Real benefit Termi full system vs. Slip On?

Hi,

Still thinking about switching to a full termi
System on my 1199 S, as I currently have the
termi slip-ons.
I think I've already read every thread concerning termis twice
on here, but I'm still not sure.

Any if you who have directly upgraded from termi slip-Ons to the full System?
I'm actually only interested if the full System provides a better, smoother ride.
I don't care too much for top end performance...

Right now with the slip ons, I still got some surging issues, twitchy throttle, etc. etc.

Don't get me wrong, I can live with most of these things.. But if I do have the opportunity to sort these things out with a full system and the evo mapping, I would definitely go that route.

Any advice?

Thanks in advance

The Dragon Lady wore full Termis at birth in 2012 and she also experienced surges. Her surges were terminated after she came out from the hospital last year. I am not sure which item cured the surging exactly, but it is probably a combination of both the Pro Stock mapping and the PCV with Autotune. She is now razor sharp.

Loving my full system.

Never had a single issue, and it run and sounds great.


I did wrap the exhuast and enjoy the new CF heatshield, a hair less heat then stock.

+1 what Claymore said. I believe you're really looking for fueling improvements, that can and do come with the Up-maps which accompany the Termi exhausts. I believe this primarily because they are marketed as "off-road" only and they don't have to adhere to emissions or noise regulations. The OEM fuel/ignition maps are tuned to meet regulations around the world, and so called "race only" products are focused on best performance.

I'm partial to the RapidBike tuning modules as they are IMHO more advanced than Bazazz and Power Commander, both products I've used on previous bikes. The RapidBike Race module in particular adds ignition maps to the self tuning capabilities that use the OEM O2 sensors to make real time, continuous adjustments to your 1199s fueling. If you change mods, the system automatically adjusts to air filters, exhausts, elevation, etc on your bike, not some bike on a particular dyno in another country where that map was created.

There's no real magic, it's simply optimizing your AFR in real time, but the dyno graphs I've seen before and after showing dead straight lines instead of wild swings up and down the AFR in different parts of the rev range (and at different throttle openings) have correlated well to the night and day difference people with the system describe.

Good luck!

If you go back and review the threads regarding this matter, you will come to one conclusion.

In summary, the slip-ons are the best solution for your stated type of riding and the full system will be disappointing until you get to near maximum revs, then it will provide more power.
The slip-ons are easily the best overall solution for your needs out of the 2 options.

Perhaps you seriously need to consider geting a tune with wide band O2 sensors to be your next step whilst retaining the slip-ons.

I forgot to add that I noticed a significant improvement going from stock to the Termi slip on and up-map. I thought it was great until I rode another 1199 with the RapidBike and couldn't believe the difference. Once I got the RapidBike Race module installed there was an immediately noticeable huge jump in smoothness and after 1,000 miles of self tuning it is simply night and day. I wish all the journalists who first reviewed the bike and were underwhelmed with the throttle response (calling it "snatchy" or "jerky") would test my bike. The midrange was fattened considerably as well, and perhaps part of that was the installation of an MWR High Efficiency air filter.

Have the bike tuned on a Dyno, it will sort out any fuelling issues and will be much less expensive than buying a set of headers.

Question - If throttle smoothness and sharp reaction is desired, how close would the OP get with a 41t and maybe R flywheel? Also running in 195lo.

Xbox said:

Question - If throttle smoothness and sharp reaction is desired, how close would the OP get with a 41t and maybe R flywheel? Also running in 195lo.

Click to expand...

I am running a 42 tooth sprocket and 195hi and with everything else I have done with the Dragon Lady her throttle is both smooth and sharp. I must just always remember to apply her throttle smoothly too, especially at slow speeds in traffic as she reacts to any and all inputs with gusto.

Lightening up the flywheel will make your throttle even more sensitive exposing flaws in your fuelling if any, You must just keep in mind that the Pani is a race bike getting sedated electronically by you if you use 195lo. The most important thing to sort out is fuelling.

I did the transition from slipons to full system as I focus on track performance and i have to agree with Brad, slipons better for the street. that being said, the full system with the latest upmap and MWR filter has plenty of power under 5.5-6k, -at least as much as withthe slip ons if not more-, but then it goes deep down until 7.5-8k ( expected after months of reading on the subject), point at which it comes back up really strong! Right now I dont want to add a fueling module because of warranty concerns (my dealer wont allow) but if that is not a concern to you, by all means go full system. The full system with a proper mid range has to be AWESOME.
my 2 cents
P
BTW Claymore, what is this dragonlady thing you are always talking about??

pedrin said:

IBTW Claymore, what is this dragonlady thing you are always talking about??

Click to expand...

Eish the Draon Lady is a Lady, not a thing. Here is a pic of her. I can pull away at idle and if I open her throttle too quickly she will smack me in the face with her fuel tank. Her midrange must be about 20 horses up on a standard Pani...

LOL Pedrin, that's what he calls his bike.

what a silly name for a beautiful bike. Please don't refer to it that way in public.

Yeah, you should call it......."Ernesto".

Is there much difference between gutted stock (no flapper) and full system ??

Picked up a full system how do you keep the rear pegs the instruction manual is pretty vague I don't see any cut lines?