V4 owners - 15w50 oil reports with testing - Motul 300v / Redline Power Sports / Motul 7100 - Part 1

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This should be a decent oil, but not quite as good as some others. I don’t like it when oil companies give uninformed consumers useless information under the guise of appearing to be important. It does have some ester and they say the same things every other oil says. The Flash Point is the only useful clue, and it’s not good. The Flash Point is only normal for most average oils. Like I’ve said before, the important stuff is VI, NOACK, ZDDP / zinc, and HTHS. If the oil has exceptional numbers in those categories, they’ll shout it from the rooftops. Since they say very little and the Flash Point is mediocre, you can buy better oil for the same price.
Since the engine is new, your main concern should be putting real Break-in oil in the engine and doing the proper procedure. This has been discussed in other threads. Your engine has a cartridge oil filter. I would immediately epoxy the biggest super magnet I could onto the cover. That will pull out the iron particles smaller than 30 microns that the filter can’t stop. Order extra oil filters and change the oil and filter at 100 miles, 300 miles, and 600 miles. Don’t forget to clean the iron dust off the inside of the oil filter cover. It will look similar to the metal on the drain plug magnet. If you really want to help your engine, replace the Ducati magnetic drain plug with a higher quality more powerful magnet. If you’re really anal, you can remove the valve covers and put super magnets near the lobes of the camshafts. They make the magnets in the shape of a washer. Find a spot that doesn’t interfere with any sensor or has a clearance problem. You’ll probably need a 5mm longer bolt for a 5mm magnetic washer. You should only do this if you know what you’re doing. The biggest problem today seems to be with high camshaft wear. A magnet near the cam lobes will help keep the oil at the lobes as pure as possible. Now you’re ready to go. If you don’t know how, learn how to change your own oil and filter. The Ducati oil filter is as good as you’ll get. Never use one of those stainless steel reusable oil filters you see advertised.
I've seen two valvetrains thus far and I'm not seeing any wear really. They have hardened the rocker faces to a level that the cams must be sacrificial to the rockers in the V4's. I'd like to use alnico magnets for head bolt washers on these but since they're sintered I don't think they're up to the task. They're pumping a lot of oil into the heads and actively scavenging but I bet there's at a minimum of half a liter in each head all the time based on the change in the oil level as the heads drain down after you shut them off. I actually have hopes for the valvetrain life on these. That being said I'd be keeping the clearances within the factory assembly specs and ignoring their operating specs. My real concern on these is rod bearing related issues as the motors loosen up with age. They've revved the oil pump four times as near as i can tell.
 
I've seen the gold flake thing show up from several bikes. I don't think there is any copper in the clutch plates (not that I can see on the clutch that came with the motor I bought 14K miles). They do have some sort of gold/copper coating on the friction plates which you can see between the friction pads. Some of that may shed for a while. I'm not seeing it in my bike BTW. These will shed the edges of the various gears in the engine particularly the gearbox for probably 15K miles. I see no source of copper inside the engines except for backings of the rod and main bearings. So, i agree watch that copper number.
I be wrong. I forgot about the rod small end bushes, you'll see some copper from these as they burnish in. And maybe lead depending on the alloy. Shouldn't be much though.
 
I be wrong. I forgot about the rod small end bushes, you'll see some copper from these as they burnish in. And maybe lead depending on the alloy. Shouldn't be much though.
perhaps the 1st owner of this bike never pushed hard...only 4k miles when i purchased and the dealership had records of all the times it was in the shop...first service around 700mi, new tires at 3000mi, two oil changes by dealership....

Now that ive got it and actually pushing...perhaps why i'm seeing some ware? in any event, will sample new oil again after this weekends 300mi loop!

Jag
 
No 300v is specifically race oil. It does an amazing job at protecting the engine but for fewer heat cycles. It sheers its viscosity very fast. 300v is for one or two track days at best. Me personally I’d run it at the track and dump it as I got home .

Stick with street oil that can withstand being sheered down. 7100 is good , however not the best .

Redline , directly from their website won’t ship internationally? Have you tried that option
yes, and I was afraid you would say that because even though I won't do a lot of kilometers per year (about 2000km) there will be a lot of heating cycles. As for redline, they will not deliver it directly from the official website but I found a couple of stores in Europe that have it in stock, but the price is expected to be a bit more expensive, $31, and again, I don't know how long it stays on the shelf in the store and is it really important or am I exaggerating
Another good thing is that it's the middle of winter here and I won't be driving for at least 2 months, so I have time to wait for your new results :)
 
