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Yes they are the same! They both use Brake Fluid! Use a high quality DOT 5.1 brake fluid for both Brake and clutch systems.
1199 clutch problem - its official
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Yes they are the same! They both use Brake Fluid! Use a high quality DOT 5.1 brake fluid for both Brake and clutch systems.
I've been having the same/similar issue.
I'm still not convinced it's heat related but.....then again it's hard to tell because winter here is like summer in Europe.
Mine was ok upto the 2nd service (12K) but since. It's happened a couple of times now that, starting from newly replaced clutch fluid it goes black very quickly and over about 3-4000 km I need to start adjusting the travel of the clutch lever to the point where as said above I'm gradually only left with about 5-10 mm where it still bites and needs replacing. On mine atleast there is no return to normal, or improvement from letting the bike cool down. My garage is airconditioned and it makes no difference , clutch travel etc will be the same as when I put it away from the last ride.
Basically the service interval is 12000km but within that window, the clutch fluid needs to be bled and replaced once or twice. I ussually combine it with replacing tires. I asked my dealer to send a mail to Italy which he said he had already. Couple of friends with Pani's are having similar issues, not exactly the same mind. I was told Ducati was aware of it. It's strange though because on this bike with the quick shifter we use the clutch significantly less.
I'm still not convinced it's heat related but.....then again it's hard to tell because winter here is like summer in Europe.
Mine was ok upto the 2nd service (12K) but since. It's happened a couple of times now that, starting from newly replaced clutch fluid it goes black very quickly and over about 3-4000 km I need to start adjusting the travel of the clutch lever to the point where as said above I'm gradually only left with about 5-10 mm where it still bites and needs replacing. On mine atleast there is no return to normal, or improvement from letting the bike cool down. My garage is airconditioned and it makes no difference , clutch travel etc will be the same as when I put it away from the last ride.
Basically the service interval is 12000km but within that window, the clutch fluid needs to be bled and replaced once or twice. I ussually combine it with replacing tires. I asked my dealer to send a mail to Italy which he said he had already. Couple of friends with Pani's are having similar issues, not exactly the same mind. I was told Ducati was aware of it. It's strange though because on this bike with the quick shifter we use the clutch significantly less.
- Joined
- May 14, 2012
- Messages
- 551
- Location
- Philippines
I've been having the same/similar issue.
I'm still not convinced it's heat related but.....then again it's hard to tell because winter here is like summer in Europe.
Mine was ok upto the 2nd service (12K) but since. It's happened a couple of times now that, starting from newly replaced clutch fluid it goes black very quickly and over about 3-4000 km I need to start adjusting the travel of the clutch lever to the point where as said above I'm gradually only left with about 5-10 mm where it still bites and needs replacing. On mine atleast there is no return to normal, or improvement from letting the bike cool down. My garage is airconditioned and it makes no difference , clutch travel etc will be the same as when I put it away from the last ride.
Basically the service interval is 12000km but within that window, the clutch fluid needs to be bled and replaced once or twice. I ussually combine it with replacing tires. I asked my dealer to send a mail to Italy which he said he had already. Couple of friends with Pani's are having similar issues, not exactly the same mind. I was told Ducati was aware of it. It's strange though because on this bike with the quick shifter we use the clutch significantly less.
Definitely not a Temperature (heat or cold) issue...
Its a dirt issue, clutch slave being located right there where the engine sprocket is...grime, flith, salt, water, etc...hits the slave when sprocket spins all these dirt onto it.
Cant be the slave per se as I didnt get any leaks in the first place...My clutch fluid level is always full...it just turns black due to Dirt and time. So its imperative to bleed and remove clutch slave from time to time to clean and regrease...thats it. Its more of a design flaw for me.
If Ducati went for the cable actuated clutch system, this would eliminate historical Ducati clutch slave problems.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2012
- Messages
- 91
- Location
- St Augustine FL
Quick Clutch Bleed
Have had the same reduced clutch engagement problem as described in earlier posts, even with having changed out brake/clutch fluids when they started to darken. Most recently, it happened while attending Code school at Barber MSP. After the first day (5 sessions on track, ~ 85-90 F), clutch engagement had deteriorated to within 1 cm of the grip. Before the start of Day 2, I took the bike to the CSS chief mech, Will, who fitted a foot-long piece of clear tubing to the bleeder bolt on the lever-mounted cylinder (not the slave), cracked open the bolt, and carefully squeezed out a single bubble. Then, he tightened the bolt and, with a few more squeezes on the lever, clutch engagement was back to normal. Whole evolution took about 2 -3 minutes. Hope this helps.
