How often do you bleed your clutch?

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mrbrettbaker said:
I didnt read all 4 pages so excuse me if this was covered, but this issue is SUPER easy to deal with. Mine gets weak after a few weeks of sitting. I just crack the bleeder at the master cylinder about a half turn, let it sit 60 seconds while watching for fluid to rise out of the bleeder.If it hasnt I very lightly and slowly squeeze the lever fractions of an inch until I see fluid come just short of the top of the bleeder, and close bleeder. instantly like new!I thing a bubble forms in MC that is uphill of the hose to the res. All I know is it always work, no mess, no labor. Try it.
Click to expand...

-- good approach.....i wouldn't have ever tried this.....i squeeze the lever, open the bleeder, and done - next time i'll take along a 12 pack and a lawn chair :)
 
I always try to avoid pre squeezing whenever I do any kind of bleeding, it sonetimes stirs the air into the fluid.
 
Never, it has worked flawlessly on my 2012 Tricolore from day one. Over 8100 miles so far, and never a complaint about how it operates.
 
Just got in the habit of doing it before every track day. That fluid gets hot, especially when you beat on the bike.
 
mrbrettbaker said:
I didnt read all 4 pages so excuse me if this was covered, but this issue is SUPER easy to deal with. Mine gets weak after a few weeks of sitting. I just crack the bleeder at the master cylinder about a half turn, let it sit 60 seconds while watching for fluid to rise out of the bleeder.If it hasnt I very lightly and slowly squeeze the lever fractions of an inch until I see fluid come just short of the top of the bleeder, and close bleeder. instantly like new!I thing a bubble forms in MC that is uphill of the hose to the res. All I know is it always work, no mess, no labor. Try it.
Click to expand...

Did you miss the part where you plug a drain tube into the nipple, or you just let brake fluid ooze over the bike? :D
 
HotIce said:
Did you miss the part where you plug a drain tube into the nipple, or you just let brake fluid ooze over the bike? :D
Click to expand...

Did you miss the part where I don't let the fluid come out of the bleeder? I earned ASE master tech in auto, truck, diesel and machine shop in 1978 and have bled more systems than you can imagine. The "pump it up method is stupid and spreads bubbles all thru the system. Air rises, and whenever you can just allow it to ride out of the system you get a better job. In this case there, for whatever reason, there is no reason to let a drop of fluid out. I wrap a rag around the area for safety, but when I see the fluid ride into the bleeder, I know the master is full and I close the bleeder. Quite often I don't even have to touch the lever. Btw, I think you run a greater risk of drips removing a hose that has had fluid run thru it.
Btw, I know a great way to get rock hard brake feel when bleeding front brakes ;)
 
You said that you watch the fluid come off the bleeder. But since the bleeder is not transparent, but the time you "watch it", it might already be landed somewhere you don't want to.
Call me paranoid, but I do not open bleeders w/out something to catch the spill.
 
Read again, I never said OFF. I said out as in look inside the bleeder and watch it ride. You do know there is no pressure in there to make it spray if you don't squeeze the lever, right?The interior of the bleeder is 1/4" or deeper, and the fluid gently rises. Unless someone runs up on you and squeezes the lever violently, no fluid ever has to leave the bleeder. Again, should a tiny drip come out, I have a rag wrapped around it. What do you do about the ounce or more of fluid in your bleeder hose when you remove it? It's got to be in there? NO fluid exits my bleeder. It always works, and I never drip fluid.
No this doesn't work for an empty system being refilled, but I do leave the cap off, open the lower bleeder a lot, put a hose on it and let it gravity bleed. Then I follow with the other procedure mentioned and it's a clean, air free system.
Hope you don't also believe that batteries drain faster on concrete?
 
mrbrettbaker said:
Hope you don't also believe that batteries drain faster on concrete?
Click to expand...
I am not sure what that matters with anything, but I do believe air not always ends up right at the nipple, where you hope to catch it w/out forcing fluids into the lines.
Anyway, whatever works for you.
 
