Oil Filter Housing Thread damaged

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Hey everyone,

I just did an oil change on my 899 Panigale, and when tightening the M6 bolt on the oil filter housing, I noticed that I couldn’t torque it properly to 13 Nm. At some point, it just kept spinning freely.

I carefully removed the bolt, and a part of the thread came out with it, as you can see in the attached picture.

Now, I need specific solutions to fix this issue and restore the original M6 thread size. What’s the best approach?

Thanks in advance!
 
It’s probably just the threads. I never saw a coil pull out. I suppose maybe if the hole was drilled too large it could come out, you’d have to be pretty oversized though.
 
Sure looks like a helicoil. BP's right check to see if the hole size for that helicoil is correct. If it is correct clean everything carefully (dead clean no oil, use something at least as strong as lacquer thinner). Then install the replacement helicoil using high temp, oil resistant locktite. If the helicoil hole is too large go to the threaded nutsert type thread replacement. If you need to use one of these, use JB weld to set it in.
 
It looks like it was already tried to use JB weld. If he couldn’t torque it it’s most likely oversized for the helicoil.

Could you just retap it with an M7 tap? M7 tap just needs a 6 mm hole. Then you wouldn’t have to worry about securing another helicoil
 
It looks like it was already tried to use JB weld. If he couldn’t torque it it’s most likely oversized for the helicoil.

Could you just retap it with an M7 tap? M7 tap just needs a 6 mm hole. Then you wouldn’t have to worry about securing another helicoil
This is a good idea, especially is the hole is not too hosed. Just use a tap with the same pitch. The issue is the hole looks too big already. If he wants to use the same hardware probably needs a helicoil. If he doesn't care an 8 mm might work. Since it's low torque, if that hole is blind you can probably just use a splined nutsert set in locktite for 6mm.
 
I never found it necessary to set a heli-coil with loctite, or instructions for heli-coils that recommended it. Furthermore, unless you get a primerless loctite, it will never cure, since the coil is stainless steel and the fastener is plated.

I still think that's threads which were pulled out. Heli-coils usually aren't that long, especially in that size.

To the OP, what does it look like from the top and bottom?
 
I never found it necessary to set a heli-coil with loctite, or instructions for heli-coils that recommended it. Furthermore, unless you get a primerless loctite, it will never cure, since the coil is stainless steel and the fastener is plated.

I still think that's threads which were pulled out. Heli-coils usually aren't that long, especially in that size.

To the OP, what does it look like from the top and bottom?
It doesnt look like a helicoil was inserted before. This is the threads that were coming out.
Going to post a detailed picture of it later for you guys.
 
That's not helicoil, those are original threads. For future reference don't torque those bolts, just snug them tight, drill your bolts and safety wire them. My bike was race bike and by securing oil filter cover this way never caused any issues.
Cover has "O" ring for sealing, I never torque those bolts exactly for reason you are going through. As you can see there is not much metal left to work with, be very careful when drilling.
 
Use a TIMESERT they are heaps better than HELICOIL's . They fit in exactly same thread as helicoils but are countersunk and swaged into place using insert tool . Much more professional & can get different lengths to suit application.
We use lots of them in alloy housings at our work we always pull HELICOIL's & replace with TIMESERT.
They cost more but anything good always costs more .
 
A video testing various thread repair options.


Thanks. Interesting. I'd never even think about using epoxy for thread repair (other than using it to glue something else in), but it surprised me how well it performed. I've used JB weld successfully for various things over the years but a better epoxy to use for repairs of aluminum is aluminum devcon. The coefficient of expansion is pretty much dead on. JB weld is not as close so at high temperatures may want to separate. Marintek (which I've used a lot of) may be a bit closer in this respect.
 

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