V4s mods, where to start?

pull the tank, then you can get to the rear..the front is a lot bigger job...i think you gotta remove the radiator.... i think***

SMH. Here’s the way my brain will work with that situation… if I have to pull the tank, might as well check the injectors just because, if I have to pull the front apart, I might as well remove the exhaust and put in a full system, and I might even tape off the upper chassis and paint it black because I hate the silver. Or I might even polish the aluminum so it has a brushed finish or go shiny. I hate taking the front apart. I’d have to do new hoses too. I think I’ll just crank it up later, let it run for a while, do it again tomorrow, keep an eye out for any water in the oil again.

getting into airbox will be a real chore, take good pre pictures so you can route the cabling back the way it was. when/if you do this, share some pictures i wanna know how much oil mist and dust you got inside there...

jag

If you want to merely look in the air box, use an inspection camera through the air inlet. You have to remove the air filter of course.

If you’re serious about getting into the air box, I suggest familiarizing yourself with the removal/refitting procedures concerning the variable stacks.

Removing the radiator isn’t terrible. Think of the radiator, fans, oil cooler and radiator shroud as an assembly. With some work, you can take it off as one large piece, and it helps to remove the front wheel so you have more working room.

NWA1199s said:

Every little bit helps. I’m always curious what others are doing. The suspension is something that I haven’t had a lot of hands on experience with. There isn’t a dealer or anyone to work on my bikes within a few hours, if I could get ahold of someone. So I do most things myself. I’m 185 without gear so this info is definitely useful. Thank you.

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If its a base V4 with Showa and you are doing track riding, my recommendation would be to put the NIX30 Ohlins cartridge kit in it and a TTX shock.
I say this because I have ridden a 2018 base with these and it is an awesome handling race bike. And these are easy to fit yourself with a few specific tools.

I am no expert and i cant really give you a spring recommendation and you may not even like they way i like my bike, but Interesting in the local clubs here, it seems everyone on 600/100cc bike in my weight range seem to run between 10-11 fork springs? It just seems to work at our tracks which have heavy breaking.
If you have a set of 10 and a set of 11 then you can mix and have a 10.5. I have the standard 9.5 springs and a set of 10.5 so currently i am set up as 10.

The best advise i ever had on suspension was from Jeremy burgess (Rossi's old crew chief). Our club got him to come for presentation night and then he spent the next day at our ride day handing out in the pits.

He told me that they best money i could spend was get a few different set of springs and try them and not to get too caught up in clickers. He said most of the changes they make in motogp are Geometry (springs, linkages and preload) not so much rebound and compression, as once the suspension velocity is in the right range they rarely change the clickers. This was surprising to me.

He also said the biggest mistake club racers make when changing setting is to to make small ones. He said if you make a change make a big one in either direction so you can feel the difference, then come back from there.

NWA1199s said:

I was just looking at chain and sprocket sets. Unfortunately I am of the mindset that if I have it torn down, and need something like a new chain, I go ahead and get a whole new set up I.e., chain, sprocket, carrier.

The clutch felt squishy so I bought an Oberon slave, and since I did that I went ahead and got a new clutch line.

The quick shifter feels like it could be acting weird but there is a lot of wiggle in the oem rearset so I ordered new rear sets and a stabilizer mount for the quick shifter. I have a very large foot and I think the oem rears and the slop, plus the clutch being real squishy, etc., is what gave me the notion that it was acting weird.

My OCD is killing me. I’ve already bought way too much stuff for this bike-but I love that part!

is there a chain/sprocket/hub assembly that you’d recommend @SirJAG? I’m curious what others might recommend as well. I’m not trying to change hearing at this point. The chain on here has some rust spots and it looks kind of ...... because the bike sat in a carport for quite a while. I’d hate to have a bad link somewhere and it knock a hole in the back of my motor case if it broke loose.

I’m not really worried about street bling with a chain set up. What’s the best option for some track days and not much else?

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the OEM quickshifters are terrible. I cant believe they use them to be honest.
My bike only have 3000km and it is starting to play up already. I nearly threw me through the screen when it hit a false neutral last weekend. I did speak to them about warranty but i dont want another the same so I will be putting a translogic straingauge sensor on it very soon.

Also on the sealant, personally i use three bond exclusively, i have had my 1198 motor apart too many times to mention and it seals very well and is so easy to remove when you need to. Also use it on my sump plug each time, but i leave it a day before refilling.

yoshiboldor said:

the OEM quickshifters are terrible. I cant believe they use them to be honest.
My bike only have 3000km and it is starting to play up already. I nearly threw me through the screen when it hit a false neutral last weekend. I did speak to them about warranty but i dont want another the same so I will be putting a translogic straingauge sensor on it very soon.

