WEIRD NOISE ENGINE PANIGALE 1199r 2013

I circulated and filtered the oil several times through the mesh filter, until there was no impurity in it.

I went to a specialized workshop and showed the photos and video of my problem and are thinking that the noise of the bike is a problem in the upper cylinder's bearing, due to the golden metal that appeared in the mesh filter, and it is necessary to open the engine to see...

Sounds pricy. You get something golden coming out of a Ducati motor and I bet the repair cost is commensurate with the color of the metal.

There's no doubt that the "specialized" workshop would love to crack your engine open. But consider this... you agree that the basket should be replaced, correct? If the timing cover is removed (a job that you can do yourself, no special tools required), you can inspect the internal components and remove/clean any debris which may have entered the area during the fall. Perhaps you'll find something of interest. In any event, your out of pocket cost... the price of a tube of gasket sealant. To remove the basket, the clutch drum must first be removed. The holding tool required to remove the drum can be purchased from the vehicle manufacturer or aftermarket sources. However, the least expensive approach (by far) is to simply create a template, transfer it to a 1/4" thick steel plate, and create your own holding tool. Your cost... guessing, I'd say around $20.00. If the "specialized" workshop cracks your engine open, they too will undoubtedly want to replace the basket upon completion. When you start the bike and the noise is gone, how will you know if the noise was caused by a bearing issue, or if it was clutch related (or otherwise) all along? They could easily show you a spun bearing from another motor and say, "Look... this was the cause of your problem. You're good to go now. The cashier's up front." Aside from the cost of a new basket, and with a bit of luck, you could walk away from this for $20.00 and the cost of the gasket sealant. I wouldn't split the engine open based solely on the pictures and video. The flakes may have come from the cover or inner cover plate, and the noise heard in the video sounds more like a plastic sound rather than a metallic sound when viewed on my laptop. The point is, based on the pictures and video alone, it's ludicrous to think that any workshop would immediately shout, "Crack the engine!" Proceed as mentioned above or get a second opinion from another "specialized" workshop.

Khmer1199 said:

They could easily show you a spun bearing from another motor and say, "Look... this was the cause of your problem. You're good to go now. The cashier's up front."

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Omg so true

Wise words from Khmer1199. You might find all manner of additional horrors inside the timing cover, in terms of metal fragments. It's not a big job to remove it. You just need to fashion a tool to hold the clutch assembly to allow you to remove the basket first. It might even be the case that you have more debris behind the basket itself. It sounds somewhat presumptious of your dealer to so readily identify a bearing as the culprit without a full diagnosis and even if it were, the noise would be constant not cyclical. The noise might also be partly attributable to the tabs on the clutch plates being able to move laterally, as the slots on the outer periphery of the basket are so badly damaged, though it doesn't sound as though that is necessarily the problem.

Once you have scrupulously cleaned behind the timing cover (you need to ensure you get every single fragment out, if found and check all the gears for any tooth damage, however minor), then replaced and sealed it, then replaced your basket and clutch, you are probably looking at at least one, if not two, oil flushes. It might be that you will have to remove the pan on both occasions as well, to check the mesh filter each time. If you repeatedly keep seeing specs or debris collecting on the pan/filter, it's possible the damage extends beyond the clutch area or debris has been pumped into other areas of the engine, though the filter should in theory trap these. Alternatively there may be additional damage internally that is making metal in which case, you will then have a pretty good idea if you have to split the cases, which really should be your last resort. Consider also that in splitting the cases you will need to replace some seals, possibly bearings as well, so costs can rack up very quickly, not to mention labour.

One last thing, it's possible that the "gold" parts you are seeing are fragments of the magnesium clutch basket cover, which judging by your picture, may easily have been ingested into the engine and broken up on contact with the rotating basket, gears, etc. If you wanted to be really sure, there are companies who can carry out spectral/metallurgical analysis of these fragments to determine exactly where they originated from on the engine, which may further rule out the bearing theory.

