I started to combine a mo-door garage door opener and an autoswitch AS7G trigger. I later altered that solution as the panigale has a canbus that the AS7G doesnt work well with. Its too inconsistent if wired for one of the turn, cancel, or headlight buttons, since the voltage levels are wrong. If wired to the high beam circuit and you keep you high beams on for too long, it puts it into program mode.
So instead I took the mo-door and added my own custom circuit to it so 3 quick flashes of the headlight triggers the door opener.
Mo-Door
This is just an overglorified garage door opener, repackaged with an external push button to be mounted anywhere you want. If you open it you'll find its just wired to a normal garage door opener pcb, and even supports standard 9 and 12 digit code garage door openers as well as multiple rolling code models (something they dont tell you on their website, probably because it requires opening it to set it up). Also battery is replaceable, just open it up and you'll find a slide in CR2032 battery. No need to send it back and pay them
Autoswitch AS7G
This is a small circuit controller. Many of their models do the same thing, take a single long pulse or quick double pulse, and trigger an output, whether it be a high draw item that be operated by a larger relay, or a small draw item, in the above models case, less than 100mA, like a garage door opener. It has a small relay inside that can drive or close any small current circuit.
As is, if you setup the two together, you can open your garage with say a long trigger or two quick triggers of the headlight. It can be setup with the brake light or any other grounded/12volt signal.
The autoswitch will not trigger with 0-5v like most transistor based circuits, so no ttl or cmos levels here like the panigale can bus uses. They have it setup to trigger a low 0-6v and a high 9-16v. This was something I could not find on their website prior to buying.
Anyway, in my case I had three requirements, or rather things I wanted, so it would work for me.
One, I prefer not to have my garage door opener attached to my bike where its visible or removable. If someone takes the door opener, or if I park my bike outside even if only for a little while, someone can just use it and get into my garage and Im screwed. Some places in my house the garage cant be heard opening or seen.
Two, it would be nice if the garage door required my key or power before opening, so combining the two means you need to turn the key on or power the bike to flash the headlights, no power means no garage door trigger.
Three, two pulses or one long pulse doesnt work for me, since if I flash someone while leaving my tract depending on the setup, I might inadvertently trigger it and opening the garage door while leaving and not know it and again Im screwed.
Thats why I made my own circuit, because as pissed as I might be at someone who cut me off or something, I dont see myself flashing them several times back to back within one second. In my circuit its programmable, so if I find that to be the case I can modify it or myself accordingly till I get it how I like it.
By the way, was about to buy the flash2pass and found that it got terrible reviews in regards to distance or power. I find that the mo-door is better as distance is great, as good or better than most modern off the shelf openers. And the two solutions combined as mentioned, meant it ended up cheaper than the flash2pass, easier to install ultimately, and more flexible since a simple reprogram and it can work with another garage door.
If nothing else hopefully my experimentation with the above products will help someone else
