chamois leather between the two, as you wiggle the calipers free of the disc, that way you will save yourself any heartache.
 
just double checking....is it mandatory to remove the calipers when pulling the front wheel off? While this is how I've always seen it done in a shop, I've never seen a pit crew pull the calipers off while swapping front wheels in an endurance race. Is there a particular trick that those teams are doing to keep the brake pad spacing open?
 
kismetcapitan said:
just double checking....is it mandatory to remove the calipers when pulling the front wheel off? While this is how I've always seen it done in a shop, I've never seen a pit crew pull the calipers off while swapping front wheels in an endurance race. Is there a particular trick that those teams are doing to keep the brake pad spacing open?
Click to expand...


On our stock bikes yes it's mandatory to remove the calipers.

You would have to modify the front end to allow for the quick change. (Axle, spacers, fender mounts) also the 330mm rotors are too large so 320mm would be necessary.
 
btw according to the parts fiche, the fat spacer goes on the left and the thinner one goes on the right. I have a set of aluminum spacers sitting around that I plan to install sometime soon. All in the name of saving 80 grams :p
 
There is some flex in the right leg.

The proper sequence is:
- pinch bolts loose at the left side, tight on the right
- torque the axle nut
- pinch bolts loose at right side, tight at the left
- bounce the front; this should allign the right side.
- tighten the right side pinch bolts.

I'm still not sure if your supposed to tighten the calipers before or after this procedure to allign the calipers.
 
Last edited:
According to the service manual the procedure is as follows:

To refit the wheel:

1. Fit the spacers on each side of the hub
2. Place the wheel between the fork legs
3. Insert the wheel shaft
4. Fit the washer then tighten the locking nut to 63Nm
5. Install the calipers and tighten the screws to 2Nm then pump the brakes a few times to create pressure and hold the lever and tighten the screws to 45Nm
6. Lower the bike and push up and down the handlebars to load the suspension and properly sit the fork legs onto the wheel shaft
7. Tighten the pinch screws (under the fork legs) to 19Nm

So, the calipers are NOT the last step and it doesn't mention anything about tighten the pinch screws on one side and then the locking nut, yadda yadda yadda....

But, what do I know? I'm just following instructions from the Ducati Workshop Manual
 
rrgermanlv said:
According to the service manual the procedure is as follows:

To refit the wheel:

1. Fit the spacers on each side of the hub
2. Place the wheel between the fork legs
3. Insert the wheel shaft
4. Fit the washer then tighten the locking nut to 63Nm
5. Install the calipers and tighten the screws to 2Nm then pump the brakes a few times to create pressure and hold the lever and tighten the screws to 45Nm
6. Lower the bike and push up and down the handlebars to load the suspension and properly sit the fork legs onto the wheel shaft
7. Tighten the pinch screws (under the fork legs) to 19Nm

So, the calipers are NOT the last step and it doesn't mention anything about tighten the pinch screws on one side and then the locking nut, yadda yadda yadda....

But, what do I know? I'm just following instructions from the Ducati Workshop Manual
Click to expand...

UPDATE: The settings above are for Ohlins forks... if you have a Base model (like me - Marzocchi forks) the pinch bolts need less torque. 6Nm, and NOT 19Nm.
 
Last edited:
Very important to set the front wheel properly for alignment of wheel, calipers, and rotors. I used this video from Dave Moss for my RSV4 but sounds like it should be similar for most bikes.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DYHV78tWs1c

The last shop that put my wheel back on didn't do it properly and I could tell on the track by the brake lever feel and noise so it makes a difference n how it's done.
 
flobrandx said:
Very important to set the front wheel properly for alignment of wheel, calipers, and rotors. I used this video from Dave Moss for my RSV4 but sounds like it should be similar for most bikes.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DYHV78tWs1c

The last shop that put my wheel back on didn't do it properly and I could tell on the track by the brake lever feel and noise so it makes a difference n how it's done.
Click to expand...

Yup. Me too. Only thing is the locking nut is on the opposite side of ours, other than that is basically the same procedure
 

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