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I know!! Was trying to stretch gas+solid = new solid, so physics, to justify my typo - but silly thread. Like, "why is there heat to begin with on my Panigale?"
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... or how come I can't keep my front wheel down??
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lol - sadly, yes!
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Trauma - Did you happen to have a look at the photo's I posted? None of my previous bikes had rust in that location.
Can you check your pani and see if its similar?
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Yes I did, and I have had similar on my K1300S (but not my Pani). Have you asked the dealer if it is supposed to rust? As stated, either it is, or the wrong metal was used, or it was improperly coated.
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Yep just got back from the dealer. They took photos and are going to chase it up with Ducati. Apparently they cannot guarantee if anything will happen re getting it replaced as Ducati don't warrant rust damage.
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Very clever comment
I bet many didn't get it
1: It was..
2: Do you really think we're that stupid ? really ?
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1: It was..
2: Do you really think we're that stupid ? really ?
Depends, are you among the many or the few?
@ OP DarioDuc I think in various forms this has already been covered but just to recap.
I'm in in the Marine business and amongst other things build and repair ships. We call what you are experiencing "Flash rust" . This can occur very, very fast under certain conditions such as high humidity and relatively high temperature and a draft/breeze. It can literally happen in minutes, wash the bike , go in eat a sandwich and come back to find minor rust flecks. One millimetre of steel turns into 7 mm of rust, so the very fine thin layer of flash you see is really only on the very surface.
In this condition it can probably be scraped off using you finger nail. in principle this does no harm in the short term and if you ride the bike within a few days it will be scraped off the rotors by the brakes pads. Left longer term with the conditions that caused it continueing in full or part can lead to it developing thicker, going deeper and cause "pitting". Pitting is when the rust actually causes holes/indents in the surface of the rotor. That should be avoided or it will require you to either have the disks "skimmed" or "honed" by a machinist or workshop, or entirely replaced. Obviously having an uneven brake rotor with less grip area, than the heat dissipation holes only, could adversely affect your braking performance, wear and stopping distance.
Regarding WD40 , this is an oil based lubricant aswell as stopping rust, and as such applying it to your brake rotor achieves exactly the opposite of what you need, grip. As some have mentioned it would likely be ok if used very lightly followed by repeated light braking in a controlled environment. However that is a risk you need to consider before applying it.
WD40 however might be fine if you intend to not ride the bike for a long period of time, or store it. In which case just remember to remove it fully before riding the bike. WD40 would likely also be fine to apply to the outer(thin end) of the rotor, with a small cloth where the pads do not grip, as there is a groove in the rotor there which aids in heat dissipation and having that rust up could affect cooling of the rotor and thus affect braking performance.
I noted on the pics that the issue seems to be less the actual rotor but more the "buttons(?) holding the rotor in place and allowing them to float. In which case you could use some emery paper to remove the rust and then carefuly put a tiny bit of clearcoat on it. As others have mentioned anything with iron in it will rust or oxidize. However even non ferrous(no iron) metals can oxidize, so always be carefull to not scrape the coating off any parts incl Aluminium or magnesium.
If it helps I always keep a few cans of this stuff in my garage, which cleans rotors, pads etc, but also acts as a degreaser. In other words if you had applied WD40 on your rotors,brakes for storing the bike, a good clean with this stuff would get most of it off again also.
CRC BRAKLEEN® BRAKE PARTS CLEANER | CRC Industries
Any way hope that helps
I'm in in the Marine business and amongst other things build and repair ships. We call what you are experiencing "Flash rust" . This can occur very, very fast under certain conditions such as high humidity and relatively high temperature and a draft/breeze. It can literally happen in minutes, wash the bike , go in eat a sandwich and come back to find minor rust flecks. One millimetre of steel turns into 7 mm of rust, so the very fine thin layer of flash you see is really only on the very surface.
In this condition it can probably be scraped off using you finger nail. in principle this does no harm in the short term and if you ride the bike within a few days it will be scraped off the rotors by the brakes pads. Left longer term with the conditions that caused it continueing in full or part can lead to it developing thicker, going deeper and cause "pitting". Pitting is when the rust actually causes holes/indents in the surface of the rotor. That should be avoided or it will require you to either have the disks "skimmed" or "honed" by a machinist or workshop, or entirely replaced. Obviously having an uneven brake rotor with less grip area, than the heat dissipation holes only, could adversely affect your braking performance, wear and stopping distance.
Regarding WD40 , this is an oil based lubricant aswell as stopping rust, and as such applying it to your brake rotor achieves exactly the opposite of what you need, grip. As some have mentioned it would likely be ok if used very lightly followed by repeated light braking in a controlled environment. However that is a risk you need to consider before applying it.
WD40 however might be fine if you intend to not ride the bike for a long period of time, or store it. In which case just remember to remove it fully before riding the bike. WD40 would likely also be fine to apply to the outer(thin end) of the rotor, with a small cloth where the pads do not grip, as there is a groove in the rotor there which aids in heat dissipation and having that rust up could affect cooling of the rotor and thus affect braking performance.
I noted on the pics that the issue seems to be less the actual rotor but more the "buttons(?) holding the rotor in place and allowing them to float. In which case you could use some emery paper to remove the rust and then carefuly put a tiny bit of clearcoat on it. As others have mentioned anything with iron in it will rust or oxidize. However even non ferrous(no iron) metals can oxidize, so always be carefull to not scrape the coating off any parts incl Aluminium or magnesium.
If it helps I always keep a few cans of this stuff in my garage, which cleans rotors, pads etc, but also acts as a degreaser. In other words if you had applied WD40 on your rotors,brakes for storing the bike, a good clean with this stuff would get most of it off again also.
CRC BRAKLEEN® BRAKE PARTS CLEANER | CRC Industries
Any way hope that helps
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Damn, this thread peacefully went away like a dumpster fire... And look who resurrects it!
It's physics Trauma! Physics... Get some WD40.
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I know, I'm sorry. I walked by them this afternoon, and just couldn't help myself. Bad Trauma, bad.
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I know, it's that whole scorpion and the frog thing
+1
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