Holy F@#$ Rear Wheel Nut

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Well it is saturated in half a can of PB Blaster now. If I had to guess reinstalled dirty and dry. With a German Torque setting.
I know the wheel has been off once before as previous owner went through a few rears at least on the track.

Would be great to have a flipping Service Manual !!!!!!!!!
 
If it’s any consolation, there are a lot of other guys out there who’s nuts haven’t moved in a long time either. You are not alone my friend. There isn’t anything in the service manual that’s going to assist this situation. Cut the nut. Easy to do. Dremel with a cutoff wheel. Cut at an angle across the nut. You won’t have to go down to the threads but enough so the nut looses it’s geometry under torque. I guarantee it will come off.
 
Appreciate it Endodoc. I was thinking of cutting it. Funny drive side came loose with little effort. I am going to see if the impact that should be here today or tomorrow busts it loose. If not will cut it off and hope axle is ok.
 
I put mine on with a torque wrench, but still need a 4' breaker bar over a 2' 1/2" breaker bar. I believe a 4' breaker tube over a shorter breaker bar is the standard for many of us.
 
I wouldn't cut it without taking it to an engineering shop first. Someone will have an impact driver big enough to get it off. I thought mine was on permanently, but eventually got it free
 
Disco said:
I wouldn't cut it without taking it to an engineering shop first. Someone will have an impact driver big enough to get it off. I thought mine was on permanently, but eventually got it free
Click to expand...

And some properly placed heat can help get that nut to spin if things get really bad.
 
Disco said:
I wouldn't cut it without taking it to an engineering shop first. Someone will have an impact driver big enough to get it off. I thought mine was on permanently, but eventually got it free
Click to expand...
Oops my bad, I forgot what board we were on. This is the “neutered male” site not the “get it done” site. Yep take that thing to NASA and they’ll get it off for ya. Obviously, get the steel socket and try that first. The aluminum nut tool is good for the recommended 230Nm but not a lot more.

Like I said there is a red “over torque” band in the production manual at 400Nm for that part. If you need to apply more torque than that to get it off and there isn’t an adhesion factor involved. I’d toss that axle. A steel socket with a 3-4ft bar and it doesn’t come off, I’m tossing it but that’s just me. With regards to cutting the nut, seriously ladies it’s a 5 min, easy job at best. Nut up a little would ya.
 
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Just a suggestion, better option than taking it to an 'engineering shop' would be somewhere that works on big trucks, diesel shops, RVs, etc. Those guys typically have big impacts that'll surely get the nut off. May want to take a spare one in your pocket though if you're riding the bike to them. Also might want to call ahead and ask if they have the 55mm socket that fits the nut.
 
Endo, you and I haven't had issues before, please keep it that way, I actually enjoy the site.

As I worked in an engineering shop (fabrication, machining, and reclamation work) I know many had access to more suitable tools. Cutting the nut is an option, but slipping an nicking the wheel or damaging the axel are risks not needing to be taken. Coolsparkys option is another great option and depending where Ruhe is located might be easier or harder to find than a machine shop.
 
…after all this is done torque that nut to 150lbs with grease on cone surface mating the wheel and surfaces of cone and nut where they come together! This torque value I used on my track 1199 and never had any issues, 230 NM HELL NO!!!
 
Bo13R said:
…after all this is done torque that nut to 150lbs with grease on cone surface mating the wheel and surfaces of cone and nut where they come together! This torque value I used on my track 1199 and never had any issues, 230 NM HELL NO!!!
Click to expand...

So, torque to ~90% and use anti-seize?
 
Bo13R said:
…after all this is done torque that nut to 150lbs with grease on cone surface mating the wheel and surfaces of cone and nut where they come together! This torque value I used on my track 1199 and never had any issues, 230 NM HELL NO!!!
Click to expand...
LOL you do realize that:
A 230Nm is the manual spec
B 230Nm is 169 lbs, relatively insignificant from 150 lbs on that size fastener. I believe that the 230Nm is also spec in the manual for proper loading of the bearing/ bearing spacer, assemble. They probably just kept the torque the same in both sides. Either way personally, I’ll stick to the spec.
 
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3942A03E-FF2A-4F52-BB4A-8E36AE54AC02.jpeg
 

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