V4 owners - 15w50 oil reports with testing - Motul 300v / Redline Power Sports / Motul 7100 - Part 1

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SirJAG said:
Hey my drain plug looks like that too… kinda nasty black ....…
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The threads being black is the sealant they use from the factory but the magnetic portion looks fantastic compared to the first few changes. Very little on there which is great to see.
 
Also very important step here , I wish I didn’t wipe away this pan every hour to show you guys . But this is hour # 3 of draining the oil and leaving it to just sit . A lot more oil is being drained as it sits with open plug and oil filter.

In what I’ve noticed it’s best to get the engine hot , zip the plug and let it sit a minimum of 4 hours to get all the oil from the head to drain out. If I didn’t wipe this pan clean every hour like I said , it would be a lot more shown here but as shown It’s still dripping out on the 3rd hour.
IMG_6303.jpeg
 
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SirJAG said:
The 300v took much longer than my last dump of redline. I was done at two hours. And turning the wheel in 6th stopped spilling more after about 4 turns..
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Didn’t know about the gear 6th gear wheel rotation, just did it and more is still coming out . Thanks
 
NYCV4S said:
Didn’t know about the gear 6th gear wheel rotation, just did it and more is still coming out . Thanks
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Along these lines...now that I'm proper freaked out over the 3000 mile 300v in my bike and will be changing it before riding season, how best to get it all out?

It's been sitting on stands all winter...should I just pop the plug unstarted because it's been dripping all winter, and then turn her over with the wheel in 6th to get the stragglers, let sit draining overnight and refill? Or start it to get the oil warm, then drain and let sit overnight draining and then rotate wheel to get as much out as can and refill?

Even after the above process, should I run an additional change of the redline through it after letting it get up top full temp just for good measure? How much realistically stays in the bike regardless of how long it drains and what you do?

-John
'20 PV4 Base
 
A016738 said:
Along these lines...now that I'm proper freaked out over the 3000 mile 300v in my bike and will be changing it before riding season, how best to get it all out?

It's been sitting on stands all winter...should I just pop the plug unstarted because it's been dripping all winter, and then turn her over with the wheel in 6th to get the stragglers, let sit draining overnight and refill? Or start it to get the oil warm, then drain and let sit overnight draining and then rotate wheel to get as much out as can and refill?

Even after the above process, should I run an additional change of the redline through it after letting it get up top full temp just for good measure? How much realistically stays in the bike regardless of how long it drains and what you do?

-John
'20 PV4 Base
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Do not start that bike. This is the best opportunity. You will have to get everything out.

The method you described above, will work great.

I ran Virgin redline for about 500 miles and then I dumped it completely

The next time I dumped 500 miles later, it still had a little bit of a greenish tent so I wouldn’t worry too much. It will take you a couple changes to get it all out.

All my miles are very hard and near red line I basically have less than a 20 minute drive to where I’m ripping it up.

I always ran 300 V fresh for track weekends though.

What I’m getting it is your 3000 miles if they weren’t very hard, may not be the Engine killer that it was for me

OK, I think I touched on everything you asked. Good luck, buddy!

Jag
 
A016738 said:
Along these lines...now that I'm proper freaked out over the 3000 mile 300v in my bike and will be changing it before riding season, how best to get it all out?

It's been sitting on stands all winter...should I just pop the plug unstarted because it's been dripping all winter, and then turn her over with the wheel in 6th to get the stragglers, let sit draining overnight and refill? Or start it to get the oil warm, then drain and let sit overnight draining and then rotate wheel to get as much out as can and refill?

Even after the above process, should I run an additional change of the redline through it after letting it get up top full temp just for good measure? How much realistically stays in the bike regardless of how long it drains and what you do?

-John
'20 PV4 Base
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I would do exactly as you mentioned , I would not start the bike and drop the oil on a cold motor. Refill with ether Redline 15/50 powersports or Maxima extra 4T 15/50. Run that for 500 miles then drop and refill again , safe to run these oils every 2k from there on. This motor sheers oil down very fast. Especially 50W oil as it sheers faster.

