LighTech Lever Review

Joined Nov 2011
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Round the World on an 1199
"LighTech is the leading manufacturer of Italian Racing Components, and provide racing products and technical support to top racers such as World Superbike Champions Troy Bayliss, Troy Corser, Noriyuki Haga, Michel Fabrizio, Casey Stoner and many more. Passion, Experience, Innovation... these are LighTech's guiding principals and can be found in every product made by LighTech. Whether you're a top World Superbike Champion or a street rider, there's a high quality LighTech component for your motorcycling needs."

Edit: My original install left a hell of a lot of play in the lever. The only apparent adjustment that could be made was for the reach. However--there are some carefully camouflaged bolts that allow you to set lever travel in the form of a headless allen bolt that is used to adjust the amount of lever travel before the brakes engage. I loosened it, threaded it in another few mms, tightened the hex bolt securing it and voila, stock-like lever travel. After making the changes, though, the brake light stayed on. There's another screw at the bottom that controls an adjustable rudder. Simply loosened that, set it to a proper engagement (and disengagement) point with the brake switch and viola.

I'll post pics, etc. detailing the install soon.
 
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Thanx for a great review. Safety is definitely something to think about when considering upgrades.
 
I'm not sure about the light tech but at lot of after market levers I found are setup for a master cylinder that is uses the 32/36 braker caliper piston and brake lines that puts out a lot more pressure to the brake pistons. The Pani uses a 30mm piston on its Monoblock 50 and it's MC is is set up for it which puts out less pressure. Even though atermarket levers look cool on the bike it won't give you the true braking feel you should be getting. Thanks for the post Antihero.
 
Pictures of your hand on the brake lever while in the riding position would emphasize your point more clearly. But the fact you took any pics and the time to warn others is the important takeaway here. Thanks Anti-
 
Pictures of your hand on the brake lever while in the riding position would emphasize your point more clearly. But the fact you took any pics and the time to warn others is the important takeaway here. Thanks Anti-

Yeah, after I posted it up I realized it would have been much better had I put on my gloves and pinched my fingers before taking a pic.

It's just insane that a reputable vendor would even sell such a product. 1 simple change is all it would take. For now, I'd say that if you are going to upgrade levers, DP is the way to go. A few other vendors products have the same issue as the LighTech levers. Too much play. Needless to say, I won't be going with LighTech rearsets.
 
Yeah, after I posted it up I realized it would have been much better had I put on my gloves and pinched my fingers before taking a pic.

It's just insane that a reputable vendor would even sell such a product. 1 simple change is all it would take. For now, I'd say that if you are going to upgrade levers, DP is the way to go. A few other vendors products have the same issue as the LighTech levers. Too much play. Needless to say, I won't be going with LighTech rearsets.

After all of your stellar photography skills displayed on your ride report you have set a high bar for yourself!

Did you contact LighTech for an answer?
 
i went CRG. they use the stock pins and feel great when ajd properly. i've always run stock levers until these and the little seat time I have w/ em no complaints. sorry yours didn't work. like said above, can you put in the stock pins to gain any feel / room?
 
Have not contacted LighTech yet. Edit: Just did.

The pins are different. Can't put the stock one in to the LT.
 
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No concerns with the DP levers beyond their price. :)

Thanks for the review/write up,
 
Totally unsat that the vendor wouldn't have put more thought into this...I'll stick with the reliable stock levers myself..thx for the review.
 
AHA! So Lightech responded. There's a headless allen bolt that can be used to adjust the amount of lever travel before the brakes engage. I loosened it, threaded it in another few mms, tightened it and voila.

I've got stock-lever-travel now. After making the changes, though, the brake light stays on. There's another screw at the bottom that controls an adjustable rudder. Simply loosened that, set it to a proper engagement (and disengagement) point with the brake switch and viola.
 
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Hmm, I never ran into this issue. I'm going to go play with them now, damn you...

UPDATE:

It's settled, you must have sausage fingers. I brake with 1/2 and don't have any binding with my blip fingers. I also remember adjusting that set screw TOO far, I locked up in the middle of the road; that was embarrassing. Luckily I had my mini tool kit to bleed it and limp home.

To the DP peeps, safety, really? Just properly adjust and maintain your bike... and knowing is half the battle. I got my set for $189 for a steal.

Sexy:

20130328_150756.jpg
 
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Hmm, I never ran into this issue. I'm going to go play with them now, damn you...

UPDATE:

It's settled, you must have sausage fingers. I brake with 1/2 and don't have any binding with my blip fingers. I also remember adjusting that set screw TOO far, I locked up in the middle of the road; that was embarrassing. Luckily I had my mini tool kit to bleed it and limp home.

To the DP peeps, safety, really? Just properly adjust and maintain your bike... and knowing is half the battle. I got my set for $189 for a steal.

Trans, i can't help but laugh....you're suggesting to someone (i'm not sure who) to not worry about safety and " to properly adjust/maintain your bike..." but it's you who didn't adjust his own brake lever properly and almost ran into a problem! :p

Funny :)