I have bought 3 from 3 different sellers. They are all exactly alike. The reason for 3 is because they don't survivr crash (once) or sloe speed drop (once). But at that price I don't mind.
For peace of mind, i used lots of loctite on the bolts, and change the single point of faolure bolts (thr peg bolts) to locally bought reputable high tensile ones.
My current ones have been on the bike for 2 years and still looking great (to me).
The plastic endcap on the pegs tend to fall off, so try to put loctite on them to help them stay.
The knurling on the pegs tend to wear off (I use sidi vortice boots) with hard riding, so I rotate the pegs slightly every few months. With having bought 3 (to replace the right sides that I broke twice) I have a few spare pegs.
I trackdayed with them, rode hard on the road with them, commute with them, sprint raced with them, and endurance race with them. Midpack race group or mid-front fast trackday pack.
Hope it helps.
Won't be suitable for those that prefer immaculate conceptions, but seems robust and suitable enough for thise that prefer practicality and budget (I have to, I spent most of my money on oil, tyres, and maintenance on this stupid bike... ).
One caveat: it wont work with the oem rear brake light switch. You need to change the brake switch with banjo bolt with pressure sensor. They are cheap (10 buck ish) 1mm pitch on ebay and changing them is a relatively quick affair if you are good with wiring jobs. I just cut my oem and spliced the banjo one on, but if you are patient you can remove the oem without cutting.
I believe the design was based on a member here (from german, an aircraft pilot) making one for himself (and ordering a few for spares, I think. And he was fortunately fine with it. I spoke to him here a few times, and complimented the design as it works very well. Very good guy! I cannot remember his nickname. The materials used may not be exactly the same as what he designed, but like I said mine took quite an abuse and still works perfectly fine.
Please note it is designed for 1199 and may not work with 1299 due to different shape/bolt on the rearset mounting area / swingarm pivot side plates.
Have done about 21000 kms on these now. As mentioned above, my first two failed prematurely due to stupid rider errors, along with my cheap fairings. But the third one is a charm.
For position, at the highest setting they raise the feet by about an inchnover the stock position, which is perfect for comfort/race seat as they are about that much higher than stock seat, so it maintains the original posture. I do wosh mine can go up by another inch as that is my preference, but that is personal. I don't think any manufacturer currently make anything that high, though.
For peace of mind, i used lots of loctite on the bolts, and change the single point of faolure bolts (thr peg bolts) to locally bought reputable high tensile ones.
My current ones have been on the bike for 2 years and still looking great (to me).
The plastic endcap on the pegs tend to fall off, so try to put loctite on them to help them stay.
The knurling on the pegs tend to wear off (I use sidi vortice boots) with hard riding, so I rotate the pegs slightly every few months. With having bought 3 (to replace the right sides that I broke twice) I have a few spare pegs.
I trackdayed with them, rode hard on the road with them, commute with them, sprint raced with them, and endurance race with them. Midpack race group or mid-front fast trackday pack.
Hope it helps.
Won't be suitable for those that prefer immaculate conceptions, but seems robust and suitable enough for thise that prefer practicality and budget (I have to, I spent most of my money on oil, tyres, and maintenance on this stupid bike... ).
One caveat: it wont work with the oem rear brake light switch. You need to change the brake switch with banjo bolt with pressure sensor. They are cheap (10 buck ish) 1mm pitch on ebay and changing them is a relatively quick affair if you are good with wiring jobs. I just cut my oem and spliced the banjo one on, but if you are patient you can remove the oem without cutting.
I believe the design was based on a member here (from german, an aircraft pilot) making one for himself (and ordering a few for spares, I think. And he was fortunately fine with it. I spoke to him here a few times, and complimented the design as it works very well. Very good guy! I cannot remember his nickname. The materials used may not be exactly the same as what he designed, but like I said mine took quite an abuse and still works perfectly fine.
Please note it is designed for 1199 and may not work with 1299 due to different shape/bolt on the rearset mounting area / swingarm pivot side plates.
Have done about 21000 kms on these now. As mentioned above, my first two failed prematurely due to stupid rider errors, along with my cheap fairings. But the third one is a charm.
For position, at the highest setting they raise the feet by about an inchnover the stock position, which is perfect for comfort/race seat as they are about that much higher than stock seat, so it maintains the original posture. I do wosh mine can go up by another inch as that is my preference, but that is personal. I don't think any manufacturer currently make anything that high, though.
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- also the riding position is so crampy for my legs.