Typically id say about 1/4-1/2 quart stays in the system from the oil cooler and passages of the motor. Put it this way after you drop this 300v and swap to redline , the next change you will see green in your oil from the remaining 300v.

if you really want to get down to being sure about whats going on in your engine , do an oil analysis with Speediagnostix . Id actually be very curious to see a 3000 mile sample of 300v and what it looks like viscosity wise.

https://www.speediagnostix.com/shop/p/standard-drain-sample-kit
 
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NYCV4S said:
I would do exactly as you mentioned , I would not start the bike and drop the oil on a cold motor. Refill with ether Redline 15/50 powersports or Maxima extra 4T 15/50. Run that for 500 miles then drop and refill again , safe to run these oils every 2k from there on. This motor sheers oil down very fast. Especially 50W oil as it sheers faster.

Typically id say about 1/4-1/2 quart stays in the system from the oil cooler and passages of the motor. Put it this way after you drop this 300v and swap to redline , the next change you will see green in your oil from the remaining 300v.

if you really want to get down to being sure about whats going on in your engine , do an oil analysis with Speediagnostix . Id actually be very curious to see a 3000 mile sample of 300v and what it looks like viscosity wise.

https://www.speediagnostix.com/shop/p/standard-drain-sample-kit
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I find this comment interesting. Do you think these shear oil faster than say the twins due to crank rotational shear at high rpm. The shear forces would clearly be higher. Never really thought about this. Always thought most of the shear was due to the oil being shared with the gearbox. This is exactly why I love this thread.
 
baggerman said:
I find this comment interesting. Do you think these shear oil faster than say the twins due to crank rotational shear at high rpm. The shear forces would clearly be higher. Never really thought about this. Always thought most of the shear was due to the oil being shared with the gearbox. This is exactly why I love this thread.
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I had the same question!! Could this thread be the most useful thread ever on this form definitely in the top five. Stevens with all the mods he did is probably number one.
 
baggerman said:
I find this comment interesting. Do you think these shear oil faster than say the twins due to crank rotational shear at high rpm. The shear forces would clearly be higher. Never really thought about this. Always thought most of the shear was due to the oil being shared with the gearbox. This is exactly why I love this thread.
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As for the oil , all 50W & 60W have alot more added polymers than all other weights like 30-40 ect.. They need these polymers to get to the correct viscosity to be labeled at that listed 50 or 60 weight. Those polymers are synthetic and will naturally break down faster on their own under use. Completely normal , just the nature of the higher weight oils.

As for the motorcycles with shared engine transmission sumps , you are 100% correct , they will always sheer up oil faster than lets say a car would .

You're also correct again , The V4 having such a high RPM , higher compression and more forces generated inside the motor is exactly why this motor abuses oil fast.

The V4R even more so with the added 1500~ rpm.

Now you add a non sheer stable race oil like 300v to the mix , sheers to a 40W after 500mi & running that past 500-1000 miles .....its a time bomb.
 
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cmh210 said:
So I have a 2015 Multistrada with a Testastretta. And you are saying that it would not be as hard on oil as the V4s?
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That engine has a redline of 9250 rpm right ? vs 15,000-16,500 rpm of the Desmosedici Stradale . V4 will for sure beat on oil a lot more than the Testastretta . The Moving engine internals are reciprocated a lot more over the same duration.

Regardless motorcycles sharing the transmission and most of the time the clutch too if it’s wet sump, they beat on oil as it is.
 
NYCV4S said:
As for the oil , all 50W & 60W have alot more added polymers than all other weights like 30-40 ect.. They need these polymers to get to the correct viscosity to be labeled at that listed 50 or 60 weight. Those polymers are synthetic and will naturally break down faster on their own under use. Completely normal , just the nature of the higher weight oils.

As for the motorcycles with shared engine transmission sumps , you are 100% correct , they will always sheer up oil faster than lets say a car would .

You're also correct again , The V4 having such a high RPM , higher compression and more forces generated inside the motor is exactly why this motor abuses oil fast.

