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Kramer will have a new batch ready by February or April…that’s not Soooo far off

Hate to say it, but to get it to handle anywhere close to like the Kramer you are probably gunna need to put another $8k into the Ducati.

i.e. ThysenKrupp wheels and Sicom rotors.

nothing will ever get the bike to the lightness of the Kramer and how that feels, but if you remove 15 pounds of so of rotating mass off the bike it FEELS like you removed 50 pounds from the bike.

It was the COMBINATION of dramatically reducing the gyroscopic forces on the bike via reduced rotating mass weight, with adding stability via more trail that got the bike feeling really really good for me.

I'm a believer in wheels - look closely at the picture above, the Kramer is on carbon wheels. At the moment, the V4 is purely a distraction/hold over till the GP2 arrives but if that changes and I decide to keep it, carbon wheels are a must do. Carbon rotors, no. My track car had carbon rotors and I converted to steel and never looked back. Carbon rotors are great for street, but don't hold up to track use. Plenty of literature as to why.

You guys do realize that the Kramer is a race bike from the ground up?

Yes, I do know what it is, given I own the bike haha.

Kramer tops out at 122 mph with stock gearing (38 T rear), 127 with 37 tooth rear.
 
I've always heard the opposite. Carbon is great for high heat, but don't really work as good as steel until they get hot.

Rapid wear with track use is a well documented phenomenon with PCCB’s (despite their longevity on the street). Many Porsche owners who track their cars switch the ceramics out for steels.
 
Rapid wear with track use is a well documented phenomenon with PCCB’s (despite their longevity on the street). Many Porsche owners who track their cars switch the ceramics out for steels.
Kramer will have a new batch ready by February or April…that’s not Soooo far off

Hate to say it, but to get it to handle anywhere close to like the Kramer you are probably gunna need to put another $8k into the Ducati.

i.e. ThysenKrupp wheels and Sicom rotors.

nothing will ever get the bike to the lightness of the Kramer and how that feels, but if you remove 15 pounds of so of rotating mass off the bike it FEELS like you removed 50 pounds from the bike.

I own a tracked Porsche, and yes, you take the carbon ceramic rotors off and go with iron, not because they wear faster, they actually wear slower, but they do wear out, and to replace them on Porsche is $20k…so even though they last 7 times longer than iron rotors that cost $700 you don’t wanna have to spend $20k EVER to replace them.

I’m fine with running Ceramic rotors on a track BIKE though….for several reasons:

1. While expensive they don’t cost over $20k to replace.

2. The heat and breaking forces generated from stopping a bike amount to about about 1100 pounds of inertial weight to stop at about 2G’s on two rotors on the Ducati, with my Porsche it’s about 7700 pounds of inertial weight that two rotors have to stop…that’s ALOT more wear, a lot more retained heat etc….

3. The Sicom Carbon Ceramic rotors come with a special pad specific to them, when you use those pads (this from the manufacturer) the pads and the rotors continuously pass material back and and forth and there is little to no brake dust, so according to Sicom, theoretically the pads and rotors should NEVER wear out when used together….it’s a completely new technology.

I chose the Brembro GP4-MS Calipers specifically because I could use the Sicom pads with the Sicom rotors.

Sicom told me that they have never once had somebody order a new set of pads even on their race team bikes, and he straight up chuckled when I asked about the life of the rotors for track use…he said they haven’t even had someone go through a set of pads yet, much less a rotor in heavy track use or anywhere else.

Those rotors, out of dozens of mods, are by far my best purchase, abs the one that made the biggest noticeable difference on the bike…for those of you that have gone from forged wheels to carbon wheels, you know how much more agile the wheels make the bike…the rotors have the same affect but on steroids, a much bigger handling improvement than the gap between forged wheels and CF wheels.

With all the mods I’ve done, if it’s in your budget to do it, I’d do the Sicom rotor mods literally before any other mod, even before dialing in your suspension because it so profoundly influences handling that you need to adjust your suspension and geometry again after putting them on.
 
