Rear wheel nut torque

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Joined
May 8, 2023
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Los Angeles, CA
Hi guys

I picked up a 2020 V2 recently and was looking to change the tires as it's still on the OEM pair. I haven't been able to find a service manual for this bike and have mostly been using a 959 manual. But I was wondering if the torque specs for the rear axle would be the same as the V4 or older 1299 Panigales with single side swingarms.
 
Only if the axle is the same. 1098 and up use a similar axle. 998 and down another. If the nut is the same as a v4 then the torque should be the same.
 
Could take a torque wrench to it and gradually ramp up the torque until it breaks free. Can’t imagine it being higher than a V4, which is 230 Nm
 
Agreed but it’ll get you in the ball park. Better than nothing. Or just go here: V2 - Panigale V2 Torque Values

Google is your fren @Slothful

That's a handy attachment, thanks.

I use a 4ft breaker bar to get the rear nut loose on mine, i only use a torque wrench to tighten a nut, on most big hub SSS Ducati's it's 230Nm with grease. Don't forget the grease!!! makes it much easier to get off later, and the safety clip.
 
I use a 4ft breaker bar to get the rear nut loose on mine,
wont work when they are stuck like that. Broke 4 1/2" breakers bars, with a 6' cheater pipe and 3 guys pulling on it. Those bars break around 800-900 lbs force.

My 1/2" cheap impact and a 3/4 air impact failed.

Took it to the bike shop and they put on a 1/2" good battery powered impact and it freaken popped right off. You need one that is like a 1000lbs break away force. and it will come right off
 
Are you re-greasing the threads when you put it back on? I've never had issues taking it off over the years using a cheap Harbor Freight 1/2" corded electric impact.

ETA: It's this one. It takes a few impacts but it never fails to come off.

 
I'd reference Google, but to my understanding you need to torque the nut enough to get it past the pin-holes so the locking wire ring can be seated properly. Good luck.
 
No, you need to torque it to the manufacturers spec. There are a few different holes in the hub for the locking pin. You just use the one that lines up.
 
It's been mentioned several times, but worth repeating, if it's a new bike, or you know it has been torqued to the correct specification, then index it with a paint pen. That way, when you re-tighten it, you won't need a torque wrench, it makes it fast and repeatable.

Always use the manufacturers recommended torque specifications, the subject has come up so many times and people make up their own reasons or justifications for not tightening it to the correct numbers. There must be some contingency because I've never heard of a wheel just coming loose, but why take chances?
 
There must be some contingency
Yes. They dont want you using the 4 pins the rim sits on, to keep the rim from spinning. The torque on the nut is designed to do that. Which means you can drop clutch and trash your bike, they do not care, but that wheel wont move on you at 220lb

Thats why proper torque is required. If you do not use marine grade grease on that nut you will pay dearly later. We put 900lbs of force and could not get the nut loose.

A strong impact is the only way. And a trick is to torque it to spec, and if none of the 4 holes line up, back the nut off as hair to meet the next hole. Wont change torque spec enough to worry. Going to tight, and your boned. If you have ever had to screw with a tight one, you will use caution in the future.
 

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