V4s mods, where to start?

NWA1199s said:

I was just looking at chain and sprocket sets. Unfortunately I am of the mindset that if I have it torn down, and need something like a new chain, I go ahead and get a whole new set up I.e., chain, sprocket, carrier.

The clutch felt squishy so I bought an Oberon slave, and since I did that I went ahead and got a new clutch line.

The quick shifter feels like it could be acting weird but there is a lot of wiggle in the oem rearset so I ordered new rear sets and a stabilizer mount for the quick shifter. I have a very large foot and I think the oem rears and the slop, plus the clutch being real squishy, etc., is what gave me the notion that it was acting weird.

My OCD is killing me. I’ve already bought way too much stuff for this bike-but I love that part!

is there a chain/sprocket/hub assembly that you’d recommend @SirJAG? I’m curious what others might recommend as well. I’m not trying to change hearing at this point. The chain on here has some rust spots and it looks kind of ...... because the bike sat in a carport for quite a while. I’d hate to have a bad link somewhere and it knock a hole in the back of my motor case if it broke loose.

I’m not really worried about street bling with a chain set up. What’s the best option for some track days and not much else?

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go here
https://sprocketcenter.com/c-1391447-street-ducati-1199-panigale-all-models-2012-2015.html

you need Superlite sprockets, ZVM-X2 chain in the color you want, this is the best chain on market right now, i was getting 20K plus miles!

You can use the OEM flange cover, but I like the aftermarket ones myself, you will need a carrier though that holds the new sprocket. You can reuse the OEM cush drives, they last a good 10k miles, or get new poly ones with titanium bolts/nuts!

If you got that racetorx shifter support, great job! that is a quality product that paired with good rearsets (the stock are pure shittei, and youll have a bolt action rifle feeling when shifting!

The oberon is clutch too. Next up would be the oem lever and perch...IF you think you need that after you drive the bike some after all the recent changes.

SirJAG said:

go here
https://sprocketcenter.com/c-1391447-street-ducati-1199-panigale-all-models-2012-2015.html

you need Superlite sprockets, ZVM-X2 chain in the color you want, this is the best chain on market right now, i was getting 20K plus miles!

You can use the OEM flange cover, but I like the aftermarket ones myself, you will need a carrier though that holds the new sprocket. You can reuse the OEM cush drives, they last a good 10k miles, or get new poly ones with titanium bolts/nuts!

If you got that racetorx shifter support, great job! that is a quality product that paired with good rearsets (the stock are pure shittei, and youll have a bolt action rifle feeling when shifting!

The oberon is clutch too. Next up would be the oem lever and perch...IF you think you need that after you drive the bike some after all the recent changes.

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We are on the same page @SirJAG. I have the AEM carrier set up on my 1199s. It’s sprocket specific and I have the black and gold chain. I love AEM products. Pricey but the titanium integrated reservoirs are nice on my brembo corsa masters. I went head to toe with AEM and IMA. Hence why I probably won’t sell it because I’ll never get back the 15k in parts that are on it. She’s a garage Queen. That’s the first bike that I put the quickshifter support on and it from racetorx and it is exactly as you said. I figured the v4s could use it as well. I picked up some rearsets on eBay and got a hell of a deal. I have the cnc Pramac gp units on my other bike which are gorgeous. The ones I have coming are ART billet rearsets new/open box that I picked up for 350.00. That’s half price and they are good looking. I can live with them for that price. I also snagged his billet engine side covers as well for another 100.00. I’d say that’s a win. I removed the evap and deleted the servo, changed the oil to see if water appears because I want to know where it came from and I’ll just change it again when I get the new water pump.

Someone from the forum reached out about selling some carbon parts and brembo billet calipers. He wants 1k for the calipers and I might have a hard time saying no to them. New in box and they shine like diamonds.

What master cylinders would you go with? I have the Corsa Corta masters on my 1199s and they are really nice. I’ve seen billet masters but I don’t think I need anything like that. Damn things are pricey and honestly that kind of stuff is generally out of my league. If my alimony payment wasn’t almost 6k a month I’d possibly spring for them.

I never upgraded the clutch perch myself on the '99's or my V4s...