Rapid wear with track use is a well documented phenomenon with PCCB’s (despite their longevity on the street). Many Porsche owners who track their cars switch the ceramics out for steels.

There are one or two guys on here with carbon/ceramic rotors that claim they have measured their rotors with a micrometer after a season or two with no change in thickness.

From everything I have read I don’t think anybody is using up carbon/ceramic rotors over the life of their bikes.
 
There are one or two guys on here with carbon/ceramic rotors that claim they have measured their rotors with a micrometer after a season or two with no change in thickness.

From everything I have read I don’t think anybody is using up carbon/ceramic rotors over the life of their bikes.

Exactly…different compound than on the Porsche, different forces applied altogether.
 
I own a tracked Porsche, and yes, you take the carbon ceramic rotors off and go with iron, not because they wear faster, they actually wear slower, but they do wear out, and to replace them on Porsche is $20k…so even though they last 7 times longer than iron rotors that cost $700 you don’t wanna have to spend $20k EVER to replace them.

I’m fine with running Ceramic rotors on a track BIKE though….for several reasons:

1. While expensive they don’t cost over $20k to replace.

2. The heat and breaking forces generated from stopping a bike amount to about about 1100 pounds of inertial weight to stop at about 2G’s on two rotors on the Ducati, with my Porsche it’s about 7700 pounds of inertial weight that two rotors have to stop…that’s ALOT more wear, a lot more retained heat etc….

3. The Sicom Carbon Ceramic rotors come with a special pad specific to them, when you use those pads (this from the manufacturer) the pads and the rotors continuously pass material back and and forth and there is little to no brake dust, so according to Sicom, theoretically the pads and rotors should NEVER wear out when used together….it’s a completely new technology.

I chose the Brembro GP4-MS Calipers specifically because I could use the Sicom pads with the Sicom rotors.

Sicom told me that they have never once had somebody order a new set of pads even on their race team bikes, and he straight up chuckled when I asked about the life of the rotors for track use…he said they haven’t even had someone go through a set of pads yet, much less a rotor in heavy track use or anywhere else.

Those rotors, out of dozens of mods, are by far my best purchase, abs the one that made the biggest noticeable difference on the bike…for those of you that have gone from forged wheels to carbon wheels, you know how much more agile the wheels make the bike…the rotors have the same affect but on steroids, a much bigger handling improvement than the gap between forged wheels and CF wheels.

With all the mods I’ve done, if it’s in your budget to do it, I’d do the Sicom rotor mods literally before any other mod, even before dialing in your suspension because it so profoundly influences handling that you need to adjust your suspension and geometry again after putting them on.

Again, I 100% believe and agree with you on the positive impact they make to riding dynamics. No arguments there. I will say two things about durability and maturity of carbon braking technology -

  1. It is well known among the car tracking community that CCBs are just for show and don't suit track driving. The science behind it is well proven and I am including some of the literature in the post below, links are also posted to support.
  2. Heat generated in a motorcycle caliper is not just determined by inertial mass (though that is a contributing factor obviously). Heat in caliper is more correlated to rider ability and braking style. On my Kramer which only weighs 260 lbs wet and I only weigh 150 lbs (so extremely low kinetic mass), I go through brake pads every 4 sessions on track. That is correct, new pads EVERY 4 SESSIONS. You know why? The single caliper system is very poor at heat dissipation and I outbrake motards/brake past the 1 board at every corner carrying a ton of speed with me every time I touch the brake lever. Brake pads on the V4 that makes 3 times more power and weighs 160 additional pounds last 4 times as longer than the Kramer. To manage the heat in the single caliper system (which I like because it is light), I run ducabike caliper radiators, braketech stainless caliper pistons and castrol SRF fluid (best brake fluid known to man with extremely high wet boiling point). I still go through pads as fast as I go through gas.
So yeah, heat is heat. And Carbon rotors are not there yet to cope with heat. If you have a motogp team and can replace them every race or every qualifying session, sure. Otherwise, stick with iron / stainless.
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"However, for these pros, there are a few cons. Firstly, although carbon-ceramic brakes can theoretically last longer on the street, they still degrade quickly during repeated racetrack use. Enough that Porsche had to stop claiming its brakes could “’ last virtually for the life of the car,’” Autoblog reports.

