Need help with the shifter

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I have done the banjo swivel probably 8 times in a day prototyping the Trans Logic setup when I first got the test unit from TL. Never one time did I ever compromise the integrity of the clutch hydraulics. I have never bled the clutch or had to since I built this bike.

There is a lot of heat transfer from the engine into the clutch slave cylinder. I find if you don't bleed the clutch at least once during a race weekend, it starts to degrade fast. I see it also on road bikes once the fluid has about 5000 km or a year on it, or operates in hot conditions.
I use Putoline synthetic brake fluid now which works well, or RBF 600 on the race bikes. Bleeding from the bottom nipple to the top nipple, then a last two pumps on the bottom before wicking out any residual fluid and the clutch is good to go.
On the old 748RS we used to have clutch lever fade due to heat on the first generation of the unrebuildable slave cylinders (from 2001 on) and I ended up milling up heat-resistant spacers to stagger the slave cylinder out a bit (3mm) from direct contact with the engine which cured the problem.
Better-quality billet slave cylinders also reduce the problem. Not too sure why, but I suspect better heat dissipation and not enough cast material acting as a latent heat sink.
 
Redfire, just loosen the lower fairing enough to get access to the bottom bolt on the clutch slave cylinder (remove the rear lower screw holding the fairing to the swingarm support plate, and the screw on the rear middle of the fairing linking the plastic electronics holder to the fairing, then gently push down on the fairing until you can get an allen key in to remove the bolt)

Remove the two other slave cylinder bolts and pull the slave cylinder straight out. Don't touch the banjo bolt. There is a black plastic aligning "plug" in the slave cylinder which prevents the clutch pushrod spinning in the slave cylinder. Try to keep this in place, either with a friend to hold it, or an elastic band.

The clear nylon ring should go between the screw and the rose-joint, but the screw you have is not the right one, as the correct screw is a special flanged one with a large flange to prevent the rose-joint, pressed into the alloy housing of the shifter, from coming out of its housing due to engine heat.

Use a large steel washer the same diameter as the nylon ring and place the screw, washer and ring in that order into the rose-joint, then add a drop of red or blue Loctite to the threads, screw it into the actuation lever and torque the screw to 10 Nm.

Replace carefully the slave cylinder and torque the screws to 10 Nm with a little bit of copper grease or normal grease on the threads and refit the fairing, and you're good to go.

I also recommend copper grease on all the tiny screws that hold the fairing on, which you'll appreciate in 30,000 km when you don't have to drill out screws which have seized in place. :)



Thanks for your help.

I'm not sure if I understood correctly but the clear nylon ring is bigger than the bolt.
Am I missing something between the bolt and the arm?
5d7b51fa45b7ec70d292c1ee9f725a15.jpg


Isn't this the correct bolt? Can any one of you guys check on your 1199?

Shouldn't the clear ring stay here?
00168419e952b4685192924decab7d93.jpg


Can anyone show me a picture how is installed on your bikes?
 
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Blue Guy seems to be correct in pointing out that the bolt fitted is the incorrect
item. The bolt should have a larger flanged head to allow the retention
of the plastic washer.
 
22 responses to fix a 5 min problem. I give up. Carry on. Also if you using a quality, billet slave, an aero quality synthetic and a decent (non cast) master and you have bleed your clutch on anything but an endurance racer, then something is not right. Blue Guy. If you think thermal transfer is your slave issue the isolate the slave. You take the chain guard off which is also the slave spacer from the block and you replace that with a ceramic spacer. I have another if you want one. It will still have heat transfer from the bolts and the clutch rod but it dose lowers the overall temp of the slave. I personally didn't think there was anything wrong with a steel cable for the clutch or the throttle for that matter.
 
tnmw5yGBnPy2JHLVPOj5mdUv1n1xReNuUOoUs74lDIjoVl-QjEt-enszaVDWrfPzRa8cx9opw-xpODwHLNUEOPqDfAkOgDNoZPSr3hOg41mQy4kRjZIKXfFZfL8-kDxp4HcteQgQ-RsB-xJnMPhLx0g8zubedSJyelaF9urx_uBrRPMNMJ6-Q7ZeHnWOQcqQ-O5NcgN0YTDRnR3HoBWaIIAevGX5ROOHA4yubCB3Vag_iJfz7slPPGYNovNhuOH6VBkisZ_mA8-2qCDVpE7bNho1i2FLBEzEjUUxk3OQdkx7S-vERI3ZqEV9w-HFNj2jxL7zJTHqewdKICsN4OXtamujDDrXsGaU8suhlTjk6BYgsJCTQTCSQBW9HTrWjkVuy1n8zEppMmiTH9uo9Hm7uWf2tP07tbYhsAQrJRm8z2q2xlUhe3ZHo5uYddk897lgYHtFlFxqY3qnGf3lyd5KpCtLwmwhYxdBcPgsdW8orpQ43yHyA3l8oVGJR1hcqyl9_or9W2hXpJAagma4bXkxaguleKU8lXEuFduoAbg8h_lYZsZSkXPJ7TJ_wSfNDUj30eqTtv2j1ODGWqh4RzYf9A5p9SB6mRGJwz4fSxsugdPznYl2lPtsEMihjonfY-UqvloQItgG1LXsXuuUDS3bFJOsu0XqL1FrVOWFAbozEg=w919-h689-no




Blue Guy seems to be correct in pointing out that the bolt fitted is the incorrect

item. The bolt should have a larger flanged head to allow the retention

of the plastic washer.


Big thanks! Now I see I need to go and buy the correct bolt before trying to fix this mess.
Really appreciated man
 
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Blue Guy seems to be correct in pointing out that the bolt fitted is the incorrect

item. The bolt should have a larger flanged head to allow the retention

of the plastic washer.


Is your bike Panigale R 2016?

Maybe they came out recently with different bolts.
My bike is 1199S 2014 just got this pic from my dealer and it looks like I have all the correct parts!?!?
f36285f75bc9c61ee7185db2a023c964.png
 
yes, it looks like they have changed the bolts on some models... I wonder why :)


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2015-Ducati-1299-Panigale-S-rear-suspension.jpg


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Last edited:
For sure there are bike that have different hardware. I try not to use cap screws if possible as it limits driver choices. I use a hex head here and the Corse shift lever which has a slightly different angle than the stock piece. The bolt threads full length and i do not have to move anything to completely remove it.
 

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the easies way to get to that bolt is to very slightly loosen the clutch slave lint and rotate it outward to allow access to the bolt. Once you have re installed the bolt, rotate the clutch hose back to the original location and tighten to speck. Yes another great feat of engineering on the part of Ducati.


Bike is fixed

First of all thank you guys for all your answers.

I just did like endodoc wrote here not even a drop of oil went out.
Just slightly loosen this one
f653bbcf186e794719a76156837de1f2.jpg
 

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