There are dozens of websites who specialize in super magnets of every size shape and strength. Most have useful technical information about the various types of magnets. I’ve bought some that are down right dangerous. Put your finger between them while not paying attention, and you’ll lose a chunk of skin. Once is normally adequate to maintain the proper respect.
Votex is a major supplier of high quality Neodymium drain plugs. Know your size before you order. Belmetrics.com offers the same size drain plugs, but in different configurations. Let’s say the stock drain plug is an Allen type. But a drain plug with a hex head would work better. Plus you can put a hole for safety wire through a hex head . You can also get stainless steel, aluminum, or titanium. You can find all of these variations. I’ve gotten drain plugs with the magnet counter sunk and then I stack a super strong single magnet on top of it. You don’t need to worry about it getting loose. Those 2 magnets have a death grip on each other and any tiny metallic dust to small for the filter. I also use plumber’s tape on the threads to prevent leaks. I also run a bigger NCR oil cooler on some of my bikes. They also have a small drain plug that I switch to a magnet style. Plus I always drill my drain plugs for safety wire. I know some of the readers are new to the sport. One of my small contributors is to pass on little bits of wisdom, so they don’t have to learn things the hard way. I want new riders to stick with the sport and not give up the first time they get bit. Sometimes older riders forget how long it’s taken to learn the little tricks. Like safety wire. I really believe it’s important that riders know how to work on most of their bike repairs. As we all know, motorcycles do not suffer fools for very long. I live in a major city, and there’s a fatal motorcycle accident practically every day. The Paper never gives details about the riders experience or things about the bike that may have contributed to the accident.
One thing motorcyclists need to remember when they’re working on their bike. “What happens if this thing I’m tightening comes loose and falls off?” If you want to be certain it doesn’t fall off, it needs to be safety wired. If the nut, bolt, or drain plug is not pre drilled for safety wire, you need to know how to do it. If you give your bike to a work shop or Dealer for your repairs, it’s highly unlikely they will make the effort to safety wire something. “If the factory didn’t do it, it can’t be important.” I’ll let you think about that for a bit.
Find a safety wire website and learn how to do it. If you think it’s a hassle, remind yourself about what happens if whatever you’re doing falls off. Canister and cartridge oil filters also need safety wired. K&N cartridge oil filters are pre drilled for safety wire. If your engine has a cartridge filter, the screws securing the cap need to be drilled to properly safety wire. Learn how to do it. When anything oil related works loose, the problem isn’t the engine loosing oil. The problem is oil getting on your rear tire. Forget the engine, you and your family will be royally screwed.
 
So who makes drain plugs with super strong magnets?
It may be useful to attach a neodymium magnet to the bottom edge of the valve covers on the outside. Neo magnets are strong enough for this to be effective. This location should be cool enough to use neodymium without getting close to the curie point which is like 300 F. Neo sintered magnets are coated to stop corrosion and can break down into sort of a powdered paste if the coating breaks down which is usually nickel or something similar so after attachment on the outside might be useful to paint them on the valve cover after attachment. And as Vyrus says attaching a big Neo one to the outside bottom of the V4 filter housing would be useful. I shove an Alnico one down the inside of the oil filters. Neo's pull is about 6 times as strong as Alnico, but Alnico is much less temperature sensitive.
 
There are dozens of websites who specialize in super magnets of every size shape and strength. Most have useful technical information about the various types of magnets. I’ve bought some that are down right dangerous. Put your finger between them while not paying attention, and you’ll lose a chunk of skin. Once is normally adequate to maintain the proper respect.
Votex is a major supplier of high quality Neodymium drain plugs. Know your size before you order. Belmetrics.com offers the same size drain plugs, but in different configurations. Let’s say the stock drain plug is an Allen type. But a drain plug with a hex head would work better. Plus you can put a hole for safety wire through a hex head . You can also get stainless steel, aluminum, or titanium. You can find all of these variations. I’ve gotten drain plugs with the magnet counter sunk and then I stack a super strong single magnet on top of it. You don’t need to worry about it getting loose. Those 2 magnets have a death grip on each other and any tiny metallic dust to small for the filter. I also use plumber’s tape on the threads to prevent leaks. I also run a bigger NCR oil cooler on some of my bikes. They also have a small drain plug that I switch to a magnet style. Plus I always drill my drain plugs for safety wire. I know some of the readers are new to the sport. One of my small contributors is to pass on little bits of wisdom, so they don’t have to learn things the hard way. I want new riders to stick with the sport and not give up the first time they get bit. Sometimes older riders forget how long it’s taken to learn the little tricks. Like safety wire. I really believe it’s important that riders know how to work on most of their bike repairs. As we all know, motorcycles do not suffer fools for very long. I live in a major city, and there’s a fatal motorcycle accident practically every day. The Paper never gives details about the riders experience or things about the bike that may have contributed to the accident.
One thing motorcyclists need to remember when they’re working on their bike. “What happens if this thing I’m tightening comes loose and falls off?” If you want to be certain it doesn’t fall off, it needs to be safety wired. If the nut, bolt, or drain plug is not pre drilled for safety wire, you need to know how to do it. If you give your bike to a work shop or Dealer for your repairs, it’s highly unlikely they will make the effort to safety wire something. “If the factory didn’t do it, it can’t be important.” I’ll let you think about that for a bit.
Find a safety wire website and learn how to do it. If you think it’s a hassle, remind yourself about what happens if whatever you’re doing falls off. Canister and cartridge oil filters also need safety wired. K&N cartridge oil filters are pre drilled for safety wire. If your engine has a cartridge filter, the screws securing the cap need to be drilled to properly safety wire. Learn how to do it. When anything oil related works loose, the problem isn’t the engine loosing oil. The problem is oil getting on your rear tire. Forget the engine, you and your family will be royally screwed.
I raced for a number of years where you safety wire everything. The tech guys force one to get good at it. But I don't safety wire anything on my street bikes and this has never been an issue. Big fan of loctite that being said. My view on the magnets is the same more and bigger can't hurt.
 

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