How To: Rear Brake Bleed

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i - when i hammer down a straight and realize i missed my break maker. slam front and rear, let ABS do the rest :D

when i hop on the SV in the next session, i tend to draw 30 yd long black lines with the rear --- i should spray some oil on that disc...
 
I recently bled the ABS system on my bike using a vacuum bleed running at 21 psi. It's imperative to ensure you check the vacuum pressure holds when you draw a vacuum, else you are just drawing more air into the system. Most often air is drawn in through the bleed nipple threads. I use a sparing amount of Teflon tape on the threads of the bleed nipples. You will know if it's effective by observing the gauge pressure remaining constant. You will need to draw through are least two or three times refilling the reservoir before it runs empty. Then repeat at the master cylinder. To effectively bleed the rear caliper it must be inverted so the bleed nipple is higher than the body of the caliper itself. This is not a hard and fast guide but as long as all your connections to and from the vacuum bleeder are airtight, it is a very effective method for bleeding the ABS system.
 
topolino said:
I recently bled the ABS system on my bike using a vacuum bleed running at 21 psi. It's imperative to ensure you check the vacuum pressure holds when you draw a vacuum, else you are just drawing more air into the system. Most often air is drawn in through the bleed nipple threads. I use a sparing amount of Teflon tape on the threads of the bleed nipples. You will know if it's effective by observing the gauge pressure remaining constant. You will need to draw through are least two or three times refilling the reservoir before it runs empty. Then repeat at the master cylinder. To effectively bleed the rear caliper it must be inverted so the bleed nipple is higher than the body of the caliper itself. This is not a hard and fast guide but as long as all your connections to and from the vacuum bleeder are airtight, it is a very effective method for bleeding the ABS system.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I did it exactly this way last evening. Brake is rock solid again :)
It took me almost 1/2 lt of DOT4 until no more air bubbles appeared!
 
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Gecko said:
Thanks, I did it exactly this way last evening. Brake is rock solid again :)
It took me almost 1/2 lt of DOT4 until no more air bubbles appeared!
Click to expand...

Can you help me too?

I just replaced the rear master cylinder and as you understand no any more the rear brake :-(

Should I pull off the rear caliper or I can do it w/o it?
 
Guys, please help me to find where is the issue with the brakes.

I have replaced the master brake cylinder and followed this way to free the system from air. But when I finished I was not satisfied about result. When I press the pedal first time there is no almost the brake, second - there is but looks like flabby, third - better, fourth - strong and etc..
 
bearacer said:
Guys, please help me to find where is the issue with the brakes.

I have replaced the master brake cylinder and followed this way to free the system from air. But when I finished I was not satisfied about result. When I press the pedal first time there is no almost the brake, second - there is but looks like flabby, third - better, fourth - strong and etc..
Click to expand...

try this - take a heavy weight and tie it to the brake pedal, so the brake pedal stays depressed. leave it overnight. it should make a difference.
 
The proper way to bleed the rear brakes as appears in the service manual...no weights or voodoo involved.

Get the rear caliper as high as possible. This will place it over the height of the ABS pump. On the rear brakes, the whole system is under the ABS pump, and if you suck air in you'll never get it out until its higher than the ABS unit, which this procedure allows for.

Its also important when bleeding in this manner to have some type of shim or space which is the approximate thickness of the disk rotor between the pads. This step is pretty easy to overlook in the instructions.
 

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Today I did it. I have used the service manual. Before that I could not find this article since the search there is not perfect.

I have bleed around 150-200 ml of brake fluid and now the brake looks so strong. But I still did not test it on the road because the maintenance is continued... :)

Thank you, everyone.

Is there article how to do the same with clutch? I have a plan to replace clutch slave cylinder...
 
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Just did this tonight... I managed to get air in the system by running the reservoir dry.

If this happens to you, I am certain that you'll have to remove the rear caliper and rotate it so the bleed screw is closer to the sky/ceiling than the rest of the caliper.

Although my dog did enjoy my excessive "WHAT THE ....!?" chanting and I liked ensuring that the system is clean (only ran about 15 reservoirs full of fluid through), save yourself the hassle and get the 6mm Alan key out, if you've sucked air into the system...
 
11mm wrench and tissue to catch fluid will do the trick.
Open the bleeder valve while someone is depressing and holding the brake pedal.
Close the valve and then check the pedal pressure. Repeat this process until you get the desired result.
 
I'm about to do this since I need to install a rear brake light switch to replace the banjo bolt but I'm assuming I'll need to drain all the rear brake line fluid to get the banjo bolt out without fluid leaking everywhere?

Also does the ABS system need to be bled since air will most likely be introduced in the process of draining the line out?
 
I've tried bleeding the rear without removing the rear caliper and wasted a lot of fluid with no better result! Wasn't even thinking about it being lower than the rest of the system. Been riding without the rear brake for a few days now since it's kinda cold. I'll get it bleed out this weekend. You're my hero :) thx all.
 
I have a 2016 Monster 1200R & 2018 Panigale 959.

What brand/type of brake fluid to Folks recommend?

Thanks
 
Bumping this bad boy back up. I tried a vac bleeder like normal and didnt work. Unscrewed the caliper, flipped it and literally 2 presses later good brakes again. Done in no time.
 

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