V2 Panigale stock suspension setup query

E

ewcha2

Joined Apr 2024
6 Posts | 0+
AU
Hi all,

I have recently taken the bike to a suspension specialist for a setup.

I weight 78kg and 174cm tall.

Following the setup I took the bike to a few mountain runs and found that it was very unstable (front end) - bar wobble out of turns and during poor ground condition. Because the front felt a lot more stiffer, it was very difficult to turn in (having the fork to compress) before the turn.

I suspect the setup was aimed more for the track and less for the road but it just feels way too harsh and unsafe for the twisties.

I have tried to dial back the compression setting (softer) but still find the front being too stiff/unstable.

I was told by the specialist that the settings can't be shared, but as a starting point I felt that the preload could be too aggressive and wanted to hear your thoughts.

The front stock preload is 7.5 and adopted setting is doubled.

The recommended front tyre pressure is also 2 psi higher than stock, which may have also attributed to the gripping issue on road - I have gone back down to stock 36psi due to the stability issues now.

Again I stress that the setting could work on track for more agressive rides, but just wanted to hear from others what would be a good in between setup for preload, compression and rebound.

Cheers,
 
Your specialist sounds like a bit of a knob, this is not magic or rocket science. Buy yourself a book on suspension setup or read the many threads here on what to do.
Essentially you need a baseline setting and a notebook, one that you can refer back to anytime you make a change to the following variables.

  1. Conditions, and pace you expect to be riding at. Fast riders need a stiffer bike for example
  2. Your weight (and height), shorter riders do not weight the front of the bike therefore need less spring. if you get porky youll need a bit more preload
  3. Condition of the bike, suspension, tires etc
  4. Tire pressure, this so dependent on speed and if you are fast on the street do not go over the recommended pressures 36 seems really high to me I would be looking at 34 on Supercorsas.
  5. Spring rate and preload (in full gear you ideally want the bike sitting mid-stroke) Others may know the V2 numbers to set sag, if you dont know what that is then do some reading here. As a rough guide Ohlins forks have 1mm of preload per turn and somewhere between 8 and 14 is where you need to be for fast riding. If the bike is still too stiff/soft and you need to go outside this range then you need a different spring rate.
  6. How is the chain tension, make sure you have enough slack.
  7. Count all the clickers by turning all the way in and write it down, then go back to stock and see how it feels. Same with preload.
The whole idea is to get that baseline so that you make one change at a time go for a ride at the same pace on the same bit of road, rinse and repeat.
 
ewcha2 said:
I was told by the specialist that the settings can't be shared
Click to expand...

You paid for this setup?

Were you on the bike when they took measurements for a baseline preload setting?

Return the bike to stock, go for a test ride then set the preload for your weight and test again.

Fork preload is measure from full out. Compression and rebound from full in. Shock preload, the value the manual gives, takes the uncompressed spring length minus whatever value the book lists, to arrive at an installed compressed spring length. There is a ton of videos online about setting preload to a baseline based on your weight.

2024 V2 owners manual OEM fork adjustment:

1714479298620.png

2024 V2 owners manual OEM shock adjustment:

1714479259664.png
 

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andyb said:
Sounds to me like you didn’t explain what you wanted!
Click to expand...

Yes I did but apparently it doesn’t matter how I classify the scoring of comfort performance safety it would have been setup the same. I wasn’t sure why they would asked me to score it if it wouldn’t have mattered.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
You paid for this setup?

Were you on the bike when they took measurements for a baseline preload setting?

Return the bike to stock, go for a test ride then set the preload for your weight and test again.

Fork preload is measure from full out. Compression and rebound from full in. Shock preload, the value the manual gives, takes the uncompressed spring length minus whatever value the book lists, to arrive at an installed compressed spring length. There is a ton of videos online about setting preload to a baseline based on your weight.

2024 V2 owners manual OEM fork adjustment:

View attachment 54479

2024 V2 owners manual OEM shock adjustment:

View attachment 54478
Click to expand...

No I wasn’t asked to setup the bike with me on the bike other than giving my weight. I was initially hoping that they would set it up with me on it (as per YouTube videos). Yeh ofcause paid.
 
If you are capable, Make a note of where ride height preload comp and rebound have all been adjusted to ..
Make a note of what std settings are and Return the bike to std

Compare the two.

