Panigale 1299S doesn't start

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Do you guy's leave the vent line open or put a filter on it? I'm figuring it has to vent.


Get a barbed Y fitting from your auto parts store and plum the vent line into the gas tank overflow line. To locate it, pour some fuel into the lip (black ring with holes) of the fuel tank fill and see where it comes out. Easy.

Obviously you need to plug the vacuum return line.
 
Just a little update on this...

Did a couple hundred miles to get the first 600 mile service done and get the light come up on the dash.

Took it in for a service, they had already hooked it up to a computer the week before and reset everything but it was still doing it.

First service done, hooked back up to computer to reset again but couldn't find anything to suggest why it would be doing this.

Just been told it's a fact that these bikes sometimes won't start on the button, first time and you need to give them a bit of a wind to kick the huge pistons in to motion.

The bike hasn't stranded me anywhere but still a little disconcerting that it happens on pretty much every ride but then again, I have owned IL4's my whole life and this is my first twin so I don't know?

Bike is a rocket though, loving every minute of it.
 
Recoil - That is not true. Yes they are big pistons but they do not need 'a kick' to get them going, the bike should start on the button every time. One thing I have heard is several people say that they need wearing in a bit before the motor and gearbox loosens up so perhaps this is the problem? Now that you've passed the 600 mile mark you should definately be giving it some full throttle to get everything worn in nicely.

ps - the UK/European bikes do not have the charcoal cannister that is for the US market only due to emission laws ( in California I think but might be wrong there?).
 
Recoil - That is not true. Yes they are big pistons but they do not need 'a kick' to get them going, the bike should start on the button every time. One thing I have heard is several people say that they need wearing in a bit before the motor and gearbox loosens up so perhaps this is the problem? Now that you've passed the 600 mile mark you should definately be giving it some full throttle to get everything worn in nicely.

ps - the UK/European bikes do not have the charcoal cannister that is for the US market only due to emission laws ( in California I think but might be wrong there?).

Used to be but more states are adopting the California standards. I know state of Washington Duc bikes have the canisters.
 
Recoil - That is not true. Yes they are big pistons but they do not need 'a kick' to get them going, the bike should start on the button every time. One thing I have heard is several people say that they need wearing in a bit before the motor and gearbox loosens up so perhaps this is the problem? Now that you've passed the 600 mile mark you should definately be giving it some full throttle to get everything worn in nicely.

ps - the UK/European bikes do not have the charcoal cannister that is for the US market only due to emission laws ( in California I think but might be wrong there?).

Am I just being fobbed off by them? So far, I have been told by the dealer that sold me the bike and a dealer closer to me, that sometimes they don't always start on the button, first time.

I'm going to ring Ducati and see what they say. I do feel like it shouldn't be happening at all and it's a little disconcerting that a bike of this calibre is doing it.
 
Hi Recoil - I was just chatting to someone in the business who mentioned it could be your battery.
You can bring up your battery voltage on the bike screen from the menu before you start the bike. I think it will show ~11.8v and then should shoot up to ~13.8v when you try to start the bike as the charging system kicks in. If yours is dropping down a good couple of volts then it's possible that the battery has not had a proper charge and been conditioned properly when the bike was being prepared by the dealer.

ps - It's quite far from you but if you want a second dealer opinion that you can definately trust then try calling Snell Performance on 01420 84480 (in particular ask to speak with Tom the manager or Dave who works in the shop). I'm sure they would be happy to just give advice over the phone.
 
Hi mate, I think it's the battery also but because it hasn't shown up some fault diagnostic on the computer, they seem to think it's ok.

I've had it on a conditioner every night since I've had it ( bought it 2 weeks ago this Wednesday).

As the issue only seems to kick in after the bike is hot, I will have to bring the battery screen up when I'm out next and see what happens when I start.

Thanks for the number, going to give them a call for at least another opinion.
 
I didn't pickup on the fact it was when it's hot only. I guess that would imply some other issue :( hopefully the guys at Snell Performance can give you a useful second opinion.
 
