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Was the pickup assembly not checked prior to reassembly? The RS pickup uses a dual filter element (which wouldn't have helped in this scenario) So new main bearings, rod bearings, crank or repair, rod needs to be looked at, etc. How about the liners? Not terribly costly but a pain in the rear none the less.
 
Yes the plastic water pump gear saga is a bit oversimplified. On the last rebuild (17,320 miles) the plastic pump gear assembly looked brand new. I suspect that the folks who have has plastic pump issues either had defective materials in the gears themselves or contamination that led to the demise of the gear material. A properly built and maintained motor isn't going to have any issues with the plastic pump gears. Additionally, keep in mind that the longevity of the pump bearing will be compromised with the metal gear. For the same reason aircraft are going to lightweight composite propellers to extend hub and bearing life, that pump bearing benefited from that plastic gear. The RS motors with the metal gears don't have the same considerations as a long life street application.
 
I don’t think you stuck a piston...

Looks like it straight welded the H rod to the crank

As far as the left main being worn yeah imagine how hot the oil was when it got to that main (more like water by then)

Can you please post pics of the liners pistons and that restrictor???
 
endodoc said:
Yes the plastic water pump gear saga is a bit oversimplified. On the last rebuild (17,320 miles) the plastic pump gear assembly looked brand new. I suspect that the folks who have has plastic pump issues either had defective materials in the gears themselves or contamination that led to the demise of the gear material. A properly built and maintained motor isn't going to have any issues with the plastic pump gears. Additionally, keep in mind that the longevity of the pump bearing will be compromised with the metal gear. For the same reason aircraft are going to lightweight composite propellers to extend hub and bearing life, that pump bearing benefited from that plastic gear. The RS motors with the metal gears don't have the same considerations as a long life street application.
Click to expand...
My reason for mentioning plastic gear thread was only due to having pictures of crap found in oil filter pickup screen...
 
The pictures of the liner and piston of the vertical cilinder. Horizontal looks exact the same. The cilinders are Nicasiled and the pistons coated. As you can see there are seizure marks, but no serious damage. The liners are not scratched, you can't even feel the marks. I think lightly hone (English?) the liners and polish the scratches on the pistons and maybe new piston rings.

Pressing the bearings out and in the case will be more of a challenge. I didn't figure out yet how to do that. Of course heating the case but I don't have a tool to press it out and in. Any idea's?

IMG_4256.jpeg
IMG_4257.jpeg
 
maybe a dumb question but the same tool is used to install the bearings and you said the motor was rebuilt. So where’s the tool that was used to install the main bearings during the rebuild?
 
This is the correct tool for removing and installing 1 and 2 pc main bearings. If you have access to materials, one could easily be manufactured on any precision lathe or you may get lucky with a bearing press kit that has a correct fitment however, this is a fairly precise tool so that would be a stretch.

It may be easy to use a bearing press kit and just modify the cup but you would still need the ability to precisely measure and you would still need access to a precision lathe but it would be a lot faster and easier than fashioning a complete tool.
 

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Dhuigen said:
...Horizontal looks exact the same. The cilinders are Nicasiled and the pistons coated. As you can see there are seizure marks, but no serious damage. The liners are not scratched, you can't even feel the marks. I think lightly hone (English?) the liners and polish the scratches on the pistons
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You are NOT to hone Nicasil sleeves !!! It’s way too thin to hone. You would be left with steel sleeve and iron ring. Don’t do it

I have polished pistons before but never coated pistons. It’s a shame the factory wants to rape us on replacement parts : (

*Pistons are ‘ok’ - Back to why it welded the crank!
 
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I have taken non coated pistons to a belt sander using a very fine belt to do the edges before (like of a motor broke a rod and the guy had a spare piston) or used 600 grit paper but polishing the skirt is dangerous because you don’t want to mess with the taper. Not to mention the shape as not all pistons are round to start with

I never cleaned up coated pistons as the coating is softer than aluminum. Prolly need to have them re coated right?
 
My bearing removal kit is based on impact not press, but I have a lathe of my own. So I think I manufacture something. I am retired and still in covid lockdown, so plenty of time.

Btw, the whole rebuilding was a covid lockdown project. The engine was OK, but after 5000 race kilometers I wanted to check it. The bearings looked like new and de clearance was OK so I didn't change them. And as I said before: I didn't realize that there was a screen inside the pick up. Expensive lesson but a serious crash is more expensive and last year there was no racing (so no crashes) as well.

Thanks for all your reactions so far
 
Got it, good luck and let me know if you need any specs on the tool or any other assistance
 
Yay I was wrong about the restrictor : )

These cases I have here are so broke lol it’s not easy to figure out the circuit

Restrictor IS definitely for the rest of motor and trans whew

Crank is not restricted yay

Still does not explain dudes big end failure.

1) Donald you said you reused all the bearings right?

2) What do you use for supporting the rods when the bolts were torqued?

3) What did you torque them to and how many degrees after?
 
I think he’s already concluded that he had a sump blockage. From what he wrote I’m concluding that he never inspected the pickup filter assembly and it was in fact compromised yielding terminal results. This is the wedge tool to torque the rod bolts to spec. You need this tool or you need rod jig or for our Harbor Freight members, a vice and some firewood.
 

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Dhuigen said:
My bearing removal kit is based on impact not press, but I have a lathe of my own. So I think I manufacture something. I am retired and still in covid lockdown, so plenty of time.

Btw, the whole rebuilding was a covid lockdown project. The engine was OK, but after 5000 race kilometers I wanted to check it. The bearings looked like new and de clearance was OK so I didn't change them. And as I said before: I didn't realize that there was a screen inside the pick up. Expensive lesson but a serious crash is more expensive and last year there was no racing (so no crashes) as well.

Thanks for all your reactions so far
Click to expand...
endodoc said:
I think he’s already concluded that he had a sump blockage. From what he wrote I’m concluding that he never inspected the pickup filter assembly and it was in fact compromised yielding terminal results. This is the wedge tool to torque the rod bolts to spec. You need this tool or you need rod jig or for our Harbor Freight members, a vice and some firewood.
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Yup, it sounds he had crap in oil pump pickup screen. If you don't mind can you please post picture what you found!?
Thanks
 
If there wasn’t a blockage when he disassembled it why is there one after reassembly?

Excess sealant?

I still doubt it was the pick up...

*Team S&S was gonna use wood but is second guessing that now!!!
 
We don't know Don, by his response it sounded like that may be the culprit.
 
Don, he clearly states that he didn’t know the pickup even had a filter in it therefore that pickup probably hasn’t been looked at since it left the factory. He clearly didn’t service it at the rebuild.
 
I saw that but if it never lost a motor before and he just went thru this one cuz of boredom how did it suddenly get restricted???

Does not add up...

Mine was clean at 7500 miles. There was only one baby tooth in it lol
 

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