Additionally, there is an internal oil screen filter that sits next to the oil pump that is only accessible by splitting the case. Khmer 1199 and Topolino have both provided sound advice. If you have metallic pieces floating around in your motor that have been circulated and want to be 100% sure that there are zero residual consequences then you pull the motor and tear it down. There really isn’t any other way to eliminate the unknown. Anything other than that and you get into fancy math calculating “what if’s”. I think if you follow the advice above, you will have a high probability of success in fixing the obvious and getting the bike back on the road and if there is something more sinister lurking, you will just have to address it if it presents an issue.

I had a tip over that barely scratched the clutch cover. Any chance I’d have anything remotely close to the OP’s internal damage? It was not running and on its side for at most 30 seconds. I swear it sounds different but who knows.

From the extent of the damage shown in the photo, the cover doesn't appear to have been breached, nor does appear to have received a crushing blow that would damage any internal components. Does it really sound different, or is it all in your mind? The clutch engages/disengages properly, yes? You can always remove the clutch cover to satisfy your curiosity. Take a look at the clutch cover's inner cover if you do.

Khmer1199 said:

From the extent of the damage shown in the photo, the cover doesn't appear to have been breached, nor does appear to have received a crushing blow that would damage any internal components. Does it really sound different, or is it all in your mind? The clutch engages/disengages properly, yes? You can always remove the clutch cover to satisfy your curiosity. Take a look at the clutch cover's inner cover if you do.

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I think it’s mostly in my head. Everything works fine but I do hear a lot of clanking but mostly hear the same on other engines. I will take off the cover and replace. This makes an excellent time to go to a clear clutch cover. The brake lever did flex in and crack my fairing. I have the replacement and ducabike cover but waiting for the heat shield for the fairing. I didn’t order it with the fairing and noticed I needed after I took the cracked one off. This is it hear. Anybody recommend some sliders?

I gotta get some sliders for my 1299, I’m thinking aella cause they’re symmetrical looking vs the CNC racing ones which I believe are not

CNC racing ones are sitting here ready to go on the V4 but I want to install them same time as clear clutch & beauty pieces. How abt the clear clutch with a bumper slider for your bike. The slider is like a kickstand for the right side in case something terrible happens again:

Definitely getting better that bumper slider for my case cover. I think sliders total your bike in a crash and save you in a tip over. I wish the red matched better, I’d go black with a red ring.

I want to go all black

AmpForE said:

I think sliders total your bike in a crash and save you in a tip over

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U been watching too much CycleCruza.

I feel like these bikes are toast in a crash anyway which is why insurance premiums are 5-10x more than my triumph Daytona.

black on black on black looks hot. I like the red ring. Should be an easy job if u have torque wrenches and torque specs. I’ll be installing mine next week

DucatiKev said:

U been watching too much CycleCruza.

I feel like these bikes are toast in a crash anyway which is why insurance premiums are 5-10x more than my triumph Daytona.

black on black on black looks hot. I like the red ring. Should be an easy job if u have torque wrenches and torque specs. I’ll be installing mine next week

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Lol,

I’ve watched a couple of his vids but I didn’t get that from him, trust me. Somehow my torque wrench broke so I will be investing soon. I figure if I installed that rapidbike module I can do this clutch cover. Plus, quite a few how to’s on you tube for the clutch cover to guide me.

After that it’s a air filter and sliders and I’m done with this bike.

endodoc said:

Additionally, there is an internal oil screen filter that sits next to the oil pump that is only accessible by splitting the case. Khmer 1199 and Topolino have both provided sound advice. If you have metallic pieces floating around in your motor that have been circulated and want to be 100% sure that there are zero residual consequences then you pull the motor and tear it down. There really isn’t any other way to eliminate the unknown. Anything other than that and you get into fancy math calculating “what if’s”. I think if you follow the advice above, you will have a high probability of success in fixing the obvious and getting the bike back on the road and if there is something more sinister lurking, you will just have to address it if it presents an issue.

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Lol

Where is Ed