Sachs Spring Source?

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Jan 22, 2012
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Been looking for a replacement spring on the rear of my base, since for street use it seems appropriate to see what it feels like resprung before going to a TTX. Tried some of the usuals (Kyle, Racetech, etc.), but no one has anything for the Sachs shock. Ohlins all day long, but that's step two... ;)

Anyone have a source they'd like to share? Thinking around an 8.5kg (83N) would do the trick.

EDIT: Never Mind - Ohlins Spring inbound.
 
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Been looking for a replacement spring on the rear of my base, since for street use it seems appropriate to see what it feels like resprung before going to a TTX. Tried some of the usuals (Kyle, Racetech, etc.), but no one has anything for the Sachs shock. Ohlins all day long, but that's step two... ;)

Anyone have a source they'd like to share? Thinking around an 8.5kg (83N) would do the trick.

EDIT: Never Mind - Ohlins Spring inbound.

Sent Steve B a PM but wanted to see if anyone else has had any luck just replacing the spring on the Sachs unit. I heard the stock spring is ideal for 8th graders.:) I'm 235lbs.
 
No has anyone had luck finding one at their dealer? I assumed if they could sell me one they would have suggested it when they set the SAG.
 
Answered the PM, but for general reference your dealer should be able to order an Ohlins spring for you to fit the Sachs. All they have to do is call Ohlins. FWIW, the base comes with a bit softer spring in back than the S does, at 85N vs 90N. I ended up with an 80 since the stock one wasn't terribly far off for my schoolboyish 165lbs in gear ;-), just had to run a bit too much free sag to get the loaded sag right. Went with 9.5N in front versus the stock 10.0N.

Haven't had a chance to change them yet, but am sure they'll be an improvement at both ends. Will post up when I get them on and some fiddling time in.
 
Toss the entire shock for a TTX.

Well yes, hitting the Nuke button is always an option. However, there are plenty of measured responses available first that can address specific concerns at a fraction of the cost. Is springing correctly for weight not a proper first step for anyone to take? And what specifically would you tell the OP that a TTX is going to do for him in exchange for his extra $1K and change over a spring? Jus' askin'... :rolleyes:
 
FYI: My early production base just had the entire fork recalled. Just trying to save you a step. Might want to confirm yours doesn't fall into said situation.
 
FYI: My early production base just had the entire fork recalled. Just trying to save you a step. Might want to confirm yours doesn't fall into said situation.

I'm asking about the rear suspension Sachs spring, not the forks.
 
If you don't mind, can you let us know what the upgraded spring cost is approx.? I am in the same boat weight wise and was searching all over for a rear spring as well. Before I asked the dealer I would be curious what you had to come out of pocket. Thanks.
 
Ohlins rear springs go for about a hundred bucks, give or take, just for the part. Can't help you on install labor but it's about as easy a swap as there is.
 
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FYI: My early production base just had the entire fork recalled. Just trying to save you a step. Might want to confirm yours doesn't fall into said situation.

My rear Sachs was replaced by the dealer at the first service under warranty for no dampening control . New one seems ok at best .
 
Springs

Hi Steve,

Can't wait to read your report after the change. I am in the same boat.
 
OK; got in about 150mi yesterday with the lighter springs in. My intent was to get the bike more compliant and stable over uneven road surfaces; with the stock springs, the bike tended to get upset too much in twisty bits by pavement cracks and ripples, and would skip over the rougher bits. From the outset, I'd felt the bike was working too much on the springs and not enough on the damping. What you want is for the thing to sit down in its travel and feel fluid but stable - not diving or squatting too much, but pivoting around its center of mass and not from either end. Left a bit to be desired stock...

I'm 165lbs in gear, so I didn't need huge changes. I only went one rate softer on both ends (9.5Nfront/80N rear) versus OEM 10/85 (for the base; S & R models are 10/90). Ballparked the front sag at 40mm and the rear at 35mm for road use, and back to stock 10/10 out at both ends on the damping to start with.