The battery comment was just implying that there are old wives takes and people do things because that is how they have always been done. That doesn't mean they are right. You really should THOROUGHLY read someone's post before calling them out. I believe I mentioned that it may not work for all bikes but I do KNOW it works for the Pani. Turn the bars so the bleeder is highest. I believe ALL MC manufactures put the bleeder at the highest point they can, or else it would May NEVER bleed completely. You may have to turn the bars, or maybe your clipons slope too much, in which case I would unbolt it and get the bleeder at the highest point. There is no need to move ANY fluid if the bleeder is at it's highest point and there are no cavities a bubble could be trapped it, the air will ride they the fluid. Open your mind brother, accept there may be better ways than the ways you know. If you can't do that, at least don't knock others suggestion when you don't know if they are more qualified than you.
 
mrbrettbaker said:
I didnt read all 4 pages so excuse me if this was covered, but this issue is SUPER easy to deal with. Mine gets weak after a few weeks of sitting. I just crack the bleeder at the master cylinder about a half turn, let it sit 60 seconds while watching for fluid to rise out of the bleeder.If it hasnt I very lightly and slowly squeeze the lever fractions of an inch until I see fluid come just short of the top of the bleeder, and close bleeder. instantly like new!I thing a bubble forms in MC that is uphill of the hose to the res. All I know is it always work, no mess, no labor. Try it.
Click to expand...

I tried this method, as my clutch was starting to make N a little tricky, unless I increased bar distance.

Its better now :)
 
Can someone confirm this is solved with the 2014 bike? Or is this still an issue?
 
Stw said:
What make syou think 2014 bikes are any different in this regard??:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

I just read on another tread it still is an issue (check the new 2014 break-in tread). Meanwhile i already bought me a bleeder kit, i do it myself these days. And I am no mecanic :)

Reason why i asked: few months ago i read (on some forum)
-- this could be due to the 2 washers which seal the oilfilter, the rubbers used are not so good in taking all the heat when the engine hot and could swell. There were updated sealings coming to a dealer near you --

so, i was hoping that was the problem and if so these updated washers would have made it into the 2014 bike :)
 
mrbrettbaker said:
The battery comment was just implying that there are old wives takes and people do things because that is how they have always been done. That doesn't mean they are right. You really should THOROUGHLY read someone's post before calling them out. I believe I mentioned that it may not work for all bikes but I do KNOW it works for the Pani. Turn the bars so the bleeder is highest. I believe ALL MC manufactures put the bleeder at the highest point they can, or else it would May NEVER bleed completely. You may have to turn the bars, or maybe your clipons slope too much, in which case I would unbolt it and get the bleeder at the highest point. There is no need to move ANY fluid if the bleeder is at it's highest point and there are no cavities a bubble could be trapped it, the air will ride they the fluid. Open your mind brother, accept there may be better ways than the ways you know. If you can't do that, at least don't knock others suggestion when you don't know if they are more qualified than you.
Click to expand...
Right. So the problem of bleeding could be simply solved by putting a bleeding nipple at the highest point, and air will always positively raise up.
That would be true if there was no surface tension among fluids and air, which manifests itself both macroscopically (air bubbles) and microscopically (air vapor).
When I have to bleed, I prefer to spend some little more time, and replace the old fluid (brake fluid is cheap), and all the air trapped in it.

I think you took my comment to your initial post a bit too seriously. If that works for you, amen.
 
B1199S said:
I just read on another tread it still is an issue (check the new 2014 break-in tread). Meanwhile i already bought me a bleeder kit, i do it myself these days. And I am no mecanic :)

Reason why i asked: few months ago i read (on some forum)
-- this could be due to the 2 washers which seal the oilfilter, the rubbers used are not so good in taking all the heat when the engine hot and could swell. There were updated sealings coming to a dealer near you --

so, i was hoping that was the problem and if so these updated washers would have made it into the 2014 bike :)
Click to expand...

I highly doubt there's any difference .....its been the same for years... :)
 
Well, my 1098S didn't had it, and other 1199ers 've mentioned doing 8Kmls with no issue.
So, it's like that for years only on some bike's?
 
Bleeding about every thousand miles... Going in for warranty work, it will be addressed.. We shall see if it changes.
 
Had to do mine every 600 miles. Stopped by the dealer and he bled the entire system.
I was asked to bring the bike in when I encounter any problems so they can find the root cause.
I will report back soon.
 

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