How often do you bleed your clutch?

Capt CF said:

So you just pull the clutch all the way in against the bar and ziptie it overnight? I'll try that. I have a new bottle of Motul too, but haven't had time to put it in yet. Will try that as well.

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You need to loosen the bleeder first (use a cloth and depress), then ziptie it. Leave it over night, tighten bleeder, open res cap, and let it suck in new fluid if need be (replace cap)... done.

TransNone13 said:

You need to loosen the bleeder first (use a cloth and depress), then ziptie it. Leave it over night, tighten bleeder, open res cap, and let it suck in new fluid if need be (replace cap)... done.

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My way sounds easier.

xpercad said:

I replaced the OEM slave with an Oberon and I still have to bleed it frequently.

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I think I was not clear enough. When I say "I still have to bleed it frequently" I mean the system. When I bleed it, I do it both at the MC and at the slave. From what I've read, probably bleedng at the MC would be enough. I'll try this next time.

xpercad said:

I think I was not clear enough. When I say "I still have to bleed it frequently" I mean the system. When I bleed it, I do it both at the MC and at the slave. From what I've read, probably bleedng at the MC would be enough. I'll try this next time.

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That works for me when the lever gets spongy and I have trouble finding neutral.

Replaced the slave with a Cnc unit... Still bleeding every 450-600 miles.

The people who replaced their SC, did you also switch to racing or RBF600 fluid? It helps!

TransNone13 said:

The people who replaced their SC, did you also switch to racing or RBF600 fluid? It helps!

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I did; but it did not help. I think the issue is the deterioration of the slave, which lets air into the system, and not the deterioration of the fluid.

Well I have a CNC and I tell you after removing and inspecting the stocker, it's .....

RD16RR said:

motion-pro just started selling a mini bleed wrench that looks small enough to be carried easily and it has a nifty 1 way valve that prevents fluid from going all over the place while bleeding

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Great looking tool. What size do we need for the Panigale? 8, 10, or 11 mm.
Thanks!

narwhal said:

Great looking tool. What size do we need for the Panigale? 8, 10, or 11 mm.
Thanks!

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WHy buy one stupid tool thats expensive.

MotionPro and others sell small tool kits that fit in the little spot under the lid in the tail. It also happens to have a bottle opener .

...LOL's......you guys need to re-read post #11 .....which says:


the clutch bleed and it's seemingly never ending quest to suck in more air has been a known issue for many owners, from as far back as early 916 days (1994/5) - unbelievable how it has never been resolved.....

-- theories abound as to the cause....nobody has ever produced a definitive answer - i carry an 11mm open end wrench and a small shop rag...i've left the house many times with a limp lever and was always glad i had the wrench with me, so i didn't have to run back home to take care of it - motion-pro just started selling a mini bleed wrench that looks small enough to be carried easily and it has a nifty 1 way valve that prevents fluid from going all over the place while bleeding

-- while bleeding the clutch sucks(it is routine for me now, essentially prior to each ride), i guess i have "written it off" as part and parcel for the brand - there have been all kinds of attempts at a fix for it:

-replace slave (sc)
-replace master
-wrap the clutch line
-pin hole in rubber boot on lever at mc to stop supposed air being pushed or sucked into system
-different fluids
-stop the spinning rod in sc to prevent fluid boil
-spacer plate for sc to allow more air to cool things off (prevent fluid boil)
-new o-ring on sc to stop its deterioration there-by contaminating fluid (it was thought by someone that the blackness was the breakdown of the o-ring)

-- seriously, i have "heard it all".....i hoped all along there would be a simple solution, or Ducati would have done something......evidently not - hopefully something will eventually come of it, but in the mean time an 11mm seems to answer it

-- until something truly definitive comes along, the new mini bleeder from motion-pro is something to have fun with, so.....i've given up

We know, we know. And I too carry a motion-pro 11 mm bleeding wrench and tube.

The issue is, we do not accept this as being OK. (At least I don't.) And, I've got to say that the issue does not appear to be acceptable to my Ducati dealer either. (Thankfully.)

So, I will make do for now, and continue to let my dealer diagnose the issue whenever I am able to make the 325 mile drive to see them.

This is the reality you have two options:

Live with it.
Sell the bike.

Complaining has never solved anything for me .

I have gripes but I'd rather keep the bike and my mouth shut. Maybe I got lucky and/or I do these things regularly because that's how I like to maintain my bikes.

It is not acceptable; but, I can live with it. (for now)

Styler said:

It is not acceptable; but, I can live with it. (for now)

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I don't think so either, but it's Italian. SOMETHING will not work properly every time.

Weird, no such problem here. fluid is all darkened on three hydraulic systems and all still works great at over 5k miles since new. How are you all shifting.

Styler said:

It is not acceptable; but, I can live with it. (for now)

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honestly.....since 1994/95......you'll learn to live with it

Alleykat said:

Originally when I got my bike brand new I had a hard time getting into N. The sales guy told me it had to get "broken in" tolerances on gears were so tight blah blah blah. No that was wrong.Once I got the clutch bled on the 600 mile service it was perfect!

Fast forward to 1500 miles,had to bleed it again.

And again at 2000ish miles.

And now only 300 miles later again!?

I'm tightening the bleeders good and they do have the caps on. Is this normal for this bike? I hate when the lever gets soft.I love the Pani even though she's a temperamental woman that wants to kill me BUT where do these air bubbles keep coming from?

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Are you riding a 2014 bike? I read it's probably the washers that seal the oilfilter, air slipping problem at high temps. So i would have thought this was solved with the 2014 bike.

RD16RR said:

honestly.....since 1994/95......you'll learn to live with it

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Yup. +1

I replace brake/clutch fluids every couple of months just as standard maintenance. So I don't ever have problems with it.

I was riding a couple weeks ago with a Tri Colore owner who suddenly developed (during a rest stop) the "crunchy" clutch effect. His solution was to ride home (wasn't far away) and return on his backup bike (an MV F4). Bled the clutch that night and reported the effect went away but he was going to take it to shop to be inspected. Haven't heard back yet as to the result.

I didnt read all 4 pages so excuse me if this was covered, but this issue is SUPER easy to deal with. Mine gets weak after a few weeks of sitting. I just crack the bleeder at the master cylinder about a half turn, let it sit 60 seconds while watching for fluid to rise out of the bleeder.If it hasnt I very lightly and slowly squeeze the lever fractions of an inch until I see fluid come just short of the top of the bleeder, and close bleeder. instantly like new!I thing a bubble forms in MC that is uphill of the hose to the res. All I know is it always work, no mess, no labor. Try it.