HARD PASS on that calipers man...spend that money in tires, these things brake plenty out of the box (well after you get decent pads that is).

oh and i linked the '99 box stuff above...sorry i meant to send the V4 page. On the V4, the FLANGE is different than on the '99 bikes!


6K a month, holy moly! No alimony in TEXAS...

JAG

Yup 6k for four years. They based it off of my company revenue since it is a sole proprietorship. I was bled dry for over a year and had to end it before I was in complete ruin. So I ended up submitting. I’d have a sweet pile to spend if that wasn’t the current situation. I’d have just bought a 23 or 24 SP2 if I could find one. In two years it will be over and I can buy another to add to the collection.

I wasn’t really planning on the calipers. I was curious what you’d have to say about it.

I like the feel of the corsa perches and I have the stylema factory red brembos on the ‘99 and it will stop on a dime. I believe I have the sintered pads in it. Can’t remember. I’ve put so many damn parts on that thing. I’m really anxious to get both of these bikes out on the track soon. I want to feel the differences in the two.

When I remove the mirrors on this bike, will it throw an error on the dash since I’ll be removing the wiring for the blinkers?

I bought a tail light delete this morning after I removed the tail tidy kit that was installed previously-which for some reason was also throwing an error message but I heard that was a well known issue with the tail tidy on this model and it was later corrected by NRC.

I haven’t seen or heard of a delete plug for the blinkers…

NWA1199s said:

Yup 6k for four years. They based it off of my company revenue since it is a sole proprietorship. I was bled dry for over a year and had to end it before I was in complete ruin. So I ended up submitting. I’d have a sweet pile to spend if that wasn’t the current situation. I’d have just bought a 23 or 24 SP2 if I could find one. In two years it will be over and I can buy another to add to the collection.

I wasn’t really planning on the calipers. I was curious what you’d have to say about it.

I like the feel of the corsa perches and I have the stylema factory red brembos on the ‘99 and it will stop on a dime. I believe I have the sintered pads in it. Can’t remember. I’ve put so many damn parts on that thing. I’m really anxious to get both of these bikes out on the track soon. I want to feel the differences in the two.

When I remove the mirrors on this bike, will it throw an error on the dash since I’ll be removing the wiring for the blinkers?

I bought a tail light delete this morning after I removed the tail tidy kit that was installed previously-which for some reason was also throwing an error message but I heard that was a well known issue with the tail tidy on this model and it was later corrected by NRC.

I haven’t seen or heard of a delete plug for the blinkers…

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no error for unpluging the binkers, first thing i did on my V4 (i run a single bar end mirror on street, and nothing of course on track)

I have aftermarket fender eliminator Fulcrume Design, i like this one as it makes it almost impossible for toll cameras to pick up the plate, and also very difficult for dash cams to get a read as well...


i had heard the NRC ones came with a plug, but i dont know for sure. I just tape the rear lights when i'm on track.

Jag

SirJAG said:

just the sprocket changing will require a trip to the dealer to reset and relearn, i dont think many people have been successful doing it on their own with whatever handheld they purchased..

Jag

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That's pretty interesting. Of all the tools available to the us non-dealers you would think one could reset the sprocket ratios.

theclaw said:

That's pretty interesting. Of all the tools available to the us non-dealers you would think one could reset the sprocket ratios.

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ducati's way of saying dont Fuook with gearing...

NWA1199s said:

I’ve got plenty of permatex. Is there a reason you use it vs. the threebond stuff that they recommend? What kind of bike are you riding 15k miles a year? That’s a lot of miles!

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Sloth. I've been using the stuff since it first showed up as GMS (general motors sealant). If the surface is clean and it's applied right it never leaks. Mostly I'm riding the 1098SF or the V4SF. I use them as baggers to travel on in the west. Lots of fine twisty roads in the west.

SirJAG said:

just the sprocket changing will require a trip to the dealer to reset and relearn, i dont think many people have been successful doing it on their own with whatever handheld they purchased..

and of course, a full exhaust will require tune.

nothing else i mentioned would impact the computer.

Jag

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His bike is early enough he should be able to recalibrate after a gearing change. You'll need an OBDstar or something similar. Ride the bike run a calibration. Change the gearing. Connect the OBDstar and go into the special functions portion of the ecu and reset both the DQS and transmission adaptives. Now ride the bike and do a calibration. Should work.