"the single biggest problem with carbon ceramic discs is that they oxidize at track temperatures. If you refer to the section above on how carbon ceramic discs are manufactured, you’ll remember that the final step is to paint a coating on the discs that protects the carbon fiber strands from burning up and turning into carbon dioxide gas at high temperatures. Unfortunately, the current technology embedded in that coating is not sufficient to protect carbon ceramic discs on today’s crop of heavy, powerful sportscars under severe track conditions"

" High disc surface temperatures- The temperatures on a carbon ceramic disc face can run a couple hundred degrees C higher than a similarly sized iron disc under comparable track conditions. The result is more heat pouring into your pads, caliper pistons, piston seals, and brake fluid, which necessitates more frequent caliper rebuilds, and a higher likelihood of boiling the brake fluid.
Low thermal conductivity- Heat does not flow through carbon as readily as it does through iron, which causes numerous issues. First, carbon ceramic discs rely on radiation from a large surface area to cool. Whereas an iron disc can leverage intricately shaped internal vanes to introduce cooling air and carry away heat, the heat is not as evenly dispersed throughout a carbon disc. Carbon ceramic discs therefore are not very effective at leveraging brake ducts. Instead, carbon ceramic discs have a very wide friction face, or swept area, to radiate as much heat as possible. Another downside to the larger swept area is that the pads required to mate to the discs are very large and expensive, as pad prices are typically proportional to size."

Are carbon ceramic brake discs better than iron? | Essex Parts Services, Inc.
Is Giving Your Car Carbon-Ceramic Brakes Worth It? (motorbiscuit.com)

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Well we’ll see this next year I guess, I plan on doing as many track days as I can with those rotors, we’ll see how they hold up.

My thoughts are they will hold up great…heat dissipation is completely different on these than on my Porsche rotors…it’s a different material with different thermodynamics altogether, and they have MUCH LESS MASS that’s completely open to the air, not inclosed in a wheel well.
 
Well we’ll see this next year I guess, I plan on doing as many track days as I can with those rotors, we’ll see how they hold up.

My thoughts are they will hold up great…heat dissipation is completely different on these than on my Porsche rotors…it’s a different material with different thermodynamics altogether, and they have MUCH LESS MASS that’s completely open to the air, not inclosed in a wheel well.
Ok keep us posted. Would love to keep tabs on your experience. See if you can weigh them now and again next season, weighing is how you tell the life/wear on carbon rotors (you probably already know).

How much mass did they reduce on the v4 compared to OEM steel brakes?
 
Ok keep us posted. Would love to keep tabs on your experience. See if you can weigh them now and again next season, weighing is how you tell the life/wear on carbon rotors (you probably already know).

How much mass did they reduce on the v4 compared to OEM steel brakes?

That’s the crazy bit, it’s a 5 POUNDS of rotating mass reduction on the front axle. Completely transformed the bike.

As an aside, I was thinking I’d love to have this rotor compound on my Porsche versus the Carbon Ceramic compound in the factory CC rotors.

But I suspect cost would make that prohibitive…the material that goes into them is made in one place in the world, and it’s $4000 for the Ducati Sicom rotors which are a 1/12 of the material needed to put them on a Porsch by my loose visual calculations….so to put this rotor material on a Porsche, you’re talking about a $50,000 set of rotors.

No one in their right mind would spend R&D and Engineering dollars to produce a set of commercially available rotors for a $50,000 retail price…the audience would just be too small for that.
 
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That’s the crazy bit, it’s a 5 POUNDS of rotating mass reduction on the front axle. Completely transformed the bike.
By completely transformed the bike, do you mean turned it into an unmanageable pig? Because all I’m hearing is that it’s turned into a handling nightmare and bottomless money pit.
 
By completely transformed the bike, do you mean turned it into an unmanageable pig? Because all I’m hearing is that it’s turned into a handling nightmare and bottomless money pit.

