How to: Change 1199 Brake Pads

Here's a quick how-to-change brake pads on the Panigale.

Tools needed:
8mm Hex wrench
8mm Hex socket and Torque wrench
Locktite Red

Parts needed:
1098S* brake pads

Note: Ducati charges the cock-in-the-butt price of $177 for a pair of 1199 brake pads. No way I was paying $350+ for a full set! Fortunately 1199 pads are identical to the ones for the 1098S, saving $270.

I got 9500 miles out of the stock pads. Could have squeezed another 1000 out, but I don't want to be stuck in the middle of nowhere with no garage, no tools and nothing but backing plates to slow me down. So I headed over to RSRs garage and we swapped the stock ones out with EBCs.

'Normal' calipers allow removal of the pads from the top, but the forged Brembos on the 1199 have a solid bridge running across the top of the pads, necessitating removal of the caliper.

Step 1:
Remove the two bolts shown using an 8mm Hex wrench.


Step 2:
Catch the washer-spacers as you pull the bolts out and set aside.


Step 3:
Wiggling the caliper slightly will push the pistons back, giving you enough space to angle it off of the rotor. Once out, angle the caliper to access the pads, while being careful not to crank on the brake lines (note: this pic was taken from the ground up. Don't try flipping the entire caliper upside down or you'll crimp the brake lines, which could result in brake failure):



Step 4:
Push down on one pad (doesn't matter which) and wiggle it out. If you notice on the pic below the pads have little 'winglets' that fit into slots forged into the inside of the caliper. To get them in and out you need to apply pressure to the pad, which pushes the 'headles man" clip (that you can see in the center of the caliper in the first photo) back and allows you to angle the pad out.



Important: Don't remove both pads at this point. Keeping one pad in keeps pressure on the little clip, making installation easier.

Step 5:
Clean the two exposed pistons, then push them back with your fingers, making sure you apply pressure on both at the same time (if you apply pressure on just one you could pop the one you're not holding out). If the pistons are hard to push back, crack the top of the reservoir, which will ease resistance.

Step 6:
Installl new pad by pushing into caliper (down/back) and angling it around so it slots in place. (By keeping a second pad in you also will be able to visually check that it's in the proper place by comparing it with the stock pad.)

(Notice winglets and the differences/similarities between the two pads)


Step 7:
Repeat process for other pad and it should look like this:


Step 8:
Reinstall caliper (don't forget the washers) and torque bolts down to proper spec. (We used Loctite Red, too.)

Step 9:
Repeat process for other side, then grab the brake and pump it until lever is firm.

Should take about 15 minutes. Might be a good time to consider changing or bleeding your brakes, too (I did it around 7000 miles already.)

Part number for 1098S EBC pads:

I like the EBC pads more than stock, but they're fairly equal on the street in terms of braking power. Modulation seems better, but then again, this is a new set of pads so it's hard to accurately compare against a high-mileage set of old ones.

One very noticeable difference is in the sound they make. The EBCs hum a little (in a pleasant way, sounding maybe even like a servo motor), whereas the Panigale ones often made a harsh, shuddering sound.

GREat post!

Thanks a lot for sharing !!!

Nice write up.. thanks for taking the time and effort.

Awesome write up and pics...Thx

Very nice.

Thanks!

350 bucks? is it a special mars rock composite?

AntiHero: Note the old and new pad are for different sides of a disc. In the picture the smaller pads are in different locations on the plate. The leading pad should be larger than the trailing pad, i.e. the smaller pad should be at the top when installed, relative to the ground.

Thanks for posting antihero. That's what forums are all about. Very helpful indeed.

Gobozo, interesting observation, good catch... I was wondering about the two diff size pads.

gobozo said:

AntiHero: Note the old and new pad are for different sides of a disc. In the picture the smaller pads are in different locations on the plate. The leading pad should be larger than the trailing pad, i.e. the smaller pad should be at the top when installed, relative to the ground.

Click to expand...

Great write up!

I will question my previous testimony here. When you look at the pictures 3 and 4 with the old pad in or next to the caliper, it appears the pads are staggered (narrow pad opposing a wide pad). I'm not sure why that would be, unless the pads were put in wrong at the factory, or replaced incorrectly, or what.

I just can come up with an engineering explanation why this would be intended.

AntiHero? Where these pictures taken as installed? Anyone else see this on their pads?

gobozo said:

I will question my previous testimony here. When you look at the pictures 3 and 4 with the old pad in or next to the caliper, it appears the pads are staggered (narrow pad opposing a wide pad). I'm not sure why that would be, unless the pads were put in wrong at the factory, or replaced incorrectly, or what.

I just can come up with an engineering explanation why this would be intended.

AntiHero? Where these pictures taken as installed? Anyone else see this on their pads?

Click to expand...

Possibly to dissipate heat at different points of the disc?

You definately don't want to do this radially. You will have dished rotors, or worse, cracked ones. The reason to have the smaller pad trailing is the leading pad always bites harder (especially at first), thus using a larger pad will reduce the pistons force in that zone.

It does appear that the factory pads were installed staggered. After 9500 miles the rotors didn't suffer any sort of premature wear and there's no cracking or warping. Being that there's no way to stagger the EBCs unless you took one pad out of one package and paired it up with another pad in the other, I'm guessing the pads were incorrectly installed at the factory.

I didn't give any thought to whether or not the small should be at the top or bottom. (Hmm, maybe that's why the brakes seem to be easier to modulate in the initial 5% pressure range?)

FYI, I just looked at mine and they're staggered as well.

Great post AntiHero, Thanks for the "how to".
Thanks for the info/heads up on the staggered pads gobozo. Sure hope to get more info about this.

Does anyone else think red loctite is bad for aluminum calipers? I'd be more inclined to use the blue loctite. I've seen red ruin steel nuts in the past....

Thanks for the how-to!!! You are definately the man Anti-hero

Just some expirence - I worn a set OEM pad out on less than 500 KM on Brno racetrack.... down to the bare metal, Damm it....

I never use locktite on caliber bolts - using the correct torque of 43 Nm - you should be fine - for further security - use lock wire as we do on the racetrack.

BTW I swaped to Lucas / TRW Dual carbon pads - works great, and last longer than OEM.

Thanks for posting, just ordered new sets for all the calipers. I won't be wearing latex gloves though....