Have had the same reduced clutch engagement problem as described in earlier posts, even with having changed out brake/clutch fluids when they started to darken. Most recently, it happened while attending Code school at Barber MSP. After the first day (5 sessions on track, ~ 85-90 F), clutch engagement had deteriorated to within 1 cm of the grip. Before the start of Day 2, I took the bike to the CSS chief mech, Will, who fitted a foot-long piece of clear tubing to the bleeder bolt on the lever-mounted cylinder (not the slave), cracked open the bolt, and carefully squeezed out a single bubble. Then, he tightened the bolt and, with a few more squeezes on the lever, clutch engagement was back to normal. Whole evolution took about 2 -3 minutes. Hope this helps.
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I swapped in a CNC 28mm slave and outside of having to bleed it due to residual air due to install, I have been more than satisfied.
If you actually look at the OE SC, it's a cast POS. It's made of the cast housing with a plastic plunger and o-ring. I also noticed my o-ring was swollen and tearing. The CNC SC was built with far more care and better components.
If you actually look at the OE SC, it's a cast POS. It's made of the cast housing with a plastic plunger and o-ring. I also noticed my o-ring was swollen and tearing. The CNC SC was built with far more care and better components.
The hydraulic circuit is "closed", there is no way for dirt to get in the circuit unless there is a leak (from the outside to the inside).
Last week took the R in for the 600 mile check and install the Termi's. Got the call the clutch slave was leaking so still waiting for the new one. While ridding never noticed any issues with it. No one asks me anymore why I didn't sell my 1098s, haha.
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
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- 1,320
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- Tacoma, WA
I changed mine to a CNC slave after having to bleed my clutch a few times before the 600 mi service. Other than aesthetics, it's a much cleaner pull and I haven't had to bleed the clutch since and I have about 3K mi now.
I have had this issue for months. At some point both SC and master were replaced by the dealer under warrantee but didnt solve the problem. I periodically do as capnjack52 descirbes in post #65 and that solves the problem temporarily. still , PITA, I wonder if mounting a CNC SC would be covered by the warranty given the the OE is obviously faulty.
btw, I havent noticed any fluid color issues
btw, I havent noticed any fluid color issues
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2011
- Messages
- 1,218
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- Canada
Went to the dealer last month for the turn signal update and mentioned the dragging clutch and the tech said it was only a bleeding issue. Apparently it is extremely hard to get the air out of the system and his technique is to tap the line with a small wrench to get the bubbles out of there. He did it on mine free of charge and it has been fine ever since (3k km).
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2013
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- Los Angeles
Are you guys that have already swapped to the CNC (assuming both of you did the 28mm swap) experiencing any issues getting the bike into neutral? Is it more difficult than before? In stock form, my bike has issues getting it into neutral at times. Sometimes it slips into it easy as hell and other times I'm shifting from 1st to 2nd to 1st multiple times before I can finally get it. Just wondering if this mod, while making clutch pull easier, make getting into neutral more difficult. Considering the CNC Coat of Arms 28mm myself if it helps with clutch pull and not impacting getting the bike into neutral.
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It's not. But, perhaps dependent on your relationship with your dealer. I think the CNC is much better than OEM as far as quakity and clutch feel goes. Very precise. My clutch fluid still turns dark though.
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- Tacoma, WA
No problems with neutral after about 50 miles after delivery. Before then the gear box was a little "twitchy." I have the CNC COA 28mm and the pull is easier than OEM, and same release point every time. Really nice. Before I switched, I bled the master and also had to change the fluid twice before the 600 mi service. I don't think the clutch slave will have anything to do with issues getting it into neutral though. Like the motor, I think this gear box is fantastic.
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Reduction in clutch lever pull force will usually come at the penalty of needing a longer clutch lever pull to get full disengagement. Going to too large a diameter causes problems disengaging the clutch, with resulting problems with wear and engaging neutral at a stop. That's why I asked. I'm not exactly sure what the OEM is (22mm maybe?)
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I am aware of the potential problems. I'm saying I have no problem with 28mm. I think stock is 24 or 25mm, I read it somewhere, but can't find it.
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I don't think it comes in blue, but you can powder coat it I guess or PM GunnyFitz perhaps. Resistance is futile
Bellissimoto
SoloMoto
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I don't think it comes in blue, but you can powder coat it I guess or PM GunnyFitz perhaps. Resistance is futile
Bellissimoto
SoloMoto
Oh I'm aware it doesn't come in blue. I've got a longggggggggggg list of CNC Racing parts I'm ordering to have them custom anodize it in the exact blue they offer some of their other parts in for an extra fee. Things we do for the visual appeal of our bikes. It's like burning money.
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