The V4R even more so with the added 1500~ rpm.

Now you add a non sheer stable race oil like 300v to the mix , sheers to a 40W after 500mi & running that past 500-1000 miles .....its a time bomb.
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OK but the angular velocity difference of the crankpin vs the rod bore goes down with decreasing rod journal diameter. So smaller journal higher rpm at same angular velocity. I'd calculate the difference but i'm too lazy. Similar effect as with stroke vs piston speed. But it's probably still higher.
 
baggerman said:
OK but the angular velocity difference of the crankpin vs the rod bore goes down with decreasing rod journal diameter. So smaller journal higher rpm at same angular velocity. I'd calculate the difference but i'm too lazy. Similar effect as with stroke vs piston speed. But it's probably still higher.
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Interesting. I see where you’re going with this , I’d love to see your calculations on let’s say the 1299cc Pani vs the 1103cc Pani. I’m pretty confident the higher rotational speed of the v4 will have more of an effect on sheering pressure over the longer stroke & bores of the 1299 . especially being there are 2x more pistons / rods / bearings ect , but data is always proof.

Deff curious on this if you could calculate it as i wouldnt know the formula to do so. This could be useful to apply in regards to other engines too.
 
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All the purpose to warm up the oil is to mix any metal debris stick on the wall , head , etc, it will go out easier without warm up the bike thicker oil only goes out whatever is in the oil pan. Also what "abuse" the oil as someone here mentioned is not the rpm is the temperature. I used 300v and I change it before 3k or any time I see.the oil on sale. (I have a dry clutch) my oil is always clean. If you don't have a dry clutch MY opinion is used 7100 you clutch will be benefits from it.. again is my humble opinion but is your bike and money . HAPPY FRIDAY be safe out there 🙏🙏🙏
 
Solera18 said:
All the purpose to warm up the oil is to mix any metal debris stick on the wall , head , etc, it will go out easier without warm up the bike thicker oil only goes out whatever is in the oil pan. Also what "abuse" the oil as someone here mentioned is not the rpm is the temperature. I used 300v and I change it before 3k or any time I see.the oil on sale. (I have a dry clutch) my oil is always clean. If you don't have a dry clutch MY opinion is used 7100 you clutch will be benefits from it.. again is my humble opinion but is your bike and money . HAPPY FRIDAY be safe out there 🙏🙏🙏
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correct , warm oil if the goal is getting debris out but if you read what he wrote it was in regards to getting as most of the brand of oil out since he wants to swap brands and eliminate left over oil in the case, he should not start that bike as the oil stays in the head for a long time on the v4 motor. It was stored on stands , up right and the oil collected for months in the pan. Cold drain , That's how you get the most oil out.

In regards to 7100 , you clearly didn't go through the entirety of this thread did you ? Just skipped to the end without seeing the data. Not to be an @$$hole here (im sure im going to sound like one) but to come to this thread as your 3rd post on this forum without reading the data & skip to the last page and post without reading the values of the tests here is just ignorance. Ill recap some of it for you.

Id advise to please read this whole thread starting page 1-13, there is very useful information i've provided here , along with others in showing their oil lab testings as well. Especially from what @VYRUS had presented to us as well.

I've tested the 7100 both in bearing stress testing & virgin analysis. 7100 is very basic just like the OEM shell, still better than the shell stuff however additive properties in regards to anti wear are not on par whatsoever with the higher end oils. It also was getting VERY hot VERY fast, reaching one of the hottest temp oils tested on the bearing stress tester.

another gentlemen mentioned in a reply here that 7100 did not do him well in regards to shifting , swapped over to maxima & fixed the issue along with the bike running cooler as well & another said report was ugly. see below.

Greasey monkey said:
I tried the 7100 and the shift quality dropped then I went to maxima extra 15-50 all better now also the coolant temp stays in the 2 bar zone more than before, no lab test to verify but.noticeably better. V4 street fighter
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TakoDivah said:
My oil sample from 700-3000 miles using 7100 were pretty ugly. Also going to give RL a try
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almost 99% of the time higher RPM = Higher oil Temperature. HIgher temp with added pressures = oil sheering. HTHS for example is the oils measurement for this. I have 100+ hours in oil testing done , i'd like to see your results to compare to mine as well doesnt matter if its even 1 used oil sample to provide will be very useful here.

