Help Needed - I messed up big time

Hello All! I will post a short story first then the full story in the next paragraph. Please help as any would help!

Short Story: Clutch pressure ring bolts carved into OEM clutch cover causing shavings in the clutch mechanism. Bike wasn’t ran for long nor was it really driven, just attempted to drive and put into gear.

Long Story: I installed a clear clutch cover for my Panigale V4 and it for some reason was leaking drops of oil. So as a temporary fix, I put the OEM clutch cover on. I didn’t know however that the clutch pressure plate ring causes the bolts to protrude a little farther out than the OEM hence why the clear clutch cover is deeper. When I tried to put it in gear, it wouldn’t go into gear and when I finally did get it in gear i put some throttle on and it just wouldn’t go anywhere. I could feel something grinding or scraping and I knew something was wrong. I take the clutch cover off to see a bunch of shavings. It seems the shavings are only on the clutch cover and the front part of the clutch.

What do you guys suggest I do? My current plan is to flush all the oil, do like 2 or 3 oil changes, and drop the oil pan and clean it out. Also, to do a deep clean inside my clutch. Is there anything else I should do? Any tips you guys can provide? Please help!

Does not sound serious, disassemble the clutch, a thorough inspection and clean then flush/drain the oil should do it. Shavings while not desirable are not a huge problem, its the fine stuff and chunks of metal that do damage. For the first half dozen oil changes I got a lot of shavings on my oil plug. You might want to take the whole cover off and have a good look inside. This all depends on how long you ran it, big difference between 30 seconds and 5 minutes.

it is a pretty decent amount inside the clutch mechanism. there are also a few undesirable big chunks inside the clutch cover but no big chunks inside the clutch component as i can see. bike ran for at tops 1 minute

Pics would help.

I agree with Paul G though. Doesn't sound serious, clean it out to the best of your ability and move on.

If the V4 is like the 1199 motor it will have a oil screen, so you could drop the sump and clean it.

Sell the bike.

punishment for installing a clear clutch cover in the first place…..

You’re likely just fine. Pull it apart and make sure there isn’t significant damage. If not then put it back together and ride.

If you wanna play it extra safe I have a brand new entire clutch assembly for sale. Not a single mile on it. I bought a demo bike that dealer swapped the oem clutch for a dry setup.

I don't get the clear clutch cover thing either. The clutch just goes round and round.
A clear desmo valve cover? That I could get into.

I'm glad I'm not the only one who hates clear clutch covers.

Two worst things you can do:
1. Clear clutch cover.
2. Convert a wet clutch to a dry clutch.

RickD996 said:

2. Convert a wet clutch to a dry clutch.

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curious why that beside the fact that it’s noisy and annoying?

brad8266 said:

curious why that beside the fact that it’s noisy and annoying?

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Maintenance, reliability and service life are far shorter than the wet clutch. The performance benefits are slight.

Duckylucky said:

I don't get the clear clutch cover thing either. The clutch just goes round and round.
A clear desmo valve cover? That I could get into.

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Why? They just go up and down.

I have a clear CNC cover. I was experimenting around with some different clutch pieces(EVR) and I threw the CNC cover to observe what was going on while the bike was on the bench. After I was done, I was just too lazy to swap it back. In it’s defense, it is a very robust case, and looks decent (with an aftermarket clutch) and you can visually glance at the springs, retainers, bolts and a get an idea of friction plate wear without pulling anything.

would I put one on for the hell of it. Probably not but maybe. Would I swap my EVR for a dry clutch? No but starting from scratch I would consider it and did on my latest project (STM).

1 not a fan of mixing friction material, oil and bearing material
2 My STM is lighter than the EVR and that is rotational mass
3 The STM does not retain oil in the plate assembly further reducing rotational mass over the wet clutch
4 The clutch plates are easy to change
5 lacking viscous static coupling (clutch lever in) gearbox disengagement is easier and it is noticeably easier to ease into N for the same reason.

Again just my opinion and experience using what I have. Is the clear clutch cover a poser piece, well it didn’t start out that way but I suppose now it is.

endodoc said:

I have a clear CNC cover. I was experimenting around with some different clutch pieces(EVR) and I threw the CNC cover to observe what was going on while the bike was on the bench. After I was done, I was just too lazy to swap it back. In it’s defense, it is a very robust case, and looks decent (with an aftermarket clutch) and you can visually glance at the springs, retainers, bolts and a get an idea of friction plate wear without pulling anything.

would I put one on for the hell of it. Probably not but maybe. Would I swap my EVR for a dry clutch? No but starting from scratch I would consider it and did on my latest project (STM).

1 not a fan of mixing friction material, oil and bearing material
2 My STM is lighter than the EVR and that is rotational mass
3 The STM does not retain oil in the plate assembly further reducing rotational mass over the wet clutch
4 The clutch plates are easy to change
5 lacking viscous static coupling (clutch lever in) gearbox disengagement is easier and it is noticeably easier to ease into N for the same reason.

Again just my opinion and experience using what I have. Is the clear clutch cover a poser piece, well it didn’t start out that way but I suppose now it is.

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As fan of mechanical things, I think the clear covers are neat. I dont have one, but see why they are popular. Unfortunately that also means the "Campisi crowd" flocks to them.

I get it however love him or hate him, Campisi, isn’t doing to awfully bad in general.

RickD996 said:

Maintenance, reliability and service life are far shorter than the wet clutch. The performance benefits are slight.

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I agree, especially on service life. Every few k it gets plates swapped. I do like the ease of service and lack of oil. I only track it now so already doing plenty of maintenance anyway. If I were to make it a steeet bike again I’d probably throw the wet clutch back on since I have it still. Swapping plates every 3k on a street bike would get old.

endodoc said:

I get it however love him or hate him, Campisi, isn’t doing to awfully bad in general.

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He gets ....

brad8266 said:

I agree, especially on service life. Every few k it gets plates swapped. I do like the ease of service and lack of oil. I only track it now so already doing plenty of maintenance anyway. If I were to make it a steeet bike again I’d probably throw the wet clutch back on since I have it still. Swapping plates every 3k on a street bike would get old.

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Interesting, I have a friend with a 1098R and his plates last 15 plus km, he does not ride it hard. I assume most of the wear comes from the slipper function or on track aggressive race starts,

Paul G said:

Interesting, I have a friend with a 1098R and his plates last 15 plus km, he does not ride it hard. I assume most of the wear comes from the slipper function or on track aggressive race starts,

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Probably. I use this bike very hard, I’m not risking slipping plates on the track. They are a few hundred dollars, I just change them early.