Something tells me that you’ve never modified or improved or attempted to improve anything in your life or anyone else’s, and I’m not just talking about Motorsports lol

But if you ever DO, you’ll learn that very rarely can you improve one thing and get full benefit of the upgrade without upgrading the systems around it too. Doing so is only a money pit if you’re spending money you don’t have or on something you don’t WANT to spend money on.

I’m also not surprised that “all you’re hearing is that you turned it into a handling nightmare and bottomless money pit”…I’m not surprised, because there is an organelle in the brain called the reticular activating system that functions as your mind’s filtering mechanism deciding what part of reality you filter in and what you filter out. Turns out that the reticular activating system is programmed via confirmation bias, where it lets in stuff that confirms their bias, and filters out stuff that is contrary to their existing bias’s.

So me saying that I was able to make the bike lighter, faster, more stable, with great turn in and handling getting interpreted by you as: “It’s a pig that’s a handling nightmare and money pit” says way more about your mental patterns than the reality of the situation.


Now bigger off, back to the ‘ignore’ button for you haha….great feature, completely hides your mental diarrhea posts from me lol
 
Something tells me that you’ve never modified or improved or attempted to improve anything in your life or anyone else’s, and I’m not just talking about Motorsports lol

But if you ever DO, you’ll learn that very rarely can you improve one thing and get full benefit of the upgrade without upgrading the systems around it too. Doing so is only a money pit if you’re spending money you don’t have or on something you don’t WANT to spend money on.

I’m also not surprised that “all you’re hearing is that you turned it into a handling nightmare and bottomless money pit”…I’m not surprised, because there is an organelle in the brain called the reticular activating system that functions as your mind’s filtering mechanism deciding what part of reality you filter in and what you filter out. Turns out that the reticular activating system is programmed via confirmation bias, where it lets in stuff that confirms their bias, and filters out stuff that is contrary to their existing bias’s.

So me saying that I was able to make the bike lighter, faster, more stable, with great turn in and handling getting interpreted by you as: “It’s a pig that’s a handling nightmare and money pit” says way more about your mental patterns than the reality of the situation.


Now bigger off, back to the ‘ignore’ button for you haha….great feature, completely hides your mental diarrhea posts from me lol
Are you sure you haven’t put your reticular activating system on ignore? I’m not trying to be .... but what you’ve posted is
  1. I put on carbon wheels and carbon rotors and now the handling is sketchy ($8000)
  2. I’m going to fix this with adjustable triples ($700)
  3. I increase the final drive ratio and now it wheelies too much ($150)
  4. I’m going to fix this with an extended swingarm ($7000)
How am I wrong on calling this a money pit? These “upgrades” cost you $16k and have just led to problems.

And I upgraded particular parts of my 959. Each one of them improved the bike and I didn’t make the bike handle worse. I put on proper forged wheels instead of bling-bling carbon wheels which dropped 14 lbs off unsprung rotating weight (stock 959 wheels are made of lead) which is close to what you dropped on your carbon wheels/rotors. My bike handles much better with them. No need for new triples. I put on upgraded suspension which improved things further but didn’t need a new swingarm.

You literally have ridden 1 track day (that I’m aware of) and you’re in the Beginner group yet you’re riding an “upgraded” poseur mobile and have it twisted in knots because you have no idea what you’re doing.

But yeah my reticular activating system is off…
 
Are you sure you haven’t put your reticular activating system on ignore? I’m not trying to be .... but what you’ve posted is
  1. I put on carbon wheels and carbon rotors and now the handling is sketchy ($8000)
  2. I’m going to fix this with adjustable triples ($700)
  3. I increase the final drive ratio and now it wheelies too much ($150)
  4. I’m going to fix this with an extended swingarm ($7000)
How am I wrong on calling this a money pit? These “upgrades” cost you $16k and have just led to problems.