It could still be the battery. I had a K1300S that wouldn't hot start, and it was the battery. Something about how a hot engine (or recently running engine) has more compression built up and needs greater force to get started. I'm not a mechanic but that's the jist of what the dealer mechanic told me.

I swapped the battery for an aftermarket one and the thing started in an instant every time.

Anyway, my 1299S hasn't failed to start a single time, but it doesn't always fire right up either. Anyone got a link to the charcoal canister removal how-to?
 
My bike has never failed to start but it will really struggle like in that video I posted 2 out of 3 times when I've stopped for 5 minutes +
 
It could still be the battery. I had a K1300S that wouldn't hot start, and it was the battery. Something about how a hot engine (or recently running engine) has more compression built up and needs greater force to get started. I'm not a mechanic but that's the jist of what the dealer mechanic told me.

I swapped the battery for an aftermarket one and the thing started in an instant every time.

Anyway, my 1299S hasn't failed to start a single time, but it doesn't always fire right up either. Anyone got a link to the charcoal canister removal how-to?


Go to "Guides" and scroll a couple of posts down... Anti Hero has posted a comprehensive guide. The 1199 is pictured in the thread, but it's the same for 1299. I used this as a guide for mine with no issues.
 
For those of you advocating to remove the charcoal canister...

You really don't need to remove it, just cut the vacuum line and cap it off. Problem solved.

My 14 had the hard to start issue. When I took it to the dealer to get my oil service light reset (after I did my own oil change) I mentioned the hard starting issue to the mechanic and that guys on the forum were removing the canister. He said he wouldn't remove it because of the line from the tank. So, he showed me what line to cut an cap off. Been 1800 mile since then and it always fires up no matter how hot it is now.

I have seen a few 1199s here with gas dripping from the bottom because they removed the canister. Considering how hot these things get, I'd rather leave the canister on to catch any fuel overflow.
 
Just a little update on this...

Did a couple hundred miles to get the first 600 mile service done and get the light come up on the dash.

Took it in for a service, they had already hooked it up to a computer the week before and reset everything but it was still doing it.

First service done, hooked back up to computer to reset again but couldn't find anything to suggest why it would be doing this.

Just been told it's a fact that these bikes sometimes won't start on the button, first time and you need to give them a bit of a wind to kick the huge pistons in to motion.

The bike hasn't stranded me anywhere but still a little disconcerting that it happens on pretty much every ride but then again, I have owned IL4's my whole life and this is my first twin so I don't know?

Bike is a rocket though, loving every minute of it.


The 1299 Panigale has a 12.6 to 1 compression ratio and huge pistons. Since Ducati wanted to save weight they use a compression release to partially open one of the intake valves that eases the initial load on the starter. This release mechanism lets the pistons get some rotation and inertia before they close the valve and it fires. It may be the reason why it just spins over but does not fire right away Maybe the valve is staying open too long and it has to cycle through a lot before it actually fires.. ** This design also allows a smaller and therefore lighter starter**.. Check to see that the compression release mechanism is working properly. That might be the problem

Or you could just have happened to get one like mine that has weird electrical glitches and nobody seems to be able to fix it.. I hope not..

Speedy
 
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I spoke to Ducati in Italy, made them log what I told them on my file. I've told my local dealer what they said and that I had been advised by Ducati Italy to give the bike to them to investigate and for them to consult their internal channels for feedback from Ducati.

Bike is booked in with the dealer this Thursday and they're going to spend all of Friday looking / testing, etc.

Will keep you updated.
 
the canister and pickup sensor was the problem, they changed it and now is working good. They told me that charcoal canister in the 1299 now is electronic.
 
For those of you advocating to remove the charcoal canister...

You really don't need to remove it, just cut the vacuum line and cap it off. Problem solved.

you don't have to remove it, but it's very nice to get rid of all that useless hose and ancillary crap. Mine is COMPLETELY removed; I put instructions on how to cap off the throttle bodies in that main thread.

I run a lithium battery because it saves weight, but beyond that, they just crank harder.

And I haven't had any starting or stalling issues since I got my custom map completed. Hard to start a cold (or hot) motor when you're not giving it the fuel it wants, but the fuel that the government mandates....
 

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