Stahlbus Bleeder Valves for my Ducati

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Danger Close MFG said:
Were the bleeders on the front calipers hitting spots on the wheel? That was my concern when I put on the Master Bleeders a few years ago. Was hoping it did work so I could order them. So the Banjo bleeder is what they recommended to you after they did not fit?
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They cleared the wheel, but getting a hose on the bleeder, especially a tight fitting 3/16” ID hose, was difficult, even with the OEM bleeders.

They said they have a 13mm bleeder instead of the 16mm ones the chart lists for the Panigale V4, but wanted me to measure the OEM bleeder from the top threads to the tip.

Right now I have a really good lever feel which I attribute to the Ducati procedure where you press the pistons in with the bleeder open. I don’t think this would work with any type of speed bleeder, maybe if you opened it up more of put a vacuum on it. Obviously you have the caliper off using this method, so the position of the bleeder doesn’t really matter.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
They cleared the wheel, but getting a hose on the bleeder, especially a tight fitting 3/16” ID hose, was difficult, even with the OEM bleeders.

They said they have a 13mm bleeder instead of the 16mm ones the chart lists for the Panigale V4, but wanted me to measure the OEM bleeder from the top threads to the tip.

Right now I have a really good lever feel which I attribute to the Ducati procedure where you press the pistons in with the bleeder open. I don’t think this would work with any type of speed bleeder, maybe if you opened it up more of put a vacuum on it. Obviously you have the caliper off using this method, so the position of the bleeder doesn’t really matter.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the all the updates on this have a good one.....
 
Looks like speed bleeders and dry connects are the new clear clutch cover... Poseur parts.

How many times are you bleeding your brakes per week to warrant them? Or disconnecting the system?

Seems a faff when regular bleeders are do the job and are simpler. Do the bleed right and with the proper fluid and method and you’ll have proper brakes .
 
Paul G said:
So whats the story with speed bleeders? Must be situation specific, my brakes and clutch just dont need bleeding between fluid changes
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As a side note speed bleeders are a different type of product from the Stahlbus bleeders. I haven’t read good things about speed bleeders per se. I haven’t typically bled between yearly fluid flushes. I just like how it simplifies the task. I also didn’t like the fit of the oem bleeders in the masters. This solves that problem since I could use sealant on the main threads and only turn the inner bleeder portion. I was trying to get a better lever feel without moving up to RCS or some billet job.
 
SuperDomestique said:
Looks like speed bleeders and dry connects are the new clear clutch cover... Poseur parts.

How many times are you bleeding your brakes per week to warrant them? Or disconnecting the system?

Seems a faff when regular bleeders are do the job and are simpler. Do the bleed right and with the proper fluid and method and you’ll have proper brakes .
Click to expand...

Please link an original thread you created which had a positive impact on the community and was perceived by the members as being useful.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
As a side note speed bleeders are a different type of product from the Stahlbus bleeders. I haven’t read good things about speed bleeders per se. I haven’t typically bled between yearly fluid flushes. I just like how it simplifies the task. I also didn’t like the fit of the oem bleeders in the masters. This solves that problem since I could use sealant on the main threads and only turn the inner bleeder portion. I was trying to get a better lever feel without moving up to RCS or some billet job.
Click to expand...

To do a good bleed use silicone hose 1/4” ID (fits the best and more flexible than vinyl), Endless fluid (high compressibility), and the standard process in the service manual. Easy as. An annual or 6 month brake flush is all that’s needed for the occasional track day rider. If you’re boiling brake fluid at a trackday, you’re doing it wrong. I could see going to the Stahlbus bleeders and Staubli connectors if one was racing. Then it’s bleeds and cleans every race weekend.

But in reality, the average (and even advanced) track day enthusiast has no need for an aftermarket master or any other fancy bits which in this instance is a waste of money. It boggles my mind that people have gone straight to a $5k+ WSBK brake system when a simple OEM master H-line direct to calipers hasn’t been tested. Again, racing is a whole other ballgame.
 
SuperDomestique said:
To do a good bleed use silicone hose 1/4” ID (fits the best and more flexible than vinyl), Endless fluid (high compressibility), and the standard process in the service manual. Easy as. An annual or 6 month brake flush is all that’s needed for the occasional track day rider. If you’re boiling brake fluid at a trackday, you’re doing it wrong. I could see going to the Stahlbus bleeders and Staubli connectors if one was racing. Then it’s bleeds and cleans every race weekend.

But in reality, the average (and even advanced) track day enthusiast has no need for an aftermarket master or any other fancy bits which in this instance is a waste of money. It boggles my mind that people have gone straight to a $5k+ WSBK brake system when a simple OEM master H-line direct to calipers hasn’t been tested. Again, racing is a whole other ballgame.
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totally agree, nothing wrong with a bit of bling but you dont really need it unless you're chasing 1/10ths
 
SirJAG said:
I'm pretty sure my clutch needing bleeding every damn ride is b/c of the bleeders..ive already put some tape on the threads, but that made no positive impact.

very much looking forward to your review post install...what did you pay total?

Jag
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My friends 23 has this problem due to the self bleeding clutch master. Apparently it likes to bleed air in. Which means the port in the master stays open at top of stroke. And there's no lever/piston adjustment so you can fix it. I have never in my life on anything (cars included) had a bleeder leak without some obvious problem. Check the bleeder seats but that's probably not the problem.
 
SuperDomestique said:
Hahaha so you’ve conceded that it’s more boy racer bling than necessity. Andy is going to be pissed that your aiming to take his factory seat
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SD it's boring when you're snowed in. SFV4 is trying to relieve cabin fever with some trick parts. Snowed 12-16 inches here last night and about 8 feet in the Sierras.
 
baggerman said:
SD it's boring when you're snowed in. SFV4 is trying to relieve cabin fever with some trick parts. Snowed 12-16 inches here last night and about 8 feet in the Sierras.
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Haters gotta hate 🤷‍♂️ 😂

I’m skeptical of these reports of air in either the brake or clutch system. If there was a glut of these problems there’d for sure be an NHTSA recall
 
I don't think it's at a recall level. The bike stops as it should, it's just the lever feel isn't great.

I've never had a better lever feel. I don't think RCS this and that or a H hose is necessary given my experience documented in this thread. I think the key takeaway is the Ducati bleeding procedure. Fancy bleeders merely simplify the process.



I highly suggest skipping to the 4:27 mark and starting there. IMO, this made the biggest difference.

@SuperDomestique can we move forward amicably? This toxic nonsense has to stop, it's killing the forum.
 
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