Stock battery is absolutely garbage!

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I will take a picture waiting on a lower fairing shipper cracked mine. Was going to do battery and lower faring all at once.

Heres the electronics box to tide you over Kev.
 
That’s so cool. That’s what all the mclarens look like when u remove panels. Looks great
 
Gonna need to zip tie those wires.
gJFS7hQ.jpg


I will take a picture waiting on a lower fairing shipper cracked mine. Was going to do battery and lower faring all at once.

Heres the electronics box to tide you over Kev.
 
Haha yeah zip tie those wires up and leave the zip ties long, don’t cut them. That’s the Italian way

that is actually how they do it on the Maserati’s
 
gJFS7hQ.jpg


I will take a picture waiting on a lower fairing shipper cracked mine. Was going to do battery and lower faring all at once.

Heres the electronics box to tide you over Kev.

My Gawd .. so much carbon the previous owner put on it ....
 
Even with a new lithium battery, my bike stalled today when coolant temperature was 200F+. Is this a battery heat soak issue?

Battery was showing 12.9V when the bike won't start and then was showing 13.3-13.9V on dash when running after I jumpstarted it. Or is this a failing alternator?
 
Definitely not the battery if you just swapped it to a new lithium.

Possibly a regulator rectifier problem? Maybe overheating? R/R problem would prevent the battery itself from charging.
 
Can the EVAP canister cause starting/stalling issues when the bike runs hot?

Happened to me one time after racing my buddy’s super cars... couldn’t hold idle

I took the EVAP out and had my ECU flashed and it hasn’t happened to me since

But from what I’ve read it seems like evap canister is to blame. Mine was full of gas when it came out. Nothing but problems.

do it:
 
ok seems like even with a new lithium battery it can't start if the voltage is below 13V when shut off. Is this a starter/regulator issue?
 
Check voltages at regular rectifier and starter if I can. Can’t believe it needs more than 13V to crank. Might pull out the stator to check as well
 
Wish I had your “can do” attitude. My bike was in the shop 4 times in the past 3 months... I ride it alot tho
 
Check voltages at regular rectifier and starter if I can. Can’t believe it needs more than 13V to crank. Might pull out the stator to check as well

This. The regulator/rectifier sounds like it’s the culprit. Have you measured your draw on startup as well?

Also, thinking outside the box - could be a loose connection somewhere but unlikely.
 
Try this: I am having similar issue.

I just went out checked R/R and it tested fine. Then I looked at my coils. I wasn’t sure is the coil wires were seated properly but I pulled the plugs wires off, cleaned the contacts with electrical contact cleaner and put the wires back in. Bike fired right up. No load voltage 12.8v, with ignition on 12.5v. I’m going to leave bike off tender for night and see what happens in the morning.
 

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