And I upgraded particular parts of my 959. Each one of them improved the bike and I didn’t make the bike handle worse. I put on proper forged wheels instead of bling-bling carbon wheels which dropped 14 lbs off unsprung rotating weight (stock 959 wheels are made of lead) which is close to what you dropped on your carbon wheels/rotors. My bike handles much better with them. No need for new triples. I put on upgraded suspension which improved things further but didn’t need a new swingarm.

You literally have ridden 1 track day (that I’m aware of) and you’re in the Beginner group yet you’re riding an “upgraded” poseur mobile and have it twisted in knots because you have no idea what you’re doing.

But yeah my reticular activating system is off…

What you’re not getting, is that each improvement did not set the bike back, the entire system is elevated.

A bike has to be in balance, meaning if you improve one area dramatically but not any others you take the bike out of balance…meaning you will likely have to improve other parts of the system to balance it.

Why would you do this, because the end result is an an entire system improvement, i.e. a faster lighter bike that handles like a bike 100 pounds lighter but still feels stable and fun.

“These “upgrades” cost you $16k and have just led to problems.”

That’s the bit your reticular activating system got dead wrong…you seemed to have missed the part about the bike being lighter, faster, funner, more responsive, like a flea flicking back and forth on transitions, while still being disable by a mere mortal like me.

All of which I’ve said, but you glossed over and only focussed on what needed to rebalance a now elevated system…i.e. what you call problems, and I call the fun of building a better bike.

You also added in some dramatic mid-characterizations…like “Unmanageable pig”

So far the bikes Ben very manageable
 
About to pull the trigger on triples for my track V4S. Can someone school me on the options? Stock offset is 30 mm? What are race bikes going to? 28? Or lower? I remember back from my 848 days that 28mm offsets would make the tire rub the belly pan under hard braking. Any of those clearance issues to watch out for with the V4S?

At what offset do you need longer forks? Asked another way, how low can I go on the offsets with stock ohlins forks (Don’t know their length)

My goal is to increase trail and thereby increase front-end stability. Extra rigidity benefits are incidental and welcome, but doing this to dial out the headshake while leaned over and decel/braking.

Thanks all.
Stock offset is 30mm this is a comparison with a stock V4R with 25 and 28mm offset.
 

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Are you sure you haven’t put your reticular activating system on ignore? I’m not trying to be .... but what you’ve posted is
  1. I put on carbon wheels and carbon rotors and now the handling is sketchy ($8000)
  2. I’m going to fix this with adjustable triples ($700)
  3. I increase the final drive ratio and now it wheelies too much ($150)
  4. I’m going to fix this with an extended swingarm ($7000)
How am I wrong on calling this a money pit? These “upgrades” cost you $16k and have just led to problems.

And I upgraded particular parts of my 959. Each one of them improved the bike and I didn’t make the bike handle worse. I put on proper forged wheels instead of bling-bling carbon wheels which dropped 14 lbs off unsprung rotating weight (stock 959 wheels are made of lead) which is close to what you dropped on your carbon wheels/rotors. My bike handles much better with them. No need for new triples. I put on upgraded suspension which improved things further but didn’t need a new swingarm.

You literally have ridden 1 track day (that I’m aware of) and you’re in the Beginner group yet you’re riding an “upgraded” poseur mobile and have it twisted in knots because you have no idea what you’re doing.

But yeah my reticular activating system is off…

Come on man, no need for name calling and bashing each other.

Steve has good taste (from what I can tell from the components he buys) and the means to exercise that good taste. He should be able to do that without having to justify his riding abilities to you or me. People spend $50M to hang a painting on their wall because they can. So people should be free to spend $50 grand on carbon wheels and rotors and whatnot because they can. What brings you pleasure is different from what brings me pleasure or Steve, and it is often unrelated to lap times around a circuit. As it should be.

Cliff notes: there is no right answer on internet vehicle forums. You can argue passionately, but ultimately, you need to be open minded about what everyone else is doing.
 
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Stock offset is 30mm this is a comparison with a stock V4R with 25 and 28mm offset.

Wow thank you for sharing this. This is fascinating and very useful information.