Also on the sealant, personally i use three bond exclusively, i have had my 1198 motor apart too many times to mention and it seals very well and is so easy to remove when you need to. Also use it on my sump plug each time, but i leave it a day before refilling.

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Mine is an “S” I have manual conversion kit in my 1199”s” and the electronic forks. I wanted to try both so I could adjust either way and learn more about the manual adjustments. Ultimately I think it will come down to drivability and adjustability on the v4s and I’ll just have to feel that out once I track it. I have been in touch with Penske about a rear shock for my other bike and I might see what they say about this one. I’ve heard that a Penske rear shock is butter. I am going to put an emphasis on suspension and tires for sure, on this one. I want to give myself the best chance possible to keep the most traction possible. I say that I’ll be out there for fun and I plan to take it easy, but that’s assuming and planning that I will be able to not let my nature take over and the bike not be completely ready for me to start mashing it all of a sudden.

yoshiboldor said:

the OEM quickshifters are terrible. I cant believe they use them to be honest.
My bike only have 3000km and it is starting to play up already. I nearly threw me through the screen when it hit a false neutral last weekend. I did speak to them about warranty but i dont want another the same so I will be putting a translogic straingauge sensor on it very soon.

Also on the sealant, personally i use three bond exclusively, i have had my 1198 motor apart too many times to mention and it seals very well and is so easy to remove when you need to. Also use it on my sump plug each time, but i leave it a day before refilling.

Click to expand...

I might go with the rapid bike racing module and if so, it also has a quickshifter that can be paired with it. I have it on my other bike and I like it. IRC is what I used on my 999s. They are pretty solid

NWA1199s said:

Mine is an “S” I have manual conversion kit in my 1199”s” and the electronic forks. I wanted to try both so I could adjust either way and learn more about the manual adjustments. Ultimately I think it will come down to drivability and adjustability on the v4s and I’ll just have to feel that out once I track it. I have been in touch with Penske about a rear shock for my other bike and I might see what they say about this one. I’ve heard that a Penske rear shock is butter. I am going to put an emphasis on suspension and tires for sure, on this one. I want to give myself the best chance possible to keep the most traction possible. I say that I’ll be out there for fun and I plan to take it easy, but that’s assuming and planning that I will be able to not let my nature take over and the bike not be completely ready for me to start mashing it all of a sudden.

Click to expand...

BP PanigaleV4S said:

If you want to merely look in the air box, use an inspection camera through the air inlet. You have to remove the air filter of course.

If you’re serious about getting into the air box, I suggest familiarizing yourself with the removal/refitting procedures concerning the variable stacks.

Removing the radiator isn’t terrible. Think of the radiator, fans, oil cooler and radiator shroud as an assembly. With some work, you can take it off as one large piece, and it helps to remove the front wheel so you have more working room.

Click to expand...

I do have to change out the air filter with the one that @SirJAG recommended. I might have an inspection camera laying around that I use for plumbing.

yoshiboldor said:

the OEM quickshifters are terrible. I cant believe they use them to be honest.
My bike only have 3000km and it is starting to play up already. I nearly threw me through the screen when it hit a false neutral last weekend. I did speak to them about warranty but i dont want another the same so I will be putting a translogic straingauge sensor on it very soon.

Click to expand...

I'm not sure the false neutral has to do with the QS, but I agree they aren't the best. Are you using GP shift?

Also, don't go Translogic or Cordona for an aftermarket QS. The HM QS is a strain gauge, but allows you to make adjustments.

https://reactiveparts.com/hm-quicks...ensor-ducati-panigale-v4-v4s-v4-speciale.html

https://www.hmquickshifteruk.com/product/hm-oem-blipper-replacement-for-ducati/63

It doesn't adjust cut or blip time or percentage but rather the voltage the ECU sees. One of the wires on the QS sends a voltage directly to the ECU. It has one value at idle, one for an upshift and one for a downshift. Strain gauges vary the voltage depending on how much force you apply. You can see this with a diagnostic tool. The OEM QS is always the same three values regardless of the force you use. The HM adjustment makes it so whatever force you choose to shift with matches up to the ECU expected value. With the Cordona, it seemed to prefer a light quick touch, whereas I was more forceful with it which led to me preferring the OEM (Domino) QS.