1199 Not Charging

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Trackjunkie01

Trackjunkie01

Joined
Apr 22, 2017
Messages
40
Location
NC
Riding my 1199 today, 30 miles from home it flashed a "Battery" warning and engine light on the panel, and then the ABS light comes on a few minutes later. Then after 10 min the panel starts to blink and go dim. Fortunately I was able to get it back home and recharge the battery, but after charging I checked to voltage across the terminals and it's only reading 12.52 indicating it may be the stator assembly.....is there any other way to diagnose this issue to be sure before spending the money on a stator? Thanks guys
 
rrgermanlv said:
It might just be the battery not holding the charge because it's done! - I would start there first....
Click to expand...

I was thinking that, but even if the battery was shot, wouldn't my multimeter show a charge across the terminals if the stator was producing?
 
So after a little more troubleshooting, I checked the voltage from the stator to the voltage regulator and found consistent voltage across all 3 pins;; 29.1 V. The output from the VR is 14.96-15.0v but voltage across the battery is only 12.3 v when running.....now I'm really confused.......
 
Obviously there is an open circuit between the regulator and the battery or very high resistance, (faulty connection)
 
Either open circuit or bad connection as suggested above.

Or

The battery is pulling too much current dragging the voltage down, disconnect the battery from the bike and with jumper cables go from the cables to another known working battery example car.

*Take car battery out of car or don't turn car on

Check voltage again
 
zkjad said:
Obviously there is an open circuit between the regulator and the battery or very high resistance, (faulty connection)
Click to expand...

After further testing according to the link from Halo, all 3 stator leads produce .3 ohms of resistance (he link suggests I should have maximum (open) resistance), but the stator is still producing upwards of 30V measuring across the same leads.....
 
Read it again

This time each of these should measure almost short circuit (very low resistance in order or about 1 ohm)

Its because its wired in star, it should be open circuit to ground as written.
 
I believe you have loose wire. Use voltmeter and measure between the VR and negative terminal on the battery, If you see 14-15V, most likely there is loose positive wire. Then try measuring the positive terminal on the battery and chassis ground. Any point on the engine should give you ground connection.
 
Halo2 said:
Read it again

This time each of these should measure almost short circuit (very low resistance in order or about 1 ohm)

Its because its wired in star, it should be open circuit to ground as written.
Click to expand...

Yes, this is true when checking continuity; however my concern is the statement below

This next check is probably the simplest/quickest way of determining a stator problem
- in majority of cases a bad stator will be indicated by failing following test:
Check resistance from any one pin to the engine ground terminal - this should not read any indication - maximum resistance or open-circuit.
If you read "˜short' in that last test, then your stator is bad.[/I]
(if open, it is not quite guaranteed your stator is good however - but in majority of cases a failed stator will fail this isolation test)

This is where I'm getting .3 ohms (but still getting ~30v at the RR)
 
The fact your not blowing fuses and getting voltage from each phase suggests false reading. Are you using a fluke?

[youtube]5v2LtHlvcqI[/youtube]
 
Last edited:
ignore all the stator replies, you have got good voltage at the phase lead outputs, ignore the battery replies, it won't be pulling the voltage down that much. Is there battery voltage at regulator with engine off?? If no, then find the open circuit from battery.
 
zkjad said:
ignore all the stator replies, you have got good voltage at the phase lead outputs, ignore the battery replies, it won't be pulling the voltage down that much. Is there battery voltage at regulator with engine off?? If no, then find the open circuit from battery.
Click to expand...

I'm becoming more convinced the stator is the issue. Double checking the integrity of the stator indicates it's faulty. I'm no electrical guru, but I am getting good voltage to the RR but the stator is grounding out to the engine based on my electrical test (thus no voltage across battery )

Getting .3 ohms of resistance from the stator leads to the negative battery terminal indicates bad insulation or some other issue.
 
You need to isolate the stator from the bike to test it properly or you could get a false ground, when you checked the stator for continuity to ground did you have ALL 3 wires disconnected from the bike?

As a sparky I would doubt the stator they should last as long as a starter motor (very long). I did 90,000kms on my r1 and besides oil/filter only had to replace clutch plates.
 
I haven't removed the stator from the bike. But I have checked all three stator leads to ground and they are giving me the same reading (.3 ohms) indicating a short. Ricks Motorsports Electrical here in the US has a video I used to double check I was doing this properly and he didn't remove or isolate the stator. I really hate to pull the cover unless necessary, but it's looking like that's not going to be an option at this point.
 
Are u sure you are getting 30 volts AC at the stator leads unplugged, if the stator was shorted to ground, the voltage may be 3 or .3 volts AC, check your meter scale.

Mmmmm, but you did say you were getting 14 / 15 volts DC at the regulator output terminals, so that would indicate stator OK.

Recheck and advise.

Retired auto electrician.
 
Last edited:

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