How often do you bleed your clutch?

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I bleed my clutch when I lube my chain - every 500 miles. My clutch starts to get a bit spongy around the 400-500 mile point.

I'm on board with the "heat theory" guys. NorCal can get pretty hot, and the issue gets worse during the hot season. The issue is exacerbated when I ride up to the mountains. I believe the elevation change causes the clutch fluid to boil more and create more bubbles.
 
That probably explains why I havent had to yet. Maine has been pretty cool; I've even been running errands in jeans w/out the heat from the head/exhaust bothering me..
 
zaster said:
That sucks.
Warranty should take care of that.
Click to expand...

Dealer had it in and replaced a plastic part that was upgraded in the slave. Didn't fix the issue. Had it in again, replaced the master. Still bleeding every 600-1000 miles... Going to talk with the dealer to see what the next step is.... Hose replacement, possible slave replacement..? We shall see what they say...
 
1199 dreamer said:
Dealer had it in and replaced a plastic part that was upgraded in the slave. Didn't fix the issue. Had it in again, replaced the master. Still bleeding every 600-1000 miles... Going to talk with the dealer to see what the next step is.... Hose replacement, possible slave replacement..? We shall see what they say...
Click to expand...

Let me know about the outcome. Replacement didn't fix my issue either and now I'm out of warranty :mad:

Could be a heat issue like somebody mentioned. It seems to be worse in the summer time.
 
It's all heat related. Look at my old thread for my first Pani that DNA bought back as a result of going through 4 slaves and 5 master cylinders in less than a year.

On my Tri I now carry an 11mm in my race suit and usually bleed it every 100 - 200 miles. I ride in 80 degree temp, usually have the bike running 6-9k rpm, because that's where she likes to be!
 
Yep update on the clutch fellas- I can attest the latest recall (rubber nipple) seems to have improved, but unfortunately, not resolved the clutch issue.....

Now @ 11100 miles, after a few spirited rides & track sessions bouncing off the limiter thru 4 gears I have had to once again do the bleed :( frequency is less, so that's an improvement.

Still, got a spongy clutch, creeping bike while running, tons of bubbles in the fluid.... So somewhere still getting some air...... clearly discolored fluid means it's gettin hot, boiling hot..... System is tight, no leaks and swapping stuff doesn't resolve it....really think it's just heat related, perhaps air is being generated from boiling fluid. No big deal, just part of the ride checklist.
 
Just checking, you guys did the dishwashing foam scrub (the green thingy) on the clutch push rod and smear good quality marine grease on the clutch slave o ring ? That's what I did when I fixed and bled mine 8000 kms ago.
 
zaster said:
Let me know about the outcome. Replacement didn't fix my issue either and now I'm out of warranty :mad:

Could be a heat issue like somebody mentioned. It seems to be worse in the summer time.
Click to expand...

I'm out of warranty also, but I spoke with DNA about going out of warranty with possible issues remaining. He explained that ANY issues that were warrantied previously will be covered past warranty. If something different occurs, that won't be covered.

So go back to your dealer and get them to work with you.

Let me know how you make out.....
 
Called the dealer and was told that there some kind of a recall. It replaces a part on the slave push rod which is supposed to fix the issue.
Part is on order and I will update upon completion.
 
I've got just over 8000 kms on mine now....2 bleeds.
 
LethalBrizzle said:
What's the procedure? Crack the nipple on the clutch lever and squeeze some fluid out?
Click to expand...

Squeeze and hold the clutch lever, open the nipple and catch the fluid with a piece of paper towel or cloth. Tighten the nipple but be careful not to over tighten since it can snap easily. Release the lever and replace the rubber cap.
 
After yesterday's 270 mile ride, I noticed it was more difficult to get neutral, although it got easier once it was warmed up. Anyway I had a go at bleeding the clutch, after returning from another 70 miles, and heard some air expressed when I cracked the nipple. Not tried it yet but I guess this is the problem you speak of.
 
zaster said:
Squeeze and hold the clutch lever, open the nipple and catch the fluid with a piece of paper towel or cloth. Tighten the nipple but be careful not to over tighten since it can snap easily. Release the lever and replace the rubber cap.
Click to expand...

Oversimplified.

Use a bleed bag to keep (more) air from being entrained and bleed from the bottom up, working the lever many times until all the air and dirty fluid is purged. Speed bleeder (one way valve bleed screws) also work well

http://www.amazon.com/Russell-63950...UTF8&qid=1437077158&sr=8-1&keywords=bleed+bag
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Done another 230 miles today and clutch is much better, but took some getting used to as it now bites much further out.
 
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