SirJAG said:

go here
https://sprocketcenter.com/c-1391447-street-ducati-1199-panigale-all-models-2012-2015.html

you need Superlite sprockets, ZVM-X2 chain in the color you want, this is the best chain on market right now, i was getting 20K plus miles!

You can use the OEM flange cover, but I like the aftermarket ones myself, you will need a carrier though that holds the new sprocket. You can reuse the OEM cush drives, they last a good 10k miles, or get new poly ones with titanium bolts/nuts!

If you got that racetorx shifter support, great job! that is a quality product that paired with good rearsets (the stock are pure shittei, and youll have a bolt action rifle feeling when shifting!

The oberon is clutch too. Next up would be the oem lever and perch...IF you think you need that after you drive the bike some after all the recent changes.

Click to expand...

You might as well go to 520. The V4's are easier on chains then the twins. I use ZVM's also.

I was thinking about switching to the 520 as well. Do yall prefer steel or aluminum?

Has anyone seen or installed the Ceracarbon sprocket that AEM makes? IM NOT BUYING OR INSTALLING ONE, just to be clear. If I were crushing it on the track, had the surplus money, and was not in my 40s, I’d buy one to try it out. I won’t even lie. I buy stuff for my bikes on occasion that is overkill. I like nice things and work hard for my money, but I generally try to buy things that are more practical.

Just wondering if anyone knows or has used one. I think it’s a fascinating material and application.

Which is the best choice? And this bike will barely see 1000 miles a year if that matters

NWA1199s said:

I was thinking about switching to the 520 as well. Do yall prefer steel or aluminum?

Has anyone seen or installed the Ceracarbon sprocket that AEM makes? IM NOT BUYING OR INSTALLING ONE, just to be clear. If I were crushing it on the track, had the surplus money, and was not in my 40s, I’d buy one to try it out. I won’t even lie. I buy stuff for my bikes on occasion that is overkill. I like nice things and work hard for my money, but I generally try to buy things that are more practical.

Just wondering if anyone knows or has used one. I think it’s a fascinating material and application.

Which is the best choice? And this bike will barely see 1000 miles a year if that matters

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i say get the steel and at your milage, never replace a chain/sprocket again!

Al will degrade faster, i dont like them for that reason alone.

Never heard of Ceracarbon...but.. @Steven31371 prolly has heard of it...and that guy knows his aftermarket parts!

Jag

I was thinking steel, but also aluminum since it would last me longer than it might last others because of the mileage. I love riding but the joy of it has been overcome with the constant risk of being run off the road or someone pulling out and me broadsiding them with my bike. It happens way too often where I live and I don’t see it getting better. Im just going to trailer my bikes to the track a couple hours away in Tulsa.

Im not trying to shed weight so steel will likely be the choice and like you said, be done with it. I think suspension and tires are probably going to be my main areas of focus once I get this thing humming again.

Exhaust, tires, tune, windscreen, suspension, and new throttle assembly is what remains on the list.

Frame sliders as well. I feel like that’s a good investment. I really like the Aella sliders. I’ve also heard TRex sliders are really solid. Anyone have those?

NWA1199s said:

I was thinking steel, but also aluminum since it would last me longer than it might last others because of the mileage. I love riding but the joy of it has been overcome with the constant risk of being run off the road or someone pulling out and me broadsiding them with my bike. It happens way too often where I live and I don’t see it getting better. Im just going to trailer my bikes to the track a couple hours away in Tulsa.

Im not trying to shed weight so steel will likely be the choice and like you said, be done with it. I think suspension and tires are probably going to be my main areas of focus once I get this thing humming again.

Exhaust, tires, tune, windscreen, suspension, and new throttle assembly is what remains on the list.

Frame sliders as well. I feel like that’s a good investment. I really like the Aella sliders. I’ve also heard TRex sliders are really solid. Anyone have those?

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my only interaction with any frame sliders....i dont think ill ever try one again either...

https://ducatiforum.com/t/check-those-frame-sliders-yall.53586/

Jetprime for the throttle.

