Modding my V4 for a right hand only rider

Got it one today..it was a pain in the ass..trying to Get the lower Master cylinder to prime and get the air out of it.
I ended up taking off the switch. Banjo that I had on the brake which is lower one and using the a bleeder banjo Bolt and I was able to get It to prime and get the air out of it. And it actually feels pretty cool. It feels like I've gotten maybe 30% less effort on the clutch. But still need to ride it and see what it feels like.But here's a couple of pictures of what it ended up like
The brake master cylinder feels like it's gonna have a massive amount of power in the lowest ratio.So I'm different, I'm definitely gonna have to tune that
The 899 clip on's work, absolutely amazing and there are 5°, instead of 10 like the last ones I had so the bars are sticking up quite a bit more, so I think that's going to help my back and I had to make some like a flat spot on the bars themselves. Because one of the bolts is offset, but other than that, they bolt right up no problem.

preliminary report is good.. even the lowest ratio setting once they have heat in them, the brakes are more than powerful enough, and even though it still has that mushy feeling.. theres more than enough power to stand it on the front tire. if you turn the ratio up to much holy chit the power is stoopiid, there are 26 clicks on the ratio and im at 5 in from the least powerful setting 26 being the most powerful and full out on the lever position... the clutch is at 26 on the ratio (easiest or most leverage) and 3 of 10 on the lever position. or 3 from full out.

the clutch is about 25 percent easier to pull but i can adjust the point at which i get full disengagement of the clutch..the clutch switch is removed at the harness, and so far i have not gotten any ill effects in shifting and the 2cyl 4 cyl mode still works in neutral as it did before..quickshifter works up and down but oddly i thought that the ecu would still blip throttle even if i pulled the clutch in since the switch was missing, but apparently it does not. it must be using a wheel speed signal. so other than not being able to start the bike while in gear by pulling the clutch (which i cannot do anyway) there was no problem disconnecting the clutch switch.

as far as the brake switch, instead of designing a mount for a switch on the master, im gonna mount a banjo switch at the left caliper or at the abs pump, just extend the connector on the switch. itll be a little messy to bleed but is what it is

all that being said, it feels completely fuqin alien to me, it feels like the first time i did this 15/17 years ago.. strange for sure. the levers have a kind of arc to them that makes it feel like when i pull the levers they are pulling sideways or left on my fingers.i have to run my hand farther outward on the bar so my index finger naturally lands on the brake lever when i reach out.. the index finger reaches out and to the left naturally so thats where i have to relearn to sit my hand on the bar, i may make a sleeve or spacer to put on the throttle so my hand just sits in the right position when the inside of my hand hits the inboard edge of the handgrip.

my technique of pinky wrapped on grip, next two on clutch and index on brake is not working well, since the levers are fatter and have that strange (to me) arc to them. instead of just coming toward the grip when you pull them like the factory ones, they come towards the grip and at the same time swing towards the left inboard edge of the grip, so my hand placement is super critical.

but so far so good.. honestly i would have been fine leaving it alone. since i paid for it i will use it but for future bikes i will do it as i always have i think, well see maybe after a few months i will come to love this one. this dull master will never be as cheap as my old method, always good to find new answers to old questions,

Check it out guys..looks like the heat finally got to it..

so I finally got around to modifying the rear sets to lower their position a and make it l less painful for for my ankles and left knee and it worked out .... I was off by a few thousandths and the little barrels fit a bit tight but they Still snap into place heres a short vid
I may need to make some Slighty longer toe pieces but im going to ride it for a bit to see I can get used to it to it the way they sit now then if I Can't live with it will machine the new toe pieces.
Im still getting used to the new Master cylinders but the clutch definitely feels lighter and the brake master has lethal power at just my index finger and very little pressure... but with infinitely adjustable ratio I Can really dial in the perfect amount of feedback it's a really nice piece.

.... I gotta say at first I thought I made a huge mistake by changing my formula but i am really diggin the power and the . feel/ feedback I get from this brake master cylinder

1also forgot to mention I got the switch fixed the E6800 took about 3 days to fully care but it's fully cured but not rock hard. just a little flexibility but It holds the wires and heatshrink well... the pins had to be tweaked a little after the E 6800 cured then H used some 4:1 dual layer heatshrink. really tough Stuff but Still just a bit of flexibility
I used tire pen to mark the housing to map the wire locations..

2 big Zipties to hold the wire in position and keep it from wiggling itself to death

on the motorcycle side of the connecter I added a piece of the same 4:1 healshrink to the housing and wire loom .... the adhesive really grabs onto the housing and loom and locks them together and the adhesive cmakes them almost water tight.