Dry clutch oils will always be cleaner . However simply saying the oils clean and testing the oil for cleanliness are two different things.

300v sheers down to a 15- 100c cst in 500 miles , which is a 40w oil. Being thinner will also not provide equal protection a sheer stable 50w would , causing premature wear.

if you used 300v for 3k miles , and collected data , please show an oil report .

& happy Friday as well , hope im not coming off arrogant here just trying to educate you on what i've collected as hard data.
 
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NYCV4S said:
correct , warm oil if the goal is getting debris out but if you read what he wrote it was in regards to getting as most of the brand of oil out since he wants to swap brands and eliminate left over oil in the case, he should not start that bike as the oil stays in the head for a long time on the v4 motor. It was stored on stands , up right and the oil collected for months in the pan. Cold drain , That's how you get the most oil out.

In regards to 7100 , you clearly didn't go through the entirety of this thread did you ? Just skipped to the end without seeing the data. Not to be an @$$hole here (im sure im going to sound like one) but to come to this thread as your 3rd post on this forum without reading the data & skip to the last page and post without reading the values of the tests here is just ignorance. Ill recap some of it for you.

Id advise to please read this whole thread starting page 1-13, there is very useful information i've provided here , along with others in showing their oil lab testings as well. Especially from what @VYRUS had presented to us as well.

I've tested the 7100 both in bearing stress testing & virgin analysis. 7100 is very basic just like the OEM shell, still better than the shell stuff however additive properties in regards to anti wear are not on par whatsoever with the higher end oils. It also was getting VERY hot VERY fast, reaching one of the hottest temp oils tested on the bearing stress tester.

another gentlemen mentioned in a reply here that 7100 did not do him well in regards to shifting , swapped over to maxima & fixed the issue along with the bike running cooler as well & another said report was ugly. see below.




almost 99% of the time higher RPM = Higher oil Temperature. HIgher temp with added pressures = oil sheering. HTHS for example is the oils measurement for this. I have 100+ hours in oil testing done , i'd like to see your results to compare to mine as well doesnt matter if its even 1 used oil sample to provide will be very useful here.

Dry clutch oils will always be cleaner . However simply saying the oils clean and testing the oil for cleanliness are two different things.

300v sheers down to a 15- 100c cst in 500 miles , which is a 40w oil. Being thinner will also not provide equal protection a sheer stable 50w would , causing premature wear.

if you used 300v for 3k miles , and collected data , please show an oil report .

& happy Friday as well , hope im not coming off arrogant here just trying to educate you on what i've collected as hard data.
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I apologized if was never my intention to offend anyone , I just thought I can give my opinion about the oil, my 1st, 2nd or 3rd post and I already hurts someone's feeling ... not you did not sound like an a$$ not at all , it was my fault for give an opinion based on my personal experience... I promised you it will not happen again ... In all this groups everyone has a different opinions I just thought by giving mine will help... I have been an Aircraft Mechanic for 28 years maybe I have more experiencein another subject ... I agreed with you 💯
Best Regards.
 
Solera18 said:
I apologized if was never my intention to offend anyone , I just thought I can give my opinion about the oil, my 1st, 2nd or 3rd post and I already hurts someone's feeling ... not you did not sound like an a$$ not at all , it was my fault for give an opinion based on my personal experience... I promised you it will not happen again ... In all this groups everyone has a different opinions I just thought by giving mine will help... I have been an Aircraft Mechanic for 28 years maybe I have more experiencein another subject ... I agreed with you 💯
Best Regards.
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Now your making feel like an @$$hole lol. Your opinion or anyone’s is always appreciated. I was simply just telling you there’s plenty of data here compared to what you stated without reading it first that’s all. Cheers buddy. Ride safe!
 

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