  1. I assume that if you go to something as drastic as 25mm offset, you need taller forks or fork extensions of some sort?
  2. Is the oil height specified at 200 mm the same as air gap? If it's not the same, do you know what the 200 mm of oil volume equates to for air gap? I thought that air gap and oil level denoted the same thing and I thought the lower the number the more oil volume in the forks aka stiffer forks. I have mine at 150mm and cannot believe that a V4R will be setup with less oil?
My 2018 was 'corrected' with 10.0 springs in front (from 10.5 factory) and 90 spring in rear (from 95 factory). The preload settings my suspension builder set me up with also match that spec sheet. That is encouraging, however brings me back to square one in terms of explaining why I can't the bike to behave at all even after all this.

Does anyone know if the triple clamps in the V4R were different than the V4S / base model?
 
Wow thank you for sharing this. This is fascinating and very useful information.

  1. I assume that if you go to something as drastic as 25mm offset, you need taller forks or fork extensions of some sort?
  2. Is the oil height specified at 200 mm the same as air gap? If it's not the same, do you know what the 200 mm of oil volume equates to for air gap? I thought that air gap and oil level denoted the same thing and I thought the lower the number the more oil volume in the forks aka stiffer forks. I have mine at 150mm and cannot believe that a V4R will be setup with less oil?
My 2018 was 'corrected' with 10.0 springs in front (from 10.5 factory) and 90 spring in rear (from 95 factory). The preload settings my suspension builder set me up with also match that spec sheet. That is encouraging, however brings me back to square one in terms of explaining why I can't the bike to behave at all even after all this.

Does anyone know if the triple clamps in the V4R were different than the V4S / base model?
A higher number is a bigger air gap as you measure the oil height from the top of the fork usually with the fork compressed, the air gap is working only near the bottom of the stroke to stop the fork bottoming out therefore you need a lot of trial and error to get set-up, it usually gets more attention if a race track has only one heavy braking area so you don't have to compromise the rest of the track by having to fit heavier springs to stop the bottoming. Not sure about v4s offset haven't worked on one yet.
 
Wow thank you for sharing this. This is fascinating and very useful information.

  1. I assume that if you go to something as drastic as 25mm offset, you need taller forks or fork extensions of some sort?
  2. Is the oil height specified at 200 mm the same as air gap? If it's not the same, do you know what the 200 mm of oil volume equates to for air gap? I thought that air gap and oil level denoted the same thing and I thought the lower the number the more oil volume in the forks aka stiffer forks. I have mine at 150mm and cannot believe that a V4R will be setup with less oil?
My 2018 was 'corrected' with 10.0 springs in front (from 10.5 factory) and 90 spring in rear (from 95 factory). The preload settings my suspension builder set me up with also match that spec sheet. That is encouraging, however brings me back to square one in terms of explaining why I can't the bike to behave at all even after all this.

Does anyone know if the triple clamps in the V4R were different than the V4S / base model?


Oil level/air gap different way to say the same thing, which is the distance from the top of the fork to where the oil starts.

V4s spec is 230mm with spring and preload tube removed. R is probably somewhere close to that since the overall forks are similar.
 
Wow thank you for sharing this. This is fascinating and very useful information.

  1. I assume that if you go to something as drastic as 25mm offset, you need taller forks or fork extensions of some sort?
  2. Is the oil height specified at 200 mm the same as air gap? If it's not the same, do you know what the 200 mm of oil volume equates to for air gap? I thought that air gap and oil level denoted the same thing and I thought the lower the number the more oil volume in the forks aka stiffer forks. I have mine at 150mm and cannot believe that a V4R will be setup with less oil?
My 2018 was 'corrected' with 10.0 springs in front (from 10.5 factory) and 90 spring in rear (from 95 factory). The preload settings my suspension builder set me up with also match that spec sheet. That is encouraging, however brings me back to square one in terms of explaining why I can't the bike to behave at all even after all this.

Does anyone know if the triple clamps in the V4R were different than the V4S / base model?
The chart is just a base file in the software all I changed we're the offsets if you look the 25mm offset gives you more trail with very similar rake. Shouldn't need to move forks that much
 

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