I wouldn't suggest frame sliders. A better idea is to get the GB racing covers for the clutch and sator.

https://www.motomillion.com/product...KDdvCZafL9QMud0jvg-v7W&variant=14043972698178

If you want a better looking product, the Lightech ones look nice.

https://www.wrs.it/en/engine-guards...2022-8052393392158.html#/179-color-nero_opaco

https://www.wrs.it/en/engine-guards...2022-8052393392189.html#/179-color-nero_opaco

R&G lock stop savers are a good idea too.

https://www.bellissimoto.com/parts/...op-savers-for-ducati-panigale-v4-s-r-speciale

If you want to see what is likely to get damaged in a crash...

https://www.youtube.com/@TxDucatiRacer

I have the lightech billet engine covers on my 1199s.

My reluctance in frame sliders is the points at which they mount to the engine. I just feel like a crash that is bad enough to break them, would also break the engine cases or damage the block or heads. I would definitely prefer to have them mount on the main chassis portion if anything.

I got billet protectors for the lower covers and will just get protectors for the wheels.

@SirJAG, those pics have definitely deterred me. I know it’s just one experience but I’d rather learn from yours instead of have my own. You said that you’ve laid that bike down a number of times. That did kind of make me pause for a second. lol.

I guess I should be preparing myself for laying my bike down, potentially, on the track? I might remind everyone, that I’ve never been on the track and really have no idea what to expect. What I will have, aside from the lack of desire to lay down my bikes, is protection! I’ve broken my back, neck, hands, toes, ribs, and have a rebuilt shoulder and someone else’s kneecap after 5 knee surgeries between the two of them. I’ve also been run over by a car twice and shot once. I’m running out of cat lives. I am going to buy a one piece suit, the one I have currently is a two piece, I plan to get an air vest and whatever top notch protection that I can suit up with. Feel free to chime in on that, everyone.

I’m thinking alpinestars for the vest. I don’t need a brand name on a suit so I’m open to any brand from head to toe. I don’t even care what it looks like. I just want it to keep my skin and bones intact if I go down

Buy a custom one piece suit with the airbag built in. Custom suits are expensive but worth it IMHO. I've pavement surfed a number of times (killed a deer one time) but I've walked away pretty much unscathed but I've always been fully suited and when the armored suits started to show up I went to them. Big fan of Daytona Security boots BTW.

NWA1199s said:

@SirJAG, those pics have definitely deterred me. I know it’s just one experience but I’d rather learn from yours instead of have my own. You said that you’ve laid that bike down a number of times. That did kind of make me pause for a second. lol.

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I misstyped. Ive been down enough on bikes to know what to look for. Ive never been down on my 1199 or 1299, or V4.

My last big wreck was in 2004. I was hit from behind and on the side by a sports car that passed me in my own lane, then turned right into me...pushed me into a guard rail around 70mph. Spent a year in a wheel chair and had 13x surgeries to get me all patched back up. Well over a year on crutches.

To this day, i have little to no feeling in my right foot and ankle all the way to about 4in above the knee, and I cannot pull my toes up on my right leg either, so rear brake use for me has been non existent since 2004!

Jag

SirJAG said:

I misstyped. Ive been down enough on bikes to know what to look for. Ive never been down on my 1199 or 1299, or V4.

My last big wreck was in 2004. I was hit from behind and on the side by a sports car that passed me in my own lane, then turned right into me...pushed me into a guard rail around 70mph. Spent a year in a wheel chair and had 13x surgeries to get me all patched back up. Well over a year on crutches.

To this day, i have little to no feeling in my right foot and ankle all the way to about 4in above the knee, and I cannot pull my toes up on my right leg either, so rear brake use for me has been non existent since 2004!

Jag

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Damn. I hate hearing that. Makes my surgeries and broken bones sound like I deserve a “poor you” response. Hence why I’m taking it to the track. At least it’s more of a controlled environment and I might even unlock something in my riding. The odds of me buying a custom suit this year are slim to none. I’ll end up sticking with a rev it or alpinestars suit or something of the like with an airbag under it. I’m more or less floating this venture on cash that I stash throughout the year. Maybe get lucky on some closeout gear that offers solid protection and such. Also try to keep my tires stuck to the surface the best I can.