Right off the bat, the static vs loaded sag looked much better now with the lighter springs, telling me the rate was better, as expected. With the OEM springs, I'd had to run too much static sag to get the loaded sag right, which is a dead giveaway the springs are too stiff. FWIW, I always back all my damping adjusters out fully to set sag so you get a better measure of where the spring wants to settle. On the road, the increased compliance was immediately noticeable; not a lounge chair ride of course, but you don't want that anyway with something that goes and stops as hard as a Pani. I prefer the rear link on F so it's still firm out back, but it moves now instead of bucking. Had picked out some particular bits of road to test on, nice twisty bits of mountain road that would be awesome if not for being the worse for wear from the last few winters. Good pavement in general, but with plenty of relatively minor cracks, dips and bumps to test the compliance.

Ran the damping up and down enough to tell that for my weight, I had enough range to work with in terms of general chassis control, but the low speed versus high speed damping on the OEM base suspension is not fantastic. No surprise there, and I expect a more digressive valving setup would help, but it's quite liveable now with proper springs in. As Homer would say, DOH! ;)

Also took the opportunity to play with ride height a bit. Had already dropped the front 3mm from stock (8mm fork showing vs the stock 5mm) to quicken the turn in and load the front more, but wanted to see how the bike felt lower overall. So I took the front to 10mm showing above the triples (about as far as you can go without fender/fairing clearance issues on the base), and shortened the shock 2.5 turns, which is 2.5mm or 5mm of ride height. Net effect was 5mm down at both ends from stock.

I tend to favor my bikes a bit on the low side as it increases stability at speed, and that proved true again here. I like it so far, and you can feel the rear squatting a bit more under accel, but that's going to be a function of the new spring as well. Worked the brakes hard enough to float the rear at speed and am getting full fork travel now, which I wasn't before.

Next step will probably be to take the rear a wee bit higher since the front's on the slow side (imho) with it back to stock attitude. Likely will raise the oil height in the front just a bit as well for dive and bottoming resistance so I'm not relying on stiff comp damping too much for that.

All in all, bike rides and handles better now on the roads I'll be using it on. Success!
 
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that's quit a extensive setup...
do i understand correctly that the front Marzocchis dive all the way down under heavy braking?

also : did you try moving from Fixed to Progressive on the linkage?

tx
 
that's quit a extensive setup...
do i understand correctly that the front Marzocchis dive all the way down under heavy braking?

also : did you try moving from Fixed to Progressive on the linkage?
tx

I wouldn't say I bottomed the forks fully, but very close. And that was from purposefully grabbing the front brakes hard enough at speed to float the rear wheel at close to 100mph - a threshold braking test, basically. Just wanted to test an extreme example to see how the forks responded. With the 10N OEM springs, doing the same thing would have left a good 15+ mm unused, and indeed I'd never seen my zip tie closer than that to full travel. I think a small increase in oil height will give me just enough of a ramp-up of effective spring rate at the end of travel to eliminate any worries of harsh bottoming under extreme conditions.

As for F vs P, I tried P with the stock spring and didn't like it. With the shock being oversprung for me already, it did make the ride a bit better in the first half of the travel, but then it just got even more oversprung in the latter part of the travel. With the stock fork springs in, it felt a bit unbalanced to me that way, and the rear seemed to sit down and then pack up. I think with it on F and the right spring on, you're going to get more consistent feel throughout the travel. It will ride firm on the street though, and everyone used to riding streetbikes with progressive links will notice it even with the correct spring rate. That's just what a linear link feels like.

I'll try P again at some point with the new spring just to see how it works. Maybe reduce the sag to keep it up in the softer part of the rate, which I'm thinking of doing anyway now; not much, maybe 3-5mm less, bit more if I'm running the link in P.
 
Been looking for a replacement spring on the rear of my base, since for street use it seems appropriate to see what it feels like resprung before going to a TTX. Tried some of the usuals (Kyle, Racetech, etc.), but no one has anything for the Sachs shock. Ohlins all day long, but that's step two... ;)

Anyone have a source they'd like to share? Thinking around an 8.5kg (83N) would do the trick.

EDIT: Never Mind - Ohlins Spring inbound.

Hi
Struggling to find a replacement spring for the sachs rear shock.
Does "Never Mind - Ohlins Spring inbound" mean that the ohlins spring fits the sachs shock please?

thanks
-Pete
 

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