V4/V4S ABS Delete Options?

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I am setting up a V4 for pure racing. Not track days - racing only.
One of my goals is to remove the ABS system, and it doesn't seem possible yet.

I was speaking with a nationally-recognized racer here in the USA who is also setting up a V4 for racing, and we were comparing notes because I am planning my setup and I wanted his input. He said "the biggest challenge we are facing now is how to get rid of the ABS". Apparently this is because removing it in any way disables the TC system, which is obviously bad. He is checking around and so am I.

I am starting this thread here in case any of you is aware of a current or future solution to remove the entire ABS system for racing. And no, the V4R is not a solution.

Thanks in advance.
 
This has been covered fairly comprehensively in numerous posts, by numerous authors, with multiple solutions.
 
Thanks, That was so helpful. I did a search and only saw some info on the twins.
 
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Who’s the nationally recognized racer? Just curious....

I’d check with Boulder Motorsports...Brian might know
 
Not trying to be a ....... but its hard because well, Im a ........The data was actually just covered again in the "Your Hydraulic System WTF" post just a couple of days ago. The V4 and solutions for he V4 were in the thread but let's cover it again shall we. First I assume you have the V4 Owners manual with the schematic in the back and a copy of the V4 parts schematic. If you do not, then download them. While you are at it, download the corresponding 2 manual's for the twin. This will give you a good overall understanding of the similarities and cross pollination of components and systems between the two bikes which will help to alleviate the situation where one bike is used in reference. This can help to alleviate future redundant posts for those who have the V4 as the bikes share many component similarities. Both bikes use the Bosch ABS unit, Both bikes incorporate a BBS unit to control electronic ride functions, Both bikes employ the same wheel speed sensors, Both bikes employ similar logic control between ECU, BBS and peripheral sensors (CAN). Looking over the schematics in detail, systems engineering and circuit layout are similar. Are there differences in the two electronic/electrical control systems, yep however the ABS system is from a component and functional perspective relative to this conversation, very similar. Solutions. You can wait for the BSD ABS delete kit (no delivery date as of this writing) or you can use an existing matched numbered ABS pump and make your own. If you opt for the second option, I highly recommend you obtain a spare pump in case the one you are about to Frankenstein, doesn't survive the operation. If you want the operational procedure for the mod, PM me.
 
Most of the guys (racers, etc) thus far that have modded the system and deleted the ABS have just left the pump in place plugged into the multi connector and built a new system around it. If you are OK with the pump being there then obviously, that is the cheapest and easiest way to go. No use spending the 250 for the BSD box (if it becomes available) or making your own unless you absolutely want or need to get rid of the pump.
 
Most of the guys (racers, etc) thus far that have modded the system and deleted the ABS have just left the pump in place plugged into the multi connector and built a new system around it. If you are OK with the pump being there then obviously, that is the cheapest and easiest way to go. No use spending the 250 for the BSD box (if it becomes available) or making your own unless you absolutely want or need to get rid of the pump.

I plan on doing the mod ... will leave the pump In place until BSD comes up with the connector ...
Do I have to put plugs on the hoses inputs/outputs ?
What should I buy If It's the case ? ( thread size, length ... )
 
A little history. I first bought a few of the correct pumps off ebay. The correct pump for my application was 542.4.057.1B. The case containing the PC boards needs to be physically cut open with a Dremel. Once you get the front off you literally need to surgically separate the top and bottom boards which involves de-soldering contacts. Bosh cleverly bolts the bottom board to the valve body then solders the top PC card on top of the bottom card. No way to separate the bords from the valve body and modulation motor without separating the boards. If you manage to separate the boards correctly you will eventually end up with two PC boards which do need to be put back together. You can then take the boards and mount them into some sort of box. This leaves you with a small lightweight box that you plug back into the harness. If done correctly you will not get the error on the dash. However, you will notice that your mode indicator flashes (wet, sport race). This indicates an incomplete mode circuit. The reason is still not verified but it is most likely because there are 4 coils that get left behind with the valve body assembly. Potentially, the resistance that those coils create in the circuitry is missing. Don't know. Mod seems to work but its wonky. Both Mick1976 and I have successfully run this solution without incident.
 
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I have recently completed "bench" testing a different solution that completely eliminates all components of the BBS system, generates no errors and fixes the mode situation. You will need some skills to do this. If you go this route and use the Woolich setup you can eliminate a lot of the harness wiring. You will end up with something not much more than the Super Stock harness (for you guys building track bikes). PM me if you want the details of the mod and again just to clarify, this will involve invasive tinkering with your harness, BBS and WSS.
 
I have recently completed "bench" testing a different solution that completely eliminates all components of the BBS system, generates no errors and fixes the mode situation. You will need some skills to do this. If you go this route and use the Woolich setup you can eliminate a lot of the harness wiring. You will end up with something not much more than the Super Stock harness (for you guys building track bikes). PM me if you want the details of the mod and again just to clarify, this will involve invasive tinkering with your harness, BBS and WSS.

Thanks for the infos Endodoc !
Which Woolich setup ? Are they making something for the V4 that I don't know ?
 
No such luck. 1199/1299 only. From my last email, It does not sound like they have plans to do the V4. Not enough interest.
 
Is there any kit available now my bike keep having so much errors after I remove the abs.dtc error abs error suddenly will have dqs error
 
Is there any kit available now my bike keep having so much errors after I remove the abs.dtc error abs error suddenly will have dqs error

Deleting ABS will not solve your problems. You most likely have a bad sensor somewhere, either wheel, gear, or the quickshifter...etc. Read the codes and start troubleshooting from there.
 
As far as I know, the only way to remove the ABS pump is to get the Magnetti Marelli ECU and loom. Approx £10k?
If you remove the ABS, you'll get all the errors in the world. Reinstall it and fit blanking plugs to the hydraulic input/outputs.
 
It may have been doable '19 and '20, but on my 21 with the new software and im sure the 22, it basically disabled my TC and i struggled with the bike for 6 months until I finally just reconnected it. ....... nightmare, I do have amazing throttle control now :rolleyes:
 
It may have been doable '19 and '20, but on my 21 with the new software and im sure the 22, it basically disabled my TC and i struggled with the bike for 6 months until I finally just reconnected it. ....... nightmare, I do have amazing throttle control now :rolleyes:

Actually, I haven't tried it on the 22, but the 22's electronics are significantly different.

On the 22 bikes, when the gear position sensor fails, nothing else fails (other than launch). Whereas, on pre 22, everything fails. So I don't know what would happen, if the abs pump was disconnected.
 
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