If you don’t know then seek out someone better or more to you taste
 
ewcha2 said:
Yeh ofcause paid.
Click to expand...
I can't imagine paying for a setup and not being told what the settings are. That's pretty bizarre.

It's not hard to figure out what the settings are on your own, as explained in this thread. That's what make them keeping it a secret from you even more bizarre.
 
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bp_SFV4 said:
I can't imagine paying for a setup and not being told what the settings are. That's pretty bizarre.

It's not hard to figure out what the settings are on your own, as explained in this thread. That's what make them keeping it a secret from you even more bizarre.
Click to expand...

I do have the settings but is more the issues, I’m concerned about.
 
ewcha2 said:
I do have the settings but is more the issues, I’m concerned about.
Click to expand...

Suspension setup needs a breadcrumb trail, when you are lost you have to follow the steps back to where you last knew you were ok.

Find out what the settings are now, go back to stock and compare. Then set the bike up for your weight and then start on the clickers.
 
ewcha2 said:
Hi all,

I have recently taken the bike to a suspension specialist for a setup.

I weight 78kg and 174cm tall.

Following the setup I took the bike to a few mountain runs and found that it was very unstable (front end) - bar wobble out of turns and during poor ground condition. Because the front felt a lot more stiffer, it was very difficult to turn in (having the fork to compress) before the turn.

I suspect the setup was aimed more for the track and less for the road but it just feels way too harsh and unsafe for the twisties.

I have tried to dial back the compression setting (softer) but still find the front being too stiff/unstable.

I was told by the specialist that the settings can't be shared, but as a starting point I felt that the preload could be too aggressive and wanted to hear your thoughts.

The front stock preload is 7.5 and adopted setting is doubled.

The recommended front tyre pressure is also 2 psi higher than stock, which may have also attributed to the gripping issue on road - I have gone back down to stock 36psi due to the stability issues now.

Again I stress that the setting could work on track for more agressive rides, but just wanted to hear from others what would be a good in between setup for preload, compression and rebound.

Cheers,
Click to expand...

Another person's set up may not work for you. By what you have described, I would reduce the compression until you feel a slight improvement. Then reduce preload. One click at a time with compression, and half a turn at a time with preload.
I avoid having any setting all the way in or out. If that's the case, it's time for a new spring.

Also read a book like, Kevin Cameron, "Sportsbike Performance Handbook". And there's also good old Dave Moss and someone offering free suspension advice on this forum. 😀
 
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Superquadro 1299 said:
Another person's set up may not work for you. By what you have described, I would reduce the compression until you feel a slight improvement. Then reduce preload. One click at a time with compression, and half a turn at a time with preload.
I avoid having any setting all the way in or out. If that's the case, it's time for a new spring.

Also read a book like, Kevin Cameron, "Sportsbike Performance Handbook". And there's also good old Dave Moss and someone offering free suspension advice on this forum. 😀
Click to expand...

Thanks, a small reduction of compression made it more compliant. Tried more and made the bike feel too wobbly as the rear is stiffer than the front. I reckon a small reduction on preload would make it better but before I try this, will try running lower front tyre pressure to see how it feels on the twisties.
 
From my experience, Ducati don't dial in static sag at the rear from factory. I've had to take out some rear preload on the rear on all of my Ducatis because the bikes would catapult me out of the seat after I hit a bump.
 
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Superquadro 1299 said:
From my experience, Ducati don't dial in static sag at the rear from factory. I've had to take out some rear preload on the rear on all of my Ducatis because the bikes would catapult me out of the seat after I hit a bump.
Click to expand...

Dial in for who at the factory…. The 20 stones racer here or the 7 stone wet through canyon hero?

Of course they don’t as we are all different!
 
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Superquadro 1299 said:
From my experience, Ducati don't dial in static sag at the rear from factory. I've had to take out some rear preload on the rear on all of my Ducatis because the bikes would catapult me out of the seat after I hit a bump.
Click to expand...

Yes preload dropped by
 
Superquadro 1299 said:
From my experience, Ducati don't dial in static sag at the rear from factory. I've had to take out some rear preload on the rear on all of my Ducatis because the bikes would catapult me out of the seat after I hit a bump.
Click to expand...

Thats why they call them pain-i-gales, my twin was virtually a hardtail new. The need 10-15 free sag and there's a positive difference with Ohlins over Sachs
 
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