TPS error with rain?

Mick1976 said:

Hey man did you have your throttle apart or add spacers recently? I would be looking at the throttle housing next. The 99's reset TPS when ignition is on each time. If the throttle is not going to close all the way or is sticking it will cause TPS errors and won't start.

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Haven't touched the throttle or add spacers, I also tested it with melcodiag to check it operates smoothly from 0 to 100 on all points and looks fine, stays at 0 as well with untouched.

I put the new harness back again, and started to behave normally, was able to start it for about 5 minutes with no issues, felt pretty good. then I assembled just the necessary to test it on the street, put my helmet, sit on the bike, turned the key on, and ENGINE error.. again, same H TPS error as usual. I also notice that each time this happens, when I turn the key off, the H TPS opens and closes, the V TPS doesn't, and then the V TPS will continue to produce sound, like if it is still getting some voltage when the bike is on, for about 1 minute. When the bike is fine this doesn't happens, everything will just shut off after both TPSs do the opening and closing when the key is turned off. Also it's curious that the error shows it is the H TPS, when it's actually the vertical that doesn't work sometimes, however I believe melcodiag reads them backwards.

Does all this sound like a possible bad ECU? or what else could it be? is there any complication on swapping ECUs on these bikes?

Ok so sounds like the throttle is eliminated so since the harness you got from me is solid I would be checking the main harness back to ecu so means checking all wires making sure nothing is intermittent. Highly doubt the ECU is bad but they can be swapped but the part #'s need to match.

nesmsm said:

Haven't touched the throttle or add spacers, I also tested it with melcodiag to check it operates smoothly from 0 to 100 on all points and looks fine, stays at 0 as well with untouched.

I put the new harness back again, and started to behave normally, was able to start it for about 5 minutes with no issues, felt pretty good. then I assembled just the necessary to test it on the street, put my helmet, sit on the bike, turned the key on, and ENGINE error.. again, same H TPS error as usual. I also notice that each time this happens, when I turn the key off, the H TPS opens and closes, the V TPS doesn't, and then the V TPS will continue to produce sound, like if it is still getting some voltage when the bike is on, for about 1 minute. When the bike is fine this doesn't happens, everything will just shut off after both TPSs do the opening and closing when the key is turned off. Also it's curious that the error shows it is the H TPS, when it's actually the vertical that doesn't work sometimes, however I believe melcodiag reads them backwards.

Does all this sound like a possible bad ECU? or what else could it be? is there any complication on swapping ECUs on these bikes?

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When this problem started some months ago, I suspected from the throttle, getting wet and noticing that seems to be missing the pin, I can easily twist the whole piece. Do you think this could be an issue considering it is throwing good readings on melcodiag?

I checked continuity from air box connectors to ECU connectors and looks perfect. 0 resistence on all contacts. I can try to check this again maybe moving some cables.

Still something strange is that the problem seems to go away if I left the bike for a while, I checked it just now and is not throwing the error, I have not touched it, just let it sit. Can´t start it since is late but it will not suprise me if it shows the error after I start it or if I move it around.

You shouldn't be getting 0 ohms, pretty sure it should be about 1.6 ohms (if my memory is right).

I had a MAP sensor pin with about 15 ohms that was causing the ECU to think the throttles were out balance which caused them to be out. If you're getting 0 ohms I'd be checking again and ensure the multimeter scale is correct.

Disco said:

You shouldn't be getting 0 ohms, pretty sure it should be about 1.6 ohms (if my memory is right).

I had a MAP sensor pin with about 15 ohms that was causing the ECU to think the throttles were out balance which caused them to be out. If you're getting 0 ohms I'd be checking again and ensure the multimeter scale is correct.

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What is getting 0 ohms is the continuity from the connector pin on the airbox to the pin to the ecu connectors, I haven't tested resistance on the tps, map or other sensors.

What was your error? I'm getting P0221 Horizontal cylinder throttle position error [TPS 2 - Difference between track 1 and track 2].
So your MAP problem was causing a throttle body error? What should be the good range for the map? Maybe I can check mine

I have Tuneboy so could see the vacuum difference caused by the MAP error when viewing the vacuum screen only. I didn't see a code as I don't have any diagnostic gear. Just pointing out that 0 ohms isn't right and sometimes a pin can be bad or. Corrosion

Usually when there is a MAP sensor issue the "engine light" on dash will pop up. Now if a MAP sensor electronically backwards bike wont start but its impossible cause the wiring harness does not allow that to even happen since the connectors/wires would not reach. I still think you got a broken or corrosion on a wire/pin going into one of the connector blocks going into the ECU. You mentioned having the bike in the rain then started having issues after that so unfortunately with the quality of the wiring harness's on these bikes that is why there is so many electronic failures on these things. I started making my own harness's long time ago never had any issues after that.

I will keep checking all cables from airbox to ecu and to aps, not sure if there is any other cable ends that I could test?

Wanted to share a video of the tps readings, first 10 seconds you can see the readings oscillating while off, next 10 seconds opening the throttle, then engine running with very random readings, it will eventually show the engine error and disable the throttle after a while.

I've tested continuity on all 17 pins going from the airbox to the ECU connectors, continuity looks perfect with every single one, using the new harness.

Today the issues are only while the bike is running, just as the video.

I don't know what else to think or try...

Replace the H TPS and see what happens

A pair of TPSs are on the way

I´m so sorry to have to continue this thread..., and again thanks for all the help here.

