WinterMode V4R Race Bike Project

Steven31371 · Feb 27, 2023

SuperDomestique said:
What’s the point of having a hydraulic preload on your shock if you’re not going to use it. Might as well have castle nuts and simplify things. Adjusting preload can be a quick cheap and easy way to change the bike’s geometry and characteristics. Granted you don’t have much leeway (probably +/- 5 mm) but it’s better than nothing. And it’s more a bandaid to see if a setup should be pursued. At least that’s how I’ve used it in the past and what suspension tuners have told me.

The only reason I have the adjuster that’s on there now is that the one that came with the TTX GP was bulky and extra work to mount with the new subframe.

It came with that remote adjuster, and in a weird design decision you can’t disconnect that remote adjuster from the collar.

As an aside, if I were trying frequent setup changes I’d want the setup it came with over the pneumatic one because it’s easier to adjust than hooking up to the pneumatic one, you just turn a knob

SuperDomestique · Feb 27, 2023

Horses for courses. I rather futz around w preload over buying a bunch extraneous bits or pulling the shock to adjust the length. But then again I’m cheap lazy dolt who can‘t figure out how to mount a seat

RickD996 · Feb 27, 2023

Steven31371 said:
The only reason I have the adjuster that’s on there now is that the one that came with the TTX GP was bulky and extra work to mount with the new subframe.
View attachment 48475

It came with that remote adjuster, and in a weird design decision you can’t disconnect that remote adjuster from the collar.

As an aside, if I were trying frequent setup changes I’d want the setup it came with over the pneumatic one because it’s easier to adjust than hooking up to the pneumatic one, you just turn a knob

The problem with hydraulic preload collars, is they are not linear in their adjustment. Which means, if you turn the adjuster one full turn, you may get no additional preload, or 1.3mm

So, the only way to be sure of what's happening, is to measure the spring when you make an adjustment.
They're, literally, the worst solution to preload adjustment.
The castellated collars are very good, with two benefits:
1. Very light.
2. Very accurate - one turn usually equals one mm preload.

Pneumatic is a good solution:
1. Easier to adjust than castellated collar.
2. Very accurate. One turn equals one mm preload.

andyb · Feb 27, 2023

RickD996 said:
The problem with hydraulic preload collars, is they are not linear in their adjustment. Which means, if you turn the adjuster one full turn, you may get no additional preload, or 1.3mm So, the only way to be sure of what's happening, is to measure the spring when you make an adjustment.
They're, literally, the worst solution to preload adjustment.
The castellated collars are very good, with two benefits:
1. Very light.
2. Very accurate - one turn usually equals one mm preload.

Pneumatic is a good solution:
1. Easier to adjust than castellated collar.
2. Very accurate. One turn equals one mm preload.

Or measure with a ride height tool simples
In fact measure it as you adjust it and watch it change..

RickD996 · Feb 28, 2023

andyb said:
Or measure with a ride height tool simples
In fact measure it as you adjust it and watch it change..

That won't tell you the amount if preload on the spring. That will tell you the ride height

Obviously, there is manufacturing variance in the length (or height), of the spring. So, if you fit a different spring, that will effect your ride height, even though it has different preload.

Paul G · Feb 28, 2023

You guys would argue over free beer long enough for it to turn into warm cats piss, then you'd start arguing over what kind of cat

andyb · Feb 28, 2023

You can measure the sag with the ride height tool and alter it with the pre load on on spring…and include the effect caused by the individual weight and seat position of the different riders
Preload on a spring is just a starting point

SuperDomestique · Feb 28, 2023

I think what Rick is getting at is that with the hydraulic adjuster it’s a bit more complex to get reference numbers. You have to break out a ride height tool to get a baseline. Then once you make an adjustment you have to remeasure. And then if you want to go back to a previous setting you can’t just turn the knob and be back to the original setting. You’ll have to remeasure to confirm. Too complex. Shoot even this pneumatic hullabaloo is seeming to be more of a faff than what I was initially expecting. With the pneumatic one it’s more precise and each turn equates to a reliable reference point.

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