Marzocchi vs ....

I still have all my clickers on stock settings, according to the owner manual, that's -10 clicks compression and -10 clicks rebound. The owner's manual also states use a 22mm hex to adjust preload, and I already found that to be inaccurate as the preload hex nut is 19mm.

Planning to go through the Ohlins recommended +/-4 -/+2 +/-1 method and try dialing in one setting at a time. Hopefully that'll get me to a good base reference.

Before I proceed, would like some comments from anyone who's already dialed in the few clicks on the Marzocchi. How does the fork respond to adjustments? From prior experience, the Ohlins were pretty noticible with each click, the KYB Forks only responded in the bottom half (close to full damping).

Thanks

jyli19 said:

I still have all my clickers on stock settings, according to the owner manual, that's -10 clicks compression and -10 clicks rebound. The owner's manual also states use a 22mm hex to adjust preload, and I already found that to be inaccurate as the preload hex nut is 19mm.

Planning to go through the Ohlins recommended +/-4 -/+2 +/-1 method and try dialing in one setting at a time. Hopefully that'll get me to a good base reference.

Before I proceed, would like some comments from anyone who's already dialed in the few clicks on the Marzocchi. How does the fork respond to adjustments? From prior experience, the Ohlins were pretty noticible with each click, the KYB Forks only responded in the bottom half (close to full damping).

Thanks

Click to expand...

Of course where you end up will be a function of your weight, riding style and environment, so not necessarily the same as someone else. That said, I've done enough +/- testing on mine to confirm that one click is noticeable to me on both ends, even around the middle of the range. I'm a little heavier than you but still on the light side, so the bike's oversprung for me as well. But backing off the damping, I can definitely get it wallowing to the point of losing decent dive/squat control before running out of clicks. That helps soak up some of the sharper bumps, but hurts stablity entering and exiting corners. Going firmer helps the latter, but that in concert with the springs has the bike dancing over the rough bits. Running 40F/35R sag with no preload front and next to none in back, in pursuit of stable handling on less than perfect surfaces.

I think with some springs it should prove to be a pretty decent fork. Not much setup knowledge for the RAC50's with the gas carts yet; suspect anyone doing serious tuning will just chuck the internals for Ohlins kits since there's such a big knowledge base.

Save yourself a lot of headache and get a copy of "Sportbike suspension tuning" by Andrew Trevitt.

It will run you through sag, geometry and damping basics, how to set up your own baseline, and how to diagnose what you're feeling. If you choose to have a pro or someone else work your clickers it will help you accurately describe what you feel, i.e. packing, pumping, pushing, bottoming, etc.

Totally worth the $$ and you'll thank yourself later.

Or YouTube Dave Moss and there's several vids of him going through suspension. He knows the Pani well as he's set up and tweaked at least 3, including mine, for the track/racing.

CW AF 03 said:

Save yourself a lot of headache and get a copy of "Sportbike suspension tuning" by Andrew Trevitt.

Click to expand...

I been through that bible a few times front and back to setup my previous bike. It's nice to have the basic understanding and be able to gauge the adjustment yourself. Having a pro tune gets to you to a good base setup, still have to tweak it for the riding condition.