So first, I disconnected basically everything and connected it back, next day, the bike started fine and so far after some days, no more TPS errors, so I took it for a ride, and immediately noticed that now the engine will try to stall every time I hit the gas like above 40-50%, checked back with melcodiag and shows """""P0204 [ECU] Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 4... Status: 28 """"", so looks like a have a V4 now lol.. I guessed that could be a shower injector, so took all 4 injectors out for service, they are all good. The ebay Throttle bodies arrived, so installed them with the serviced injectors, reset through melcodiag, and the same, I can ride the bike but won't let me go with more than 40-50% gas. Rechecked all pins from injectors straight to ECU connectors, continuity is perfect.

Before all this I also changed the spark plugs and wasn't able to test the bike to make sure they are good. Do you think a broken spark plug wire could cause something like this? or a new spark plug bad from factory? I used MAR9-J, and checked that the gap was within spec.

Would like to know what you would do next please... because I have no idea.

Thanks!!

Generally if you can't go over 40/50% throttle its the map sensor.

MAP sensors are located in the electronics holders behind the upper main side fairings. They have a 2 pin connector plug and a compression clamp hose fitting. The TPS sensors are located on the throttle bodies in the airbox. They are affixed to the throttle body housing with 2 tamper proof Torx screws and have a 4 wire plug at the top. They are black in color with a cad plated U shaped retainer bracket. They are removable and replaceable

Just passing by to let you know that replaced the barrel connector with separate normal connectors, all issues solved.

Apparently there is a desing issue with this bike, rain will fall on tank and slip on the right side behind the ECU, and will get to the barrel connector, if this is not perfectly sealed humidity can get inside the pins from the back or the connector itself, vapor can get there there as well if you wash the bike with water then turn it on for a while. The connector was getting sulfated again after 3 months of cleaning it approximately, while on rainy season (Only dry and rainy season here in Costa Rica), so yeah, stock panigales are not made for Costa Rica

Thanks to everyone!

Hi guys, New here and been following this post as I have an 1199S with same issue. Bike sat since 2017 because of this issue. Owner brought it to me and i quickly found out this common issue. I have swapped Map sensors, Cleaned corroded TPS relay pins & cleaned out the airbox harness main plug, also unclipped the cable ties that looked like they were chocking wires to death. Bike ran flawless for 3 whole weeks.

Owner hit some rain recently and issue started again. My question to "nesmsm", How did you replace the barrel connector with 'normal connector' ? Anyway you can share more details? Also where can i get my hands on this tasteful looking 'Milspec Harness' . Thanks for any and all help

daily_wrencher said:

Hi guys, New here and been following this post as I have an 1199S with same issue. Bike sat since 2017 because of this issue. Owner brought it to me and i quickly found out this common issue. I have swapped Map sensors, Cleaned corroded TPS relay pins & cleaned out the airbox harness main plug, also unclipped the cable ties that looked like they were chocking wires to death. Bike ran flawless for 3 whole weeks.

Owner hit some rain recently and issue started again. My question to "nesmsm", How did you replace the barrel connector with 'normal connector' ? Anyway you can share more details? Also where can i get my hands on this tasteful looking 'Milspec Harness' . Thanks for any and all help

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Sounds like might be the same issue, you need to replace the barrel connector by cutting the female barrel end on the airbox harness (you can get cheap ones to mess around on ebay) and cut the male barrel end on the main harness, and attach regular connections of your preference, I've seen some heavy duty barrel connectors on ebay but I'm done with fancy barrels so used generic ones.

You can seal the hole with some silicone or any other cool gum product, or reuse the barrels just to pass the cables through. I must say I got the idea from @Khmer1199, he did something like that on that connector as mentioned in the video comments here (video is not related, check comments where he explains what he did, kudos to him as he answered all my questions there) ,

Attached the picture of how it looks now.

And @Mick1976 is the one for the Milspec harness

I thought it'd be something like that. So i just need to get some pigtails and make my own. I prefer trying out the milspec if possible to get one, would like to keep her looking OEM. Thanks a tonne @nesmsm

daily_wrencher said:

I thought it'd be something like that. So i just need to get some pigtails and make my own. I prefer trying out the milspec if possible to get one, would like to keep her looking OEM. Thanks a tonne @nesmsm

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Sounds good I would prefer OEM look as well. If you go with the milspec airbox harness just make sure you seal somehow the external barrel connector from the main harness, the male part, because I believe thats the one that actually gets water inside, not the small airbox harness.

nesmsm said:

Sounds like might be the same issue, you need to replace the barrel connector by cutting the female barrel end on the airbox harness (you can get cheap ones to mess around on ebay) and cut the male barrel end on the main harness, and attach regular connections of your preference, I've seen some heavy duty barrel connectors on ebay but I'm done with fancy barrels so used generic ones.

You can seal the hole with some silicone or any other cool gum product, or reuse the barrels just to pass the cables through. I must say I got the idea from @Khmer1199, he did something like that on that connector as mentioned in the video comments here (video is not related, check comments where he explains what he did, kudos to him as he answered all my questions there) ,

Attached the picture of how it looks now.

View attachment 40131

Click to expand...

Those connectors are called “ weatherpack connectors” and are used in automotive, heavy equipment industry…. for many years. Make sure if you get those connectors that package includes rubber plugs which do sealing job and go on the wire when pin is crimped, also proper crimp pliers are must!!!