Oilpressure

I will apologize for Mick Donald. You obviously are not dumb. Sorry about that. He is miserable and cranky. Has been here for years trying to chase off new people such as yourself. If anyone here bothers you just click on their ID and click ignore.

Actually Donald go look at my 5 years as a member, support and info on the board versus the last 8 months of Dons crap it will be very clear who the ...... is.

so the order of the events was first rebuild then piston jamming (correct term?). my fault.

Here in the states we say it stuck a piston

Dunno how they say it over there

Sorry guys, i didn’t mean to start a war. In the last 66 years I have experienced that people, even professionals, dont always agree. That goes for virology, economics, politics, best pressure of race tires and engine malfunctions. What I learned to do is listen to all opinions and then decide for myself.

Back to the topic: today I took the engine apart and I am not happy. Both pistons got stuck, seized or jammed in the cilinders for a moment. Besides that the left main bearing and the big end of the vertical conrod (Carillo) is damaged. They are both on the left side of the engine and the oil pump is on the right side. So I still think that this is caused by a drop in the oil pressure. But I still can’t figure out why the pressure dropped; I couldn’t find anything wrong with the lubrification system.

The panigale has 2 oil pumps. The inner pump just throws some oil in the gearbox compartiment. The outer one sucks the oil out of the sump. Pipe, level and relieve valve OK. Oil is 10W60 full syntetic. After the pump the oil goes trough the filter (new) and then trough the oil cooler (Macradiators cq Febur) so my last assumption cant be true. After the cooler the canal devides to the heads, the cilinders, the cranckshaft and the pressure switch. There are some seals and rings, but they were all OK and I didn’t find any blockage. The retour (english?) canals from the cilinder heads were open too.

The only things I can think of now are: filter blocked (new and after starting there is oil pressure), level to low ( level was on the top notch, but maybe the oil cooler wants some extra oil), clearance of bigend, main bearing and pistons (were all on factory specs before rebuilding, but I can make a mistake. Besides that all the oil canals are 3 mm and I can’t believe that a higher clearance is causing less resistance.

What did I forget?????

Doesn’t sound like you forgot anything

Other than how the oil circuit runs (lol) but you got that right now too. Hummm. Dunno...

You took the pick up apart and the screen was clean?

What brand oil filter????

What brand oil?

Did you check the level again after the initial start up?

How many liters of oil were in it?

I dont know exactly how many liters, but standard procedure at initial start up is: fill to the top notch, start and warm up till 60 degrees, wait 15 minutes, fill to the top notch, start en warm till 90 degrees, check level. After the seizure the level was still on the top notch.
I use Putoline oil and HiFlo filters (sponsored)

I am not sure what pick up and screen you mean?

The pick up in the sump. You can look in, but opening it might be better.

Yes the screen in that right there ^^^^

I only asked about the level because of your question about the cooler adding to the capacity. I think it was a question? English not your first language I get it no worries

I will buy oem filter no matter what duc charges - but that’s just me. I know the SL requires a different part number but gotta believe you had correct filter from hiflo. You smart enough to build a motor n check clearances etc. Wonder how that filter flows compared to stock?

There is a oil restrictor in the case (right after oil returns from the cooler or “oil in” if you will). I have lots of questions about that restriction and how ‘they’ (Duc) determined the size of the orfice and whether the RS motors have a different size (if any at all) but I have yet to get any answers. I think the guys that used to be here that actually built and raced these motors are either gone or moved on to v4? The only person I know with a RS is not a motor guy

I have a 1199 here that broke a rod. Broke it down at the bottom not up high where they usually break (high is usually from over rev - tensile strength failure) low is usually from drag, right? Looking at the crank I see the H cylinder big end is fed 45° before tdc and the V is fed after tdc. It’s the H that broke and I’m wondering if that had anything to do with it? Like you said the left side gets oil last and that is the V cylinder.



Can you post pix of left main and V big end bearings?

@endodoc do you have a sbk motor there with no cooler adapter plate on it?

I do, what did you need to see?

Top left hole. Oil in. (From cooler) what’s in the hole???

Not sure what you are asking. That hole passage goes to the other side of the case, to the cylinder oil squirter and out into the side case to the crankshaft center hole

Yes, it goes to everything that requires oil pressure. But first the oil has to go thru that restrictor. Mine has a m4 hex in it and it looks like it might even neck down smaller than that. I can’t get enough light in there to show you that part and I don’t have a long m4 socket to remove it



Why is that there?????

Ha yes it’s in all the cases I have even the RS numbered case

So what happens if the cylinder oilers don’t get oil to the sleeves? Is that an “assisted” design or if those clog, will the rings cook? A non precision (passive) restriction would be in place to bias the flow of that multi directional passage

I don’t think those are there for lube for the cylinders.. prolly more for cooling the pistons AND lubricating the wrist pins. Full floating wrist pins wear a lot normally (small end of rod)

I get a oil restriction to keep the thing for pumping it all to the top end at sustained high rpm but not before the crankshaft??? Restrict the top end, not the whole motor!

Yea don’t know. Agree on the jets for wrist pin oiling. That’s why I asked about a secondary service they perform (cylinder walls)

I don’t know. A lot of motors do not have the squirters and the pistons/rings rely solely on what gets by the rod side clearance

Back to that restrictor... Has anyone tried removing it?

not me.